Unforgettable Perigord

The Dordogne, and more specifically the Perigord, is famous for its breathtaking scenery, castles and medieval villages.  But to take advantage of all the Perigord has to offer we signed up for a theme week.  It is not difficult to coax us British to the Dordogne in southwest France - the English fought the French over this glorious rural idyll until the end of the Hundred Years War (1453) for goodness sake.

We were met at Bergerac airport by our coach driver for the week and transferred to HPB Constant, stopping en route at a supermarket to stock up on supplies (wine!).

Our cottage (Cheers)!    

An excellent welcome dinner was organised at restaurant Le Saint Felix where we met Marie-Line, our guide for the week, and the other lovely members of the group.  It was a perfect local restaurant with great service and food in a rustic french setting.  What a start to the week.

The next morning we set off early for a Gabare trip on the Dordogne.

En route we stopped briefly to look at a Pigeonnier.  The countryside of France is dotted with pigeonniers, or dovecotes.  The use of pigeonniers arrived in France with the Romans, but the oldest examples still in existence are from the fourteenth century.  The advantages of keeping a dovecote were twofold - firstly, to provide animal protein in a diet largely made up of cereals, and secondly, to collect the droppings as fertiliser for all sorts of crops.  The second use was probably more important than the first.  Until the fourteenth century, anybody could own a pigeonnier, but after that their possession was restricted.  Only landed gentry could have a free-standing one and its size depended on the amount of land he owned. There was tension with tenant farmers when vast flocks of pigeons owned by the local lord would descend on their crops and strip them bare.  After the Revolution, the monopoly on ownership of pigeonniers was removed, but owners were required to provide feed for their pigeons in the dovecote itself.

The Gabares are to Perigord what gondolas are to Venice.  These boats were once used by merchants to transport their goods from one town to another, and have played a key role in the region's economic development.  The name "gabare" refers to a flat-bottomed boat, a special feature that enables it  to carry heavy loads.  These boats were particularly used in the 18th century to bring lumber to the royal arsenals.  As the Perigord region is a major wine producer, gabares were also used to transport barrels of wine.  Once called the "River of Hope" by 19th century boatmen, the Dordogne has now been converted into a boating route offering breathtaking views of castles in perfect harmony with nature.

It was a lovely trip along the Dordogne river from La Roque Gageac to Beynac which lasted approximately 50 mins.  It was great to be able to see the cliff dwellings and village from slightly further back. 

Then lunch by an amazing fortress at Restaurante Le Donjon.  Tres bon, plats excellent.

The coach then followed the river to Chateau des Milandes.

Built in 1489, the stunning Chateau des Milandes in the heart of the Black Perigord on the south bank of the Dordogne became home to the black American singer and dancer Josephine Baker.  Baker had become the toast of the Parisian cabaret scene in the '20s, being one of the most famous and highly paid entertainers of her day.  A French citizen by marriage.

The Chateau was called "Sleeping Beauty Castle" in 1937 when Josephine Baker first looked at the Chateau, so it comes as no surprise that she rented then purchased the Chateau in 1947.

A visit to the Chateau is like a journey through the genius of Josephine Baker, who lived with her husband, Joe Bouillon and their twelve children, adopted from all over the world.  Through the fourteen fully furnished rooms you can see the famous "banana belt" and the magnificent costumes of Josephine's stage performances.  Not forgetting the very "diva" bathrooms that were designed just for her, one of which has gold leaf around the ceiling.

What is not commonly known is that Josephine worked extensively in the French Resistance and she was awarded various medals, one of which was the Legion of  Honour.  She was a passionate campaigner for human rights walking alongside Martin Luther King.

Another highlight of the visit was the birds of prey demonstrations held in the garden at the rear of the Chateau.  A magnificent falcon flew around our heads several times before he got his treat.  Wonderful, and an Eagle Owl always seemed to be looking at me.

The Chateau des Milandes is a magical place, a magnificent tribute to an exceptional woman.  

Day 3. Today  we were driven through the beautiful Lisle valley to Chateau du Fratteau in Neuvic. a medieval fortress partly dismantled during the Revolution.  The owner has been restoring it for the last 40 years.  We entered via the unique underground refuge and saw the different rooms with authentic furniture from Perigord and the medieval kitchen.  Kudos to the owners for the enormous amount of renovating from a ruin.

  

After a delicious lunch at Le Kayola we visited a Walnut Mill, Moulin de la Veyssiers, with origins in the 13th century.  It is the last active mill in the Vern valley.  A place steeped in history.  After a tour we got to taste the oil, which we had watched being made using traditional methods on machines hundreds of years old.

 Day 4.  We set off late this morning for a visit to an organic bakery, Fournil de Montclard in St. Georges de Moutclard.  Richard is a farmer - baker.  He grows his own grains, grinds them into flour and then transforms them into delicious organic bread.

