Wednesday, 1 July 2015

Hvar Flotilla

Croatia, a country of numerous islands and the purest Adriatic Sea.  It could well be the best area in Europe for sailing.  Moreover, the architecture of the old towns bears the imprint of former Venetian domination which makes your presence onshore so pleasant.  Everybody who has ever sailed here will tell you it is nautical heaven.


Although Phil knows the nautical ropes it's great to sail in a Flotilla and meet others after the day's sailing and to share others experiences.


It's also nice to have the navigational tips from the lead boat before setting off in the morning, knowing they will be waiting for you on arrival at the next marina later in the day.


  We joined the Hvar Flotilla with Sunsail at Agana Marina near Split.

This snow-white beauty KIKIWI is ours for the whole week.


We sailed from Agana via Trogir, a UNESCO world heritage site.  Trogir is a stunning medieval town built on a small island.


 
Lunch was on the go.  On a sailboat, you may go for hours to an island that seems close at hand, and Phil with Clive and some help from us "gals" changed tack again and again.


Our first night was spent in Milna on Brac Island where the flotilla met up for a Punch Party.

We then sailed the next morning to Stari Grad stopping at Lucice Bay for lunch.  Wonderful and memorable to be under sail, listening to the sounds of the sea.


 Moreover, from time to time, Rosie provided welcome refreshments for our small team.


Stari Grad meaning old town, is one of the oldest towns in Europe.  It is a beautiful town full of history waiting to be explored.   Rarely visited by tourists, this town was a real surprise for us.  Guess what it was called in ancient times?  It is nothing less than the  Greek Faros, but not the one where the famous lighthouse stood.  As with Alexandria, there were several cities of Faros.  The Greek philosopher Aristotle was born here.  It is a city of amazing beauty. Here you can feel the nobleness of time and ancient stones.






We dined in Antika konoba.  This restaurant can be found in the small alleys in Stari Grad and is worth hunting down (took us a couple of attempts).  Clue look for anchor pointing the way.  We sat on the roof terrace - a lovely setting and atmosphere, food great and a friendly owner.  Made for a really memorable evening.

We departed the next morning for Hvar Palmizana Marina.  Sailing in Croatia is incredibly beautiful.  Sometimes blue, sometimes turquoise water.
Snowy-white sails full of wind; you are free as a bird; white sea foam and salt spray on your face!



Here is Hvar.  This city, on an island of the same name, has Croatia's biggest medieval square, a mix of Baroque and Renaissance.  St. Stephen's Square.


The tiny streets seem to lead almost to the sky.  You climb higher and higher to reach a well-preserved medieval bastille, Spanjola Fortress.




Beautiful views from the top.


A short break, and return down to Kikiwi...


The next day we sailed from Hvar via Gornja Krusica Cove on Solta to Stomorska, Solta Island.

During  the week we dropped the anchor at some hidden bays with water of amazing colours, berthing  at the old quays full of similar sailing boats.

My business was photo shooting without falling overboard!!




     




And so to Stomorska...



We left Stomorska and sailed to Maslinica on Solta Island stopping at Tatinja Cove for lunch.

Mariners will all agree that every sail is both an adventure and an opportunity to relax;  it is a learning exercise; sometimes a source of fear (well it is to us girls) but always a challenge.

 



To sail means to come across elements in their purest form; the air and the wind, the water and the waves; there is the sun and the salty drops of water.  Sailing teaches you caution and patience; every sail brings a new experience.


It's also quite tiring.


Wherever you sail along the eastern Adriatic Coast, you will find yourself on one of the maritime routes that have existed since the time of Antiquity, of the ancient Greeks and Romans.  Later controlled by Byzantium, and then Venice, as of the Middle Ages.  For a short time, their masters were the Turks, the Austrians, the French, and even the English, who used the island of Vis as their
pirating and smuggling stronghold from which they peddled colonial and British wares during the French blockade.

And so to Maslinica....



Maslinica is a tiny picturesque village dominated by a 300 year old castle that has been renovated and now accommodates a 5 star hotel.

Our last day of sailing was from Maslinica stopping at Mali Drvenik for lunch and back to where it
all began at Agana Marina.  Time for a celebratory drink on Da Draga with it's crew Jean Pierre and Chantal.

Once again sailing is beautiful.  No-one on land ever knows that you are not very well washed (although we did manage to shower most days) a bit unshaven and a bit tired.

Sailing is like backpacking but a little more expensive!

Thank you Clive and Rosie for your company and Phil you are an excellent Skipper.







 
 



2 comments:

  1. Hi Sheila, I love your blog! You go to such interesting places and you write about it all so well. Keep up the good work! Regards Liz Jesty

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  2. Thank you Liz. Lovely to hear from you. Hope you are keeping well.
    Love Sheila

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