Invincibles trip to Parham House

 The Invincibles enjoyed a delightful and informative trip to Parham House last week.  Both the house and gardens are magnificent and the owners do their very best to make one's visit enjoyable.  The gardens were in full bloom and quite stunning.  The house which remains in private hands is exceptionally well maintained, furnished and has 400 + paintings which are set around the house, its also famous for its collection of English clocks.  The collection includes exceptional 17th and 18th century antique longcases and bracket clocks, highlighted by the exterior clock tower.    Our guide was excellent and the lunch was very enjoyable.

The first stone of the current house was laid in 1577 by one Thomas Palmer who was two and a half years old at the time.

In 1601, Parham was sold to the Bisshopp family for what must have been the huge sum of £4,500.  It was to stay in the ownership of various descendants of Thomas Bisshopp until it was sold to the Hon. Clive Pearson for £200,000 in 1922 whose great-granddaughter, Lady Emma Barnard, still lives at Parham today.  Clive Pearson and his wife Alicia duly set about substantial renovation works, including restoring many of the original features and enthusiastically collecting furniture and antiques that had an association with the house.  Despite having been requisitioned during WW11, the house finally opened to the public in 1948 and these days is a monument to all the hard work of the Pearsons.

From the entrance, you mount a modest flight of stairs and make your way to the Great Hall, as the first of the main rooms visited.  The hall is stunning, feels regal and takes you quite by surprise.  Facing the South Downs with ceiling height windows and full of light, it has a huge and original fireplace and is surrounded by carved oak Tudor screens bedecked in portraits.  17th century buckets, 18th century riding boots and a beautiful long case clock mingle with long benches, Jacobean chairs, Tudor Chests, a carved chandelier and  works depicting James I, Edward VI, Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales (painted in 1611) amongst others.  This gives one the first full indication of the depth of this collection and is a room that simply echoes with its own sense of history.

From the Great Hall, a tour of the house took us through a series of deliciously opulent but elegant rooms.  The  Great Parlour, another panelled room, also drips with portraits, coats of arms and crests from families connected to the house as well as beautiful tapestry work, carpets and lacquer chests.  With  more views south across the Downs, there's an 18th century Chinese cistern in the window filled with potpourri, and a welcoming feel to this room.  It's grand, it's ornate but it also somehow feels warm and intimate.

The West Room is intriguing.  It's were you'll find 16th century Italian wool wall hangings, a rare Armenian carpet, an unusual shaped 18th century games tables, a period barometer and longcase clock, a Ming vase and more portraits.

The Salon has to be one of my favourite rooms for its sheer elegance and quiet sense of style.  With light streaming in from the side windows that overlook the parklands, it shows off a gilded dinner service, a harp, beautiful furniture and a Queen Anne walnut window seat.  One can quite imagine some genteel entertaining here, with ladies gathered around the fire and the gentlemen enjoying a recital as they stand by the bookcase.

And whilst the Green Room is primarily about the great botanist Sir Joseph Banks, I was particularly captivated by the portrait of Omiahm, an Oteheitan chief who came to England with Captain Cook.

Forgive me if I glide past some of the other rooms, such as the Great Chamber, the staircase, landing and lobby but I'm excited about showing you the Long Gallery.  It's surely Parham's piece de resistance and at 48 metres long (yes 48 metres), it is the third-longest room in a private house in England.  The ceiling was designed by Oliver Messel.  You just have to work your way carefully down one long side and back the other, pausing only to visit some of the alcoves.  You can't but help imaging a group of young men and women promenading and dancing here.

After a delicious lunch we walked through the impressive quadrant at the front of the house, along with the sculpture of the River God, then down a long path to the walled garden.

Entering through a pair of iron gates guarded by two stone lions, the Walled Garden's loveliness took us by surprise.

The borders and beds have been developed into an abundance of colour.  In the 1940s, Alice Pearson insisted on having flowers all through the House for the enjoyment of visitors.  They still follow this tradition.  No flowers are ever bought, and the  arrangement, done 'the Parham way', harmonise with the colours in the rooms.

As you explore you're offered up views of the Dovecote and you can discover all sorts of hidden treasures like the Carrara marble statue of a dying soldier which dates back to the mid 19th century.

