Return to Rocha Brava

Another visit to this wonderful little corner of Europe to relax, take it easy, put our feet up, wind down, switch off, maybe even chill out and its only 3 hrs. 30 mins away.  Easyjet fly to Faro airport in just 2 hrs. 45 mins from Gatwick and Rocha Brava is only a 50 minute drive from there along an empty motorway (the Portugese don't like to pay the tolls).  Obviously, you have the waiting time in the airport, but we can overlook that.

With a delightfully lackadaisical local lifestyle and more sunshine than anywhere this side of California, the Algarve is the perfect place for doing practically nothing.

After a couple of days of that, though we felt like a modicum of modest activity.  Nothing too strenuous you understand but new adventures await around every corner.

Our first adventure was to Benagil beach.  There is a huge car park at the top of the hill but Phil drops me off by the beach and then drives up the hill to park.  This is great as we always resemble a couple of pack horses laden down with sun parasols; beach bag which includes everything bar the kitchen sink; deluxe beach chairs and more...…  Long gone are the days when we arrive at a beach with a towel and some sun-cream!  We arrived at the beach early.  Why so early?  Well the Benagil cave is popular, one of the main attractions of the Algarve.  It is incredible how many people want to see the cave.  At 9.30 a.m. we were one of the first on the beach giving us the unique chance to enjoy the quiet surroundings and nature at its best.  And you can visit the cave before everyone else arrives and disturbs the peace.  Phil decided to swim to the cave.  This swimming adventure obviously involves getting in and out of the surf.  And yes readers, it's a right b*!  Phil was discovering minute pieces of smashed seashell in his body nooks and crannies hours later in the shower!  Also best to check conditions with the lifeguards.  Phil says it is an easy swim if you are an average swimmer in good conditions.  The distance is a mere 200 metres.  You just need to keep a good distance from the rocks, and when arriving in the cave, from the boats coming to and from the cave.

Benagil sea cave is a watery pantheon with sunlight streaming in through a hole in its domed ceiling and the cave is massive enough to have its own beach, which you can only reach by sea.  Inside, far from being gloomy or dark, the cave is bathed in sunlight through a naturally-formed circular 'skylight' in the rock ceiling almost 100 feet above the beach.  The sunlight streaming in through this opening creates an Oscar-worthy spotlight in the middle of the cave, while illuminating the turquoise waters that cast green reflections on to the rock walls.  It is nothing short of spectacular.

Meanwhile, I sat on the beach and waited for Phil's return.  Do you ever sit on a beach and just "people watch"?  I love it.  It was not exactly windy but every now and again a strong gust of wind blew the parasol inside out.  I studied new arrivals and the various techniques they employed to anchor their parasols as they battled with the unexpected gusts of wind.  Also stay away from under the cliffs....they do crumble.

We booked a table for Sunday lunch at the Casa Lamy restaurant overlooking Praia Benagil.  Great location with a table reserved for us right on the front.  The food was good and the service friendly and eager to please.

For our next adventure we set off for a day out to the West Coast, and the awe-inspiring Alteirinhas, where we found the waterfall leaping through dark rocks to the expanse of sand far below.

At Odeceixe we stopped on the headland to enjoy the views.  A beautiful beach, very popular with the surfers.

                                                         

We then returned by Arrifana and splashed out at O Paolo.  Set atop the cliffs just outside the village of Arrifana, O Paolo is a place you certainly won't forget dining at.  The show stopper of a view from this west coast fish restaurant is exceeded in wow factor by almost no other on these shores - and the food is excellent too.  There are also a few meat and vegetarian dishes.  It's not outrageously expensive, but you'll have to loosen the purse strings a touch - but it's completely worth it.
(90 Euros for starters, fish cataplana and a beer and wine).  It was a fabulously hot day when we visited but there is a glass extension overlooking the sea which would be a lovely sun trap on a wind cooled winter's day.

Next door to the restaurant is Arrifana Fortress built in 1635, during the reign of Philip IV, when D. Goncalo Coutinho was Governor of the Kingdom of the Algarve, on rocky cliffs for the protection of the fishing traps.  It was hugely affected by the 1755 earthquake when the tidal wave practically razed the battery to the ground and destroyed the countryside around it.

We then drove on to visit the Castle of Aljezur on a hilltop on the outskirts of the town of Aljezur.  The castle is supposed to have been built by the Arabs in the early 10th Century.  However, an archeological dig in the 1990s revealed a later occupation with a chronology from the end of the Bronze Age until the Modern Age.  Among the archeological objects found, are many manufactured items from the muslim period as well as two silos inside.  The castle was conquered in 1249 and was the last arab fortress to surrender to the Christian army.  The river around the city was navigable until the 16th century.

We continued on towards Vila do Bispo and took the well signposted road to Sagres heading south along a windswept peninsula of gently undulating countryside, mostly devoid of trees.  The land is used for growing grain and rearing cattle.  10 km from Vila do Bispo we arrived at Sagres.  Straight ahead from the first roundabout lie the imposing ramparts of a fortress protecting the headland of Sagres Point.  We parked outside and walked through the tunnel to the delightful one mile clifftop circular path offering the same viewing experience as the Lighthouse but without the crowds and fast food vans.  Admission to the fortress costs a few euros.

