It was love at first sight. I think TchoukyDoudy was pleased to see us but it's so difficult to tell. Until they are under sail, yachts are asleep and give little away.
The next hour was given over to safety briefings for Phil and Clive whilst Rosie and I victualled TchoukyDoudy.
There were only nine boats in our flotilla, including the lead boat Aerial, with the it's crew - skipper Max, engineer Callum and hostess Emily aboard.
Then at 4.20 p.m. it was time to sail and nothing can quite describe the sensation one hour later of hoisting your sails, turning the engine off and feeling the power of the wind drive you forward at 6.5 knots. We zipped across the sea with just the sound of the wind in our sails and the water rushing past our hull. It was a moment of pure magic. The welcome breeze washed over us and all the anxiety of travel disappeared. Greece was all around us: the mainland in different shades of ochre and ahead, soft, hazy islands.
Our first port of call was the small village and harbour of Palairos, sitting under the high mountains. It is an impressive setting and all in all a convivial corner of the Inland Sea. Aerial had sped ahead to guide us and, circling like sharks, we waited to be called in over VHF radio. It was team effort, Phil at the wheel, Clive on the anchor, and Rosie and I dashing about with fenders. We were to discover that arriving too late in the afternoon meant that the best anchorages had been snapped up but, once settled, it was entertaining watching other yachts getting into a muddle trying to anchor with Max, the skipper from Aerial, buzzing about in his souped-up dinghy giving instructions where needed. Once safely anchored we enjoyed a refreshing swim.
We settled in for our first night on TchoukyDoudy.
Every morning the lead crew would brief us before breakfast in a local Taverna. So, after a swim to look once again for the outboard kill cord, which we didn't find, Max came over with a spare one so we could attend the briefing. Tuesday's leg was to take us due south to Kalamos. We upped anchor at 10.30 a.m. and by 12.30 p.m. we were sailing in 18 knots of wind. The first time the wind filled the sails and the boat heeled over, Rosie screamed in fright and pots and pans clattered down below. But for Phil this is unadulterated sailing bliss, with the speedo occasionally nudging 7 knots. Our trip took us passed Ak Aspro Yiali, a cape on the north end of Kalamos. Here we anchored for lunch and a swim. The water was a wonderful turquoise and cobalt and the rocks and cliffs are eroded into fantastic shapes, and the whole area is thick with green pine. We left at 3.45 p.m. and arrived at Port Kalamos at 5 p.m. Max was waiting for us on the quay and the lead boat had moored side-too. We were to raft up for the night. We were boat 3 in a line of 5. Ropes were coiled, decks and salty bodies washed down (hot showers on boat or ashore). Out came the chilled champagne, olives and crisps in the hot evening sunshine. Every port bought new neighbours to meet and stories to swap, this time at a G and T get together, before we sauntered over to Georges, the Taverna, for dinner.
At Kalamos the slopes drop mostly sheer into the sea and this can create windy conditions. We woke to discover the wind was gusting at 32 knots. After lengthy discussions with Max and Rachel, a Sunsail skipper rafted on our outside, we decided to wait until the winds abated. We spent an interesting hour watching some boats leave, quite frankly some in a chaotic and dangerous manner. A reminder of the power of nature.
But at 10.55 a.m. it was our turn to be brave. With the lead crew's help, including Callum in the dingy pushing on our bow, we managed to spring off in reverse, watched over by a very nervous Frenchman moored next to us. But by 11.15 a.m. it was plain sailing. Nothing can quite describe the sensation of hoisting your sails, turning the engine off and feeling the power of the wind drive you forward.
We anchored for lunch at 1.30 p.m. at One House Bay, with a little beach at the head of the bay and a single house on the shore, used occasionally by a fisherman and his family. Phil decided to put a long line ashore because we were anchored off some rocks with a slight swell. He tied two ropes together with a sheet bend which Clive then rowed to a rock. At 3 p.m. it was time to head for big Vathi.