Marie-Line then took us to one of her favourite local hamlets, Altair, to meet local producers and to see how they made use of the surrounding land.  After a walk looking at the Organic Aromatic and Medicinal Plants we were treated to the most delicious lunch at the farmhouse where most of the produce came from the garden.

Day 5.  So exciting.  Marie-Line had organised light aircraft trips for us.  We flew over this beautiful area for an unforgettable view of the Dordogne and Constant.

Once our feet were firmly back on the ground Marie-Line took us to a local traditional vineyard, Chateau Grande Maison, Monbazillac for a wine tasting and cold buffet.  We were treated to a three-wine tasting experience with white, red and dessert wines.  A good amount of wine from six bottles!!    A pretty castle in the middle of vineyards and a tour of the production process.  Sublime day.

Day 6.  Most know about the prehistoric paintings at Lascaux Caves, but I'd not heard of the Rouffignac Caves, which we visited today.  This is the entrance to the caves.

You go deep inside the caves here on an electric train and can see the original Palaeolithic artwork in situ.  These are not paintings but black monochromatic line drawings, using pieces of manganese dioxide.  The artists would have had to do a Michelangelo and lie on their backs to paint some of the works.  (The floor has now been lowered).  There are some rock carvings too, using flint chisels or bones.  Occasionally, if the rock was soft enough, they could even use their finger nails.

We could easily make out distinct details like the animals' eyes, the long shaggy mammoth coats and the curled horns of the ibex.  One very interesting drawing of a mammoth showed its anal flap.  Sorry no photo of that one.  Yes, this is a flap that covers the mammoth's anus to keep it warm.  Only someone who had very close contact with a mammoth would know about this detail.  This fact was used to help authenticate these drawings, as they were thought to be modern fakes when they were first discovered.

Why would people go to such extraordinary trouble?  Were they religious symbols?  Offerings to a god or gods? Or was it simply art for art's sake?  No-one really knows.

All we really know for sure is that they belong  to the Palaeolithic period and were done about 13,000 years ago.

We could also see great gouges and scratches on the cave walls.  They think these were made by bears.  There were also some shallow pits or hollows at the sides where they think large hibernating bear-like creatures slept.

The Grotte de Rouffignac is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  No photographs allowed, so these are from postcards.

                                        

After our visit we enjoyed a farewell lunch together in an unusual rustic setting.  On our way to the restaurant we passed several buildings that were built right into the cliffs and very close to the road.

  The road also had a lot of overhanging rocks. 

Restaurant Laugerie Basse.  A troglodyte restaurant in Les Eyzies.  The setting is worth the visit.  We sat on the terrace under an arbor with an exceptional view over the valley.

After lunch we went for a stroll in the medieval village of Limeuil, a pretty medieval village with an interesting past and a view down over the Vezere and Dordogne Rivers.

Day 7.  A free day to enjoy the excellent on site facilities at Constant, in glorious sunshine, followed by our last meal together as a group.  Beautiful sunset.  The end to a fabulous holiday.

Thank you Marie-Line for organising this theme week - for your knowledge, friendliness and humour.  Much appreciated.

And thank you David and Louise, John and Clare, Brian and Sue, Sue and Pam for your excellent company.  We enjoyed every moment.

Thanks also to our excellent drivers, Christian and David.

A very enjoyable Theme week.

Mothering Sunday

This Mother's Day, my heart was overwhelmed with gratitude for the privilege of being a Mum and Nanna.  My children are my biggest blessings, greatest teachers and incredible joys in life.  I am reminded that "Mum" is not just a title but a journey of love, a test of patience and a testament to the strength of family.

I remember how every week was a whirlwind of activity, with schedules to juggle, never-ending laundry and the beautiful chaos of life unfolding before my eyes.  Yet, amidst the hustle and bustle, I cherished every morning cuddle, every family dinner and every goodnight kiss with both my children and grandchildren.  In the meantime, whether it's artwork adorning the fridge, crumbs scattered on the floor or muddy boots strewn about  - enjoy every moment, they grow up so quickly.

Mother's Day this year started off with a mega fabulous brunch prepared by Chloe and bottomless bubbles served by Jamie.

And a delicious afternoon tea, fit for a queen, at Alun and Gemma's.

Thank you also for the beautiful cards, flowers, bubbles and gorgeous beauty products.  

So let's raise a glass and toast all Mums.  You deserve it. 

 

Skiing in the Dolomites: Nature's Greatest Masterpiece

Due to an air traffic control strike planned to start at Verona Airport at 1 p.m.  Tui brought forward our flight from a reasonable hour to a 5.55 a.m. departure!  Well done Tui you arranged for us not to miss a day of our skiing holiday.

The drive from Verona Airport to Selva Val Gardena made up for the very early start.  Road tripping through Northern Italy is a bucket list experience.  From vineyard-lined lanes to winding mountain-top passes, a road trip from Verona to the Dolomites is one of the most scenic drives in Europe.  Especially if you go via Lake Garda.