I think we can all agree we had a lovely day at Parham House.

 

Isle of Wight Ultra Challenge

The Isle of Wight Ultra Challenge is an ultra-walking/running race organised by Ultra Challenge for charities.  The route circumnavigates the entire island, beginning and ending in Chale, and is approximately 107 km.

The route is spectacular and the majority of it runs along the coast with white cliffs, beaches, woodland and everything in between.  The climb up to and along the "Needles", on the west side of the island is especially awesome!  Phil plotting her route.

Caroline, our daughter, was walking this Challenge over the Bank Holiday weekend,  with two friends, Liz and Kate, and fundraising for her chosen charity,  Alzheimers.  Caroline decided to take on this challenge because Alzheimer's is a cause very close to her heart as three of her grandparents suffered from it.  We need better treatments and, eventually, a cure.  On the first day she set off at 8 a.m.

The route is along the spectacular southern cliffs, past the Needles, and up to historic Cowes, then on to Ventnor and back to the welcome basecamp in Chale after an epic journey over two days. 

Family and friends were their support group.  We caught the ferry from Lymington to Yarmouth to join them and we were the first car to be loaded.

There is a halfway aid station, at around 55km where the walkers can get a cooked meal.  Lots of tables and chairs, massive gazebos and lots of loos.

The first day results:-

And she set off again at 6 am the next morning!!!

At the last major aid station to the finish, Caroline's legs were feeling heavy and her feet sore.  Climbing 1,756 m with climbing and descending occurring frequently along the majority of the course, which made it tough going.  Resting those tired feet.

In Caroline's words " It really was tough - physically and mentally - and emotions and blisters definitely bubbled up but it was so worth it knowing we were supporting three brilliant charities".

Final Result

You did it.  Fantastic achievement.   Can't imagine what your feet are like.  Mine would be shredded.  Congratulations Liz, Kate and Caroline.

What a beautiful place to do an Epic Challenge. So proud of your achievement Caroline.  You can return home feeling a terrific sense of achievement, both for having completed this challenge, and for having managed to raise the astonishing sum of over £2,000!!  And all thanks entirely to your amazingly wonderful and generous donors and supporters - Caroline  says thank you SO SO MUCH!

To support Caroline we spent the holiday weekend at the Woodvale Hotel in Gurnard.  First of all the setting is great - it has wonderful views over the Solent and the staff were very friendly.  Breakfast was outstanding and a special mention to the very professional Chef who came in very early on Bank Holiday Monday to cook breakfast for us at 7 a.m. because one of the Ferries had broken down and our booking was changed to 9 a.m.  Thank you, much appreciated.

We also enjoyed walking before dinner from just outside the hotel to Cowes, it is about a mile.  So very lucky to watch the Iona sail for Norway with my brother Stuart, and Tina on board.

And whilst Caroline and friends were walking on Sunday we treated ourselves to a great lazy afternoon at the Isle of Wight Braii, Brading. PO36 0JG.  Braai is a seasonal restaurant in a working farm which showcases 'farm to fork' cuisine with an enormous BBQs for the cooking.  Run by two ladies in conjunction with the local landowner at Nunwell House and supported by locally sourced produce, including beer, and an array of vegetables.  Can definitely recommend the crackin' chicken and the lucious lamb.

A refreshingly different dining experience with very tender and beautifully cooked flavoursome meat and chicken set  in beautiful countryside. 

What a wonderful weekend on the Isle of Wight supporting our daughter whist enjoying a perfect mix of stunning coastal scenery and culinary delights, just a short hop from the mainland.  Last view of Isle of Wight.

Punch Bowl in Valley Gardens, Virginia Water.

Last week we walked to the very beautiful Punch Bowl in Valley Gardens, Virginia Water which is in Windsor Great Park.  Valley Gardens can be found on the North shores of Virginia Water Lake and at Springtime in particular the Punch Bowel is truly stunning with vibrant colours which are just beautiful to see.

The Punch Bowel is a feature at this time of year as it contains a magnificent collection of rhododendrons and azaleas.  It can be accessed from two good car parks both off the A30 London Road.  We parked at the Blacknest Car Park and walked round the lake in a clockwise direction.  We prefer this route with more views to see before viewing the main scene and looking up at the wonderful colours.