We tuned the boat's radio to channel 10. "Aerial, Aerial, Aerial, this is TchoukyDoudy," we said into the handset. There's was bit of static then a crackle.
"TchoukyDoudy, we have a space for you," came the reply.
Every time we arrived at a harbour, there was the usual pantomime of lowering the anchor and slowly reversing in, watched by dozens of critical eyes. We were to moor stern to with a long run in. We guided our boat into the space in front of the restaurant and put our gangplank onto shore. It landed less than a metre from one of the tables. Max seemed to be pleased with our performance.
Vathi means 'deep'. The proper name of the town is actually Ithaca.
I fell in love with Ithaca about 30 years ago when Alun, my son, at the age of 10, came across the Odyssey, still one of the greatest stories ever told. It's got everything:- Cyclops and lotus eaters and Circe turning sailors into swine. It's a fantastic adventure, a quest, an affirmation of life - and it all ends in Ithaca where Odysseus finally returns home. I loved the bit where he murdered all 'the suitors', a motley crew who were trying to marry his wife. Penelope. Even more memorable was when he carried an oar into the hills, "to the land that knows nothing of the sea". This was the symbolic end of his travels, the end of adventure. He had found peace.
I've always wanted to come here but I was worried I'd be disappointed. After all, most of the island was destroyed in the earthquake of 1953 and there are hardly any buildings left from before that time. Would we be arriving in the Greek equivalent of, say, Milton Keynes? Would any of the ancient magic be left?
But, yes, I loved it here. Ithaca symbolises the return to the haven, the discovery and the fulfilment. Sailing is a lifestyle that's very easy to fall into and very hard to drag yourself out of again. There's enough variety, enough activity, enough relaxation and enough simplicity in the lives of sailors. I can see why people would do it for weeks or months on end over the summer. And where else do you sail into town and park your accommodation a metre away from a cocktail.
We also saw the mega-yachts here, full of celebs and the super rich, which are hated by the locals because they dock in the harbours but the occupants never leave the boat to spend any money and support the local economy.
Thursday is our free sailing day. There is no strict itinerary, we are on our own. We feel surprisingly confident after thorough briefings with Max and it was comforting to know that the crew was never far away and on 24 hour call. We are so lucky to have Phil as our skipper though. So knowledgeable. We departed Vathi at 10.05 a.m. Unfortunately, there wasn't a whisper of wind, not a sausage, not even a scintilla so we motored to Ammousa for a long lunch and a swim. We left at 4 p.m. when the wind had picked up and sailed in a Westerly Force 4 to Sivota.
You know what they say, 'any port in a storm'. It seems the opposite is true here too. 'any port because they're all as beautiful as each other'. We were so pleased we had chosen Sivota though. You can't beat the welcome from Yannis. Yannis welcomes you with his lazy-lines and provides showers/water/power f.o.c. to his customers. A wonderful family run place with the little black grandmother watching over everyone. Lovely home cooked food too. Thank you Yannis.
Sivota is a wonderful spot, the slopes around are planted with olive trees and the old houses of the hamlet are clustered around the water. Many are restaurants with enormous terracotta pots of purple bougainvillea, heaped high and cascading over the sides in an extravagant overflow, the beauty of the place delighted us. As did the Sivota Bakery for breakfast. Excellent breakfast with service to match and a great view. Bellys full of pancakes we departed at 10.15 a.m.
Sivota was "Dorpfeld's choice for the landing place of Odysseus and he identified Evgiros to the West of Sivota as the cave of the nymps. The caves also feature in Hammond Innes' thriller Levkas Man. So we left Sivota and saw the caves, then sailed down the Meganisi channel. Beautiful vistas. The channel, half a mile wide at the narrowest point, passes between the high slopes and cliffs of Levkas with a number of ravines cutting down to the sea; and on the other side, the lower slopes of Meganisi with a long sandy beach fringing much of it. We anchored just off Nisis Thilia, a small wooded islet for lunch.