Located in the eastern Italian Alps the Dolomites span from South Tyrol to Trentino - a place where Italian and Austrian  culture blend effortlessly.  You'll see signs in both languages, menus with gnocci and schnitzel, and people speaking German, Italian and Ladin.

But the real story?  These cliffs were once ancient coral reefs, millions of years ago, submerged under the sea.  The sea retreated, the Earth shifted, and now we get to ski on the remnants of prehistoric ocean floors, high in the sky.  Amazing.

Our hotel for the week was the Serena.  A great hotel in a perfect location.  It's a small, quaint, traditional family run hotel with comfy rooms, friendly service, good food and is immediately adjacent to the slopes making for a terrific, good value holiday.  It is ski in and ski out which was a criteria for me and close to the town and buses for Tina who wasn't skiing due to a knee replacement.  The Mussner family and their daughter, Mikaela were amazing, helping with all enquiries and nothing was too much trouble.    We particularly liked the carved wood ceilings and traditional furnishings along with the personal service.  Excellent ski boot room literally five metres from the slopes! And the skiing is brilliant with direct access to the Sella Ronda.  The jacuzzi, steam room and sauna were great after a hard day's skiing.

And the view from our balcony

And the view from Stuart and Tina's superior room

Skiing is living.  Regardless of age, skill, style, and background, the simple act of skiing down the hill brings joy.  But in my 70s I am not going to ski the way I did at 20 or 30.  I'm not going to go as steep, or as deep, or as big.  I'm not even going to ski as fast, or as long.  But at my advanced age just being out there is remarkable.  But I love to watch the unbelievably strong skiers who appear to be on average somewhere between puberty and drinking age!  My body remembers millions of turns - decades of deep powder, slushy spring moguls, miserable ice, and bruising crashes.  I suppose my eyes and my feet are becoming limiting factors, my vision on low visibility is a challenge and my feet have gnarly bunions and I've gone from twinkle toes to crinkle toes.  But all skiing is good skiing.  I LOVE sunny days.  I started skiing at age 12 and am now 73.  I have had the joy of teaching my children and then my grandchildren.  I used to be "sweeper" skiing last in the line to help the little ones. 

 The aging process does weird things to the mind.  Today, in my dotage, when confronted with a steep pitch full of knee-high, well-rounded moguls, I go around.  The mind is willing but the body says "Hell no".  However, I find myself taking in the vistas around me.  There's not a photograph that does justice to the majesty of snow-covered mountains.  There's nothing like breathing in the cold, crisp air while giving your thighs a breather and admiring the work of Mother Nature.

However, Stuart and Phil are still up for double-diamond expert terrain.  They had some great skiing.

Stuff the bus pass, Stuart and Phil take the ski lift.

The famous Black Saslong men's downhill was their first run of the day with valley cloud.

Then the James Bond long run. Also called "La Longia".  The  queen of the tracks in Val Gardena.  From Seceda at 2,511 metres to Ortisei at 1,236 metres.  It stretches for over ten kilometres and 1,275 metres of elevation, marking the longest path in the entire Dolomites.  It's a white marathon that starts in the open field, with wide and sunny slopes where the Sassolungo dominates the horizon.  The terrain is perfect for making wide and fast turns.  Then the track changes its character, enters the forest, followed by one of the most scenic features the Dolomites have to offer, a narrow canyon carved into rock where icy streams cascade.  Then crossing the cabins, passing by the wooden houses of the inhabitants of Ortisei, the track descends into the valley.  It's an extraordinary track, one of those that stays in the heart. 

Sassolungo.........che spettacolo.

 Then after a lunch break the steepest run in Val Gardena called Paprika.  Stuart loved it,  Phil took the more sedate adjoining red run.

In Italy, the first days of February bring a special celebration know as Candlemas, which takes place eyery year on February 2nd.  For many Italians, this holiday marks an important moment in the seasonal transition from winter to spring.  But beyond its religious significance, Candelora also carries rich cultural traditions that are reflected in the way Italians celebrate, including a quirky custom that many people continue to observe: leaving their Christmas decorations up until the feast.

A popular saying goes. "Se piove o tira vento, dell'inverno siamo dentro", which translates to: "If it rains or the wind blows, winter is over, but if it's sunny or clear, winter is still here."  Essentially, it's a weather predictor, based on the idea that Candelora signals the midpoint between the darkest days of the winter and the onset of spring.  Similar to ground hog day in America.  Well it was a glorious sunny day and the next day it snowed!  A day wrapped in white and plenty more snow on the way.

In the coldest months of the year, Selva Val Gardena and Ortisei turn into open-air museums, where snow and ice become artistic materials.  The theme for this year was "Winter Games", a tribute to the Milan Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralmpic Games.

Tina visited the magical pathway lined with ice sculptures in Ortisei.

And Phil and I found the sculptures in Selva.  Spectacular.

The Dolomites are simply our favourite ski area.  The views will stun, the refuges satisfy, the mountains inspire.