 

Unforgettable Perigord

The Dordogne, and more specifically the Perigord, is famous for its breathtaking scenery, castles and medieval villages.  But to take advantage of all the Perigord has to offer we signed up for a theme week.  It is not difficult to coax us British to the Dordogne in southwest France - the English fought the French over this glorious rural idyll until the end of the Hundred Years War (1453) for goodness sake.

We were met at Bergerac airport by our coach driver for the week and transferred to HPB Constant, stopping en route at a supermarket to stock up on supplies (wine!).

Our cottage (Cheers)!    

An excellent welcome dinner was organised at restaurant Le Saint Felix where we met Marie-Line, our guide for the week, and the other lovely members of the group.  It was a perfect local restaurant with great service and food in a rustic french setting.  What a start to the week.

The next morning we set off early for a Gabare trip on the Dordogne.

En route we stopped briefly to look at a Pigeonnier.  The countryside of France is dotted with pigeonniers, or dovecotes.  The use of pigeonniers arrived in France with the Romans, but the oldest examples still in existence are from the fourteenth century.  The advantages of keeping a dovecote were twofold - firstly, to provide animal protein in a diet largely made up of cereals, and secondly, to collect the droppings as fertiliser for all sorts of crops.  The second use was probably more important than the first.  Until the fourteenth century, anybody could own a pigeonnier, but after that their possession was restricted.  Only landed gentry could have a free-standing one and its size depended on the amount of land he owned. There was tension with tenant farmers when vast flocks of pigeons owned by the local lord would descend on their crops and strip them bare.  After the Revolution, the monopoly on ownership of pigeonniers was removed, but owners were required to provide feed for their pigeons in the dovecote itself.

The Gabares are to Perigord what gondolas are to Venice.  These boats were once used by merchants to transport their goods from one town to another, and have played a key role in the region's economic development.  The name "gabare" refers to a flat-bottomed boat, a special feature that enables it  to carry heavy loads.  These boats were particularly used in the 18th century to bring lumber to the royal arsenals.  As the Perigord region is a major wine producer, gabares were also used to transport barrels of wine.  Once called the "River of Hope" by 19th century boatmen, the Dordogne has now been converted into a boating route offering breathtaking views of castles in perfect harmony with nature.

It was a lovely trip along the Dordogne river from La Roque Gageac to Beynac which lasted approximately 50 mins.  It was great to be able to see the cliff dwellings and village from slightly further back. 

Then lunch by an amazing fortress at Restaurante Le Donjon.  Tres bon, plats excellent.

The coach then followed the river to Chateau des Milandes.

Built in 1489, the stunning Chateau des Milandes in the heart of the Black Perigord on the south bank of the Dordogne became home to the black American singer and dancer Josephine Baker.  Baker had become the toast of the Parisian cabaret scene in the '20s, being one of the most famous and highly paid entertainers of her day.  A French citizen by marriage.

The Chateau was called "Sleeping Beauty Castle" in 1937 when Josephine Baker first looked at the Chateau, so it comes as no surprise that she rented then purchased the Chateau in 1947.

A visit to the Chateau is like a journey through the genius of Josephine Baker, who lived with her husband, Joe Bouillon and their twelve children, adopted from all over the world.  Through the fourteen fully furnished rooms you can see the famous "banana belt" and the magnificent costumes of Josephine's stage performances.  Not forgetting the very "diva" bathrooms that were designed just for her, one of which has gold leaf around the ceiling.

What is not commonly known is that Josephine worked extensively in the French Resistance and she was awarded various medals, one of which was the Legion of  Honour.  She was a passionate campaigner for human rights walking alongside Martin Luther King.

Another highlight of the visit was the birds of prey demonstrations held in the garden at the rear of the Chateau.  A magnificent falcon flew around our heads several times before he got his treat.  Wonderful, and an Eagle Owl always seemed to be looking at me.

The Chateau des Milandes is a magical place, a magnificent tribute to an exceptional woman.  