Afterwards, back at the first roundabout, we turned left along the 6 km road to Cape St. Vincent Lighthouse.  The lighthouse was built in 1846 on the site of a 16th century Francisan monastery.

On our return to Rocha Brava we stopped at the Tivoli Hotel's new  Skybar (just down the road from Rocha Brava) to drink in the view as the sun set over the Atlantic.  We have visited many roof top bars all over the world, Bangkok, Singapore but this one is also amazing.  Perfect for sundowners with the view dominated by the bay, ocean and cliffs set to an unobtrusive soundtrack of deep chill house music.  Service is attentive but relaxed.  There's no dress code and no need to book.  Fabulous.  Just walk in at the entrance to the Hotel and follow the signs to the Skybar.

Another day, another adventure.  Just before Carvoeiro you'll discover Algar Seco, a piece of coastline known for its rock formations that have been hollowed out and sculpted by both water and wind.  Here you can walk around the rocky ledges, exploring the eroded and hollowed-out landscape with its organic 'windows' that look out onto the sea.  There's even a restaurant and bar, The Boneca, nestled in between the rocks where we always stop for a cocktail before walking the Boardwalk to Carvoeiro. We always time our walk to Carvoeiro to arrive in time for sunset.  A pixel-perfect vantage point for capturing one of the Algarve's famous sunsets.  We then had dinner at the Oasis Café Restaurant about 150 m from the beach on the one way street leading out of Carvoeiro back to Lagoa.  Can recommend the Sate Chicken Kebab and Ribs.  We then walked back along the boardwalk to our car parked at Algar Seco.

Another boardwalk we enjoyed was at Alvor.  This extensive wooden structure starts its winding course by the little harbour, right alongside the fishermen's huts.  It then takes you through estuarine wetlands and shallow blue lagoons.  A drowned valley formed by the confluence of four different small rivers, the charming estuary is one of the most significant wetland refuges in southern Portugal.
The boardwalk then takes you right to the point where the lagoon finally meets the ocean.  By then, the main path has led you to the far-end of the spacious Alvor beach.  At that point, the boardwalk reaches a breakwater topped by a small lighthouse.  Looking into the water it is possible to distinguish large shoals of silvery fish: good looking (and probably great-tasting?).  After such a pleasant walk we needed to head back to the village to find the savoury-looking fish, handsomely grilled.  This we did at Ze Morgadinho where we enjoyed perfectly cooked sardines with potatoes and salad.  Superb Vinho Verdi on draught.  Shabby chic, very popular with locals.  Oh and there was an accordion player too.  The greatest champion of Portuguese food is its fish, since its location and the Atlantic waters make it the best fish in the world.  I also love the pastel de nata (custard tarts).

To stretch our legs again another day we did the cliff top walk from Benagil eastwards.  We parked in the large car park at the top of the hill and after looking down into Benagil Cave walked along the cliff edge.  Stunning.  An easy walk but wear trainers.

 After returning to the car we drove to Praia de Albandeira.  A beautiful cove and beach - an Algarve gem (just don't tell anyone else!).  Easy to drive to if you are used to one track lanes!!!!  The car park is very close to the beach and there is a little café selling drinks and pizza (A Pirata).

Utterly Breathtaking Scenery.  A little beach surrounded by rocky cliffs.  There is a tunnel you can go through on the beach (or walk on the cliff) to get a fantastic view of a rocky arch just like Durdle Door.  Loved it so much we returned the next day and spent the morning here.  Just be aware of the tides.  The beach disappears at high tide.

Another fabulous holiday.  We will return.

Growing up!

Jamie has started school and I realise I am saying goodbye to a whole era of my life and perhaps the most precious too.  With the last of my grandchildren at school, this phase of life is now behind me.  Of course, they'll still have plenty of time at home and won't grow old overnight, but school represents a different life stage, a first step towards independence.  Not only is it demanding of our grandchildren's time but it influences and shapes them too.

Some grandparents call it a "Champagne and tissues" moment but they'd have to be man-sized tissues and even the best Moet would no doubt taste flat.  Its just that when a grandchild starts school the time you are able to spend with them decreases.  During the pre-school years Caroline and Gemma often needed extra childcare and we were so happy to step in and help.  It was the perfect time to develop a bond and find activities that we enjoyed doing together.  But when they start school their weekdays are suddenly very full.

I will now look forward to inset days and holidays and have to accept they will have lots more activities and friends they will be busy with.  But at least WhatsApp lets us see what they're up to.

Enjoy school Jamie, I know you will love it and big sister will look after you.

Glad to hear both Emmie and Chloe are still eager to return to school after the long holidays.

Leisurely stroll on the Solent Path

We  decided to walk from Milford-on-Sea to the Chequers pub via Keyhaven on the Coastal path.

