Return to Rocha Brava

Another visit to this wonderful little corner of Europe to relax, take it easy, put our feet up, wind down, switch off, maybe even chill out and its only 3 hrs. 30 mins away.  Easyjet fly to Faro airport in just 2 hrs. 45 mins from Gatwick and Rocha Brava is only a 50 minute drive from there along an empty motorway (the Portugese don't like to pay the tolls).  Obviously, you have the waiting time in the airport, but we can overlook that.

With a delightfully lackadaisical local lifestyle and more sunshine than anywhere this side of California, the Algarve is the perfect place for doing practically nothing.

After a couple of days of that, though we felt like a modicum of modest activity.  Nothing too strenuous you understand but new adventures await around every corner.

Our first adventure was to Benagil beach.  There is a huge car park at the top of the hill but Phil drops me off by the beach and then drives up the hill to park.  This is great as we always resemble a couple of pack horses laden down with sun parasols; beach bag which includes everything bar the kitchen sink; deluxe beach chairs and more...…  Long gone are the days when we arrive at a beach with a towel and some sun-cream!  We arrived at the beach early.  Why so early?  Well the Benagil cave is popular, one of the main attractions of the Algarve.  It is incredible how many people want to see the cave.  At 9.30 a.m. we were one of the first on the beach giving us the unique chance to enjoy the quiet surroundings and nature at its best.  And you can visit the cave before everyone else arrives and disturbs the peace.  Phil decided to swim to the cave.  This swimming adventure obviously involves getting in and out of the surf.  And yes readers, it's a right b*!  Phil was discovering minute pieces of smashed seashell in his body nooks and crannies hours later in the shower!  Also best to check conditions with the lifeguards.  Phil says it is an easy swim if you are an average swimmer in good conditions.  The distance is a mere 200 metres.  You just need to keep a good distance from the rocks, and when arriving in the cave, from the boats coming to and from the cave.

Benagil sea cave is a watery pantheon with sunlight streaming in through a hole in its domed ceiling and the cave is massive enough to have its own beach, which you can only reach by sea.  Inside, far from being gloomy or dark, the cave is bathed in sunlight through a naturally-formed circular 'skylight' in the rock ceiling almost 100 feet above the beach.  The sunlight streaming in through this opening creates an Oscar-worthy spotlight in the middle of the cave, while illuminating the turquoise waters that cast green reflections on to the rock walls.  It is nothing short of spectacular.

Meanwhile, I sat on the beach and waited for Phil's return.  Do you ever sit on a beach and just "people watch"?  I love it.  It was not exactly windy but every now and again a strong gust of wind blew the parasol inside out.  I studied new arrivals and the various techniques they employed to anchor their parasols as they battled with the unexpected gusts of wind.  Also stay away from under the cliffs....they do crumble.

We booked a table for Sunday lunch at the Casa Lamy restaurant overlooking Praia Benagil.  Great location with a table reserved for us right on the front.  The food was good and the service friendly and eager to please.

For our next adventure we set off for a day out to the West Coast, and the awe-inspiring Alteirinhas, where we found the waterfall leaping through dark rocks to the expanse of sand far below.

At Odeceixe we stopped on the headland to enjoy the views.  A beautiful beach, very popular with the surfers.

                                                         

We then returned by Arrifana and splashed out at O Paolo.  Set atop the cliffs just outside the village of Arrifana, O Paolo is a place you certainly won't forget dining at.  The show stopper of a view from this west coast fish restaurant is exceeded in wow factor by almost no other on these shores - and the food is excellent too.  There are also a few meat and vegetarian dishes.  It's not outrageously expensive, but you'll have to loosen the purse strings a touch - but it's completely worth it.
(90 Euros for starters, fish cataplana and a beer and wine).  It was a fabulously hot day when we visited but there is a glass extension overlooking the sea which would be a lovely sun trap on a wind cooled winter's day.

Next door to the restaurant is Arrifana Fortress built in 1635, during the reign of Philip IV, when D. Goncalo Coutinho was Governor of the Kingdom of the Algarve, on rocky cliffs for the protection of the fishing traps.  It was hugely affected by the 1755 earthquake when the tidal wave practically razed the battery to the ground and destroyed the countryside around it.