The wind in this channel is fickle. What usually happens is that it blows from the N to NW at the N end of the channel and from the S to SW at the S end. In the middle there is often a flat spot with no wind or light winds from either direction. It can be disconcerting to be running down the channel with the wind aft of the beam and to see a yacht coming in the opposite direction also with the wind aft of the beam.
The sun shines down fiercely for the whole week, Phil's red back is still a reminder, so we all decide to stop for a swim at 3 p.m. just outside of Port Atheni. The nights fall late in Greece this time of year but most of the boats make for a mooring by late afternoon. It means there are still a few hours of daylight to enjoy a drink and wait to watch the sun set over the waters. It also guarantees a spot for the night. Some of the smaller harbours are quite popular and can get full by late afternoon but for us it's never a problem - the lead boat has raced ahead and Max will have organised a mooring for us.
We decided not to rush and watched our flotilla enter the harbour. This was to be our last port of call before heading back to the Lefkas Marina. Clive upon returning to the UK was going to do a Day Skipper course so we sat back and mulled over what we had learned over the past few days. We had absorbed a blizzard of technical terms, and wave after wave of instructions from Phil and Max. We had learned about halyards and sheets, genoas and reefing, fenders and kickers, booms and buoys. We had learnt how to sail into the wind, across the wind and with the wind. We had mastered knots, including the bowline, the sheet bend and, my favourite, the clove hitch. We had learned how to set a course, how to tack with the wind and how to tell if you are on a collision course with another vessel and what to do about it. We were now docking the boat like pros and automatically coiling ropes without being told. I hope Phil thinks we are now competent crew members. Thanks Phil for your expert tuition.
Our trip had taken us into tiny harbours and secluded little bays, only accessible by boat, for a swim and lunch.
We had seen landscapes of sublime beauty.
And curiously, that in this vast and beautiful expanse of ocean, with no living creatures around except for the odd goat, we had a decent 4G phone signal which meant we were able to keep in touch with the family back in the UK.
And then Max was ready for us in Port Atheni at 5 p.m. A pleasant spot where we moored up right outside the Taverna. However, because we were one of the last boats to arrive the best moorings had once again been snapped up - our stop was worryingly shallow but with Max's welcoming hands and ever patient guidance we managed it. We then spent the next half an hour putting our gangplank onto shore. Max didn't think we could do it but we did. Another group meal with, hopefully, Greek dancing but in the end the group was just too tired!!!!!!
And so to our last day on TchoukyDoudy. We departed at 10.05 a.m. after a delicious English breakfast cooked by Rosie.
Our last stop was at Varko Bay, where we stayed for a couple of hours for lunch and a final swim before leaving to refuel. We moored up at Lefkas Marina at 4.30 p.m. and tried not to think about packing.
The week culminated in a prize giving. A merry mood prevailed as each boat was awarded a prize - ours - The coolest customers - Phil was very pleased with this as Max said we arrived in port and left port without sparks flying!!! Then it was time to bring forth the boats made out of recycled material to be judged. Our "pirate ship" took first prize.
What a wonderful week. The days spent travelling between ports - not because the next one is any better or even particularly different, but because the wind in your hair is activity enough in these parts.
Then it was time for dinner and we found a fabulous restaurant. Ey Zhn in Lefkada Town. Possibly the best overall dining experience for the whole week. The menu a little more varied and interesting than in most tavernas. Can highly recommend the Tuna steak in Cajun seasoning.
The next morning we had to say a fond farewell to TchoukyDoudy. Our flight wasn't until late evening so we spent a leisurely day by the pool at the hotel on the Marina and enjoyed a lovely lunch at Margarita in a lovely location by the Marina and with a nice atmosphere and delicious food.
Another fabulous holiday experience with Clive and Rosie - you are great company.
Oh and pleased to announce Clive is now a qualified Day Skipper.
One day I hope to return and next time I'll carry an oar.
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