Day 3. Today  we were driven through the beautiful Lisle valley to Chateau du Fratteau in Neuvic. a medieval fortress partly dismantled during the Revolution.  The owner has been restoring it for the last 40 years.  We entered via the unique underground refuge and saw the different rooms with authentic furniture from Perigord and the medieval kitchen.  Kudos to the owners for the enormous amount of renovating from a ruin.

  

After a delicious lunch at Le Kayola we visited a Walnut Mill, Moulin de la Veyssiers, with origins in the 13th century.  It is the last active mill in the Vern valley.  A place steeped in history.  After a tour we got to taste the oil, which we had watched being made using traditional methods on machines hundreds of years old.

 Day 4.  We set off late this morning for a visit to an organic bakery, Fournil de Montclard in St. Georges de Moutclard.  Richard is a farmer - baker.  He grows his own grains, grinds them into flour and then transforms them into delicious organic bread.

Marie-Line then took us to one of her favourite local hamlets, Altair, to meet local producers and to see how they made use of the surrounding land.  After a walk looking at the Organic Aromatic and Medicinal Plants we were treated to the most delicious lunch at the farmhouse where most of the produce came from the garden.

Day 5.  So exciting.  Marie-Line had organised light aircraft trips for us.  We flew over this beautiful area for an unforgettable view of the Dordogne and Constant.

Once our feet were firmly back on the ground Marie-Line took us to a local traditional vineyard, Chateau Grande Maison, Monbazillac for a wine tasting and cold buffet.  We were treated to a three-wine tasting experience with white, red and dessert wines.  A good amount of wine from six bottles!!    A pretty castle in the middle of vineyards and a tour of the production process.  Sublime day.

Day 6.  Most know about the prehistoric paintings at Lascaux Caves, but I'd not heard of the Rouffignac Caves, which we visited today.  This is the entrance to the caves.

You go deep inside the caves here on an electric train and can see the original Palaeolithic artwork in situ.  These are not paintings but black monochromatic line drawings, using pieces of manganese dioxide.  The artists would have had to do a Michelangelo and lie on their backs to paint some of the works.  (The floor has now been lowered).  There are some rock carvings too, using flint chisels or bones.  Occasionally, if the rock was soft enough, they could even use their finger nails.

We could easily make out distinct details like the animals' eyes, the long shaggy mammoth coats and the curled horns of the ibex.  One very interesting drawing of a mammoth showed its anal flap.  Sorry no photo of that one.  Yes, this is a flap that covers the mammoth's anus to keep it warm.  Only someone who had very close contact with a mammoth would know about this detail.  This fact was used to help authenticate these drawings, as they were thought to be modern fakes when they were first discovered.

Why would people go to such extraordinary trouble?  Were they religious symbols?  Offerings to a god or gods? Or was it simply art for art's sake?  No-one really knows.

All we really know for sure is that they belong  to the Palaeolithic period and were done about 13,000 years ago.

We could also see great gouges and scratches on the cave walls.  They think these were made by bears.  There were also some shallow pits or hollows at the sides where they think large hibernating bear-like creatures slept.

The Grotte de Rouffignac is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  No photographs allowed, so these are from postcards.

                                        

After our visit we enjoyed a farewell lunch together in an unusual rustic setting.  On our way to the restaurant we passed several buildings that were built right into the cliffs and very close to the road.

  The road also had a lot of overhanging rocks. 

Restaurant Laugerie Basse.  A troglodyte restaurant in Les Eyzies.  The setting is worth the visit.  We sat on the terrace under an arbor with an exceptional view over the valley.

After lunch we went for a stroll in the medieval village of Limeuil, a pretty medieval village with an interesting past and a view down over the Vezere and Dordogne Rivers.

Day 7.  A free day to enjoy the excellent on site facilities at Constant, in glorious sunshine, followed by our last meal together as a group.  Beautiful sunset.  The end to a fabulous holiday.

Thank you Marie-Line for organising this theme week - for your knowledge, friendliness and humour.    Marie-Line Cope is a local French guide and put together the above programme.  Which was much appreciated by us all.  

And thank you David and Louise, Jon and Clare, Brian and Sue, Sue and Pam for your excellent company.  We enjoyed every moment.

Thanks also to our excellent drivers, Christian and David.

A very enjoyable Theme week.