We then drove on to visit the Castle of Aljezur on a hilltop on the outskirts of the town of Aljezur.  The castle is supposed to have been built by the Arabs in the early 10th Century.  However, an archeological dig in the 1990s revealed a later occupation with a chronology from the end of the Bronze Age until the Modern Age.  Among the archeological objects found, are many manufactured items from the muslim period as well as two silos inside.  The castle was conquered in 1249 and was the last arab fortress to surrender to the Christian army.  The river around the city was navigable until the 16th century.

We continued on towards Vila do Bispo and took the well signposted road to Sagres heading south along a windswept peninsula of gently undulating countryside, mostly devoid of trees.  The land is used for growing grain and rearing cattle.  10 km from Vila do Bispo we arrived at Sagres.  Straight ahead from the first roundabout lie the imposing ramparts of a fortress protecting the headland of Sagres Point.  We parked outside and walked through the tunnel to the delightful one mile clifftop circular path offering the same viewing experience as the Lighthouse but without the crowds and fast food vans.  Admission to the fortress costs a few euros.

Afterwards, back at the first roundabout, we turned left along the 6 km road to Cape St. Vincent Lighthouse.  The lighthouse was built in 1846 on the site of a 16th century Francisan monastery.

On our return to Rocha Brava we stopped at the Tivoli Hotel's new  Skybar (just down the road from Rocha Brava) to drink in the view as the sun set over the Atlantic.  We have visited many roof top bars all over the world, Bangkok, Singapore but this one is also amazing.  Perfect for sundowners with the view dominated by the bay, ocean and cliffs set to an unobtrusive soundtrack of deep chill house music.  Service is attentive but relaxed.  There's no dress code and no need to book.  Fabulous.  Just walk in at the entrance to the Hotel and follow the signs to the Skybar.

Another day, another adventure.  Just before Carvoeiro you'll discover Algar Seco, a piece of coastline known for its rock formations that have been hollowed out and sculpted by both water and wind.  Here you can walk around the rocky ledges, exploring the eroded and hollowed-out landscape with its organic 'windows' that look out onto the sea.  There's even a restaurant and bar, The Boneca, nestled in between the rocks where we always stop for a cocktail before walking the Boardwalk to Carvoeiro. We always time our walk to Carvoeiro to arrive in time for sunset.  A pixel-perfect vantage point for capturing one of the Algarve's famous sunsets.  We then had dinner at the Oasis Café Restaurant about 150 m from the beach on the one way street leading out of Carvoeiro back to Lagoa.  Can recommend the Sate Chicken Kebab and Ribs.  We then walked back along the boardwalk to our car parked at Algar Seco.

Another boardwalk we enjoyed was at Alvor.  This extensive wooden structure starts its winding course by the little harbour, right alongside the fishermen's huts.  It then takes you through estuarine wetlands and shallow blue lagoons.  A drowned valley formed by the confluence of four different small rivers, the charming estuary is one of the most significant wetland refuges in southern Portugal.
The boardwalk then takes you right to the point where the lagoon finally meets the ocean.  By then, the main path has led you to the far-end of the spacious Alvor beach.  At that point, the boardwalk reaches a breakwater topped by a small lighthouse.  Looking into the water it is possible to distinguish large shoals of silvery fish: good looking (and probably great-tasting?).  After such a pleasant walk we needed to head back to the village to find the savoury-looking fish, handsomely grilled.  This we did at Ze Morgadinho where we enjoyed perfectly cooked sardines with potatoes and salad.  Superb Vinho Verdi on draught.  Shabby chic, very popular with locals.  Oh and there was an accordion player too.  The greatest champion of Portuguese food is its fish, since its location and the Atlantic waters make it the best fish in the world.  I also love the pastel de nata (custard tarts).

To stretch our legs again another day we did the cliff top walk from Benagil eastwards.  We parked in the large car park at the top of the hill and after looking down into Benagil Cave walked along the cliff edge.  Stunning.  An easy walk but wear trainers.

 After returning to the car we drove to Praia de Albandeira.  A beautiful cove and beach - an Algarve gem (just don't tell anyone else!).  Easy to drive to if you are used to one track lanes!!!!  The car park is very close to the beach and there is a little café selling drinks and pizza (A Pirata).

Utterly Breathtaking Scenery.  A little beach surrounded by rocky cliffs.  There is a tunnel you can go through on the beach (or walk on the cliff) to get a fantastic view of a rocky arch just like Durdle Door.  Loved it so much we returned the next day and spent the morning here.  Just be aware of the tides.  The beach disappears at high tide.

Another fabulous holiday.  We will return.