Firstly, it's flat.

Secondly, there is plenty of wildlife, even for a non-twitcher to appreciate

and thirdly, the scenery is stunning.

As I say it's an easy, flat route and the views make it special - on one side you're looking out across the water to the Isle of Wight, while on the other the forest stretches away to the horizon.  One of the nicest things is that the forest almost comes down to the coast and we saw New Forest ponies grazing right by the sea.

From Milford-on-Sea we headed towards the small picturesque village of Keyhaven overlooking The Solent with views towards Hurst Castle and the Isle of Wight.  Once at Keyhaven follow the Solent Way along the harbour wall heading east.

Turn right through a kissing gate.  Remain on the good shingle path close to the foreshore.  This is part of the 60 mile long Solent Way passing the Pennington Marshes.  The marshes form part of a nature reserve that offers a mosaic of habitats from coastal grazing marshes, shallow brackish lagoons to tidal mudflats and salt marshes.  The reserve is an important stop-off for migrating birds in spring and autumn and a major breeding site for common sandwich and little terns.

For hundreds of years, and maybe as far back as Roman times, the coastline between Keyhaven and Lymington was a thriving centre for the production of salt.  Sea water was allowed to flow into the salterns - areas of land divided into small shallow ponds only about three inces deep - where it was left to partially evaporate, forming a strong brine solution (a mix of salt and water).  This was then pumped by windmill into storage tanks before being dried in large metal boiling pans to produce salt crystals.  During its heyday, there were numerous salt workings along the five mile stretch of coastline, with each salt pan producing around three tons of salt per week.

You will also pass a 2nd World War Jetty and in the distance you can see hundreds of masts of the boats at Lymington.

 Ignore all paths inland, your sea wall path skirting Oxey Marsh before heading west beside a channel to an old sluice gate.  Shortly, cross the stile on your right and head towards a house on a narrow path beside the creek.  the two brick buildings you can see across the creek are old salt boiling housesat Moses Dock - all that remains of the once thriving salt production.

Moses Dock, is one of several narrow inlets, and was constructed to allow barges to dock and off load coal for the boiling houses and to export the salt.  The old brick buildings on the eastern side of the inlet are the last two remaining salt boiling houses that used to house some of the boiling pans.  Cheaper, mined salt, forced the closure of the last saltern in the 1860s.

Just before a stile, bear left and continue to a lane.  Turn right here to visit The Chequers Inn.  Ridgeway Lane, S041 8AH.

The name for this 17th century Inn comes from the fact that this Inn was once the salt exchequer, where tax was collected on the salt produced nearby.  There were as many as 163 salt pans around the area in the 18th century, producing 4,600 tons of salt between 1724 and 1766.

An excellent walk with one of England's loveliest views punctuated by lunch in the Chequers.

Getting back:-

Either continue on to Lymington and catch the bus back to Milford-on-Sea.

Return the same way but with a fabulous view of the Needles, I.O.W

Or walk up the lane to Pennington and catch the bus home.

Visit to Great Bookham

Yesterday afternoon with our good friends, Tony and Pauline, we visited Poleston Lacey, a National Trust country house located in Great Bookham, Surrey and were fascinated by the story of Margaret Grenville.  After our visit we carried on to Clive and Rosie's house, nearby, for dinner.

This Regency house was extensively remodelled in 1906 by Maggie, who was a well-known Edwardian hostess.  Her collection of fine paintings, furniture, porcelain and silver is displayed in the reception rooms and galleries, as it was at the time of her celebrated house parties.  The house grounds are spectacular covering 1,400acres, including a beautiful walled rose garden, lawns, ancient woodland and landscape walks.  We must return to do the grounds because the temp. was in the 30s and it was just too hot to stroll around.

The future George VI and Queen Elizabeth spent part of their honeymoon here in 1923, and were not the only Royals to experience Margaret's lavish and spectacular house parties. The house is opulent as well as welcoming and it is understandable why nobility escaped to the house with its amazing views over the downs.

Inside the house there's a beautiful golden room with a lovely grand piano, which a member of the public was playing.  The dining room was laid with a note about each guest at each place.   Mrs. Greville loved her guests and their gossip.  She entertained King Edward VII and Winston Churchill.  In the Central Hall there is a priceless collection of Majolica ceramics.

Margaret said "I would rather be a Beeress than a Peeress".  Grenville and her husband, Ronald, bought the house in 1906 and although he died in 1908, she continued to run the house until her death in 1942.  She wanted a house that would be fit for kings and maharajas so she commissioned the architects of the Ritz, Mewes and Davis, to design it to be the epitome of the latest in luxury and comfort, and, as such, was equipped with all the latest innovations such as en suite bathrooms and central heating.

 It was interesting to discover that her father, William McEwan was a brewer (you can purchase McEwans beer in the Cowshed) and a self made millionaire and she was in fact illegitimate.  Reading between the lines, I believe her mother was already married to another and her father eventually married her mother when he was 58.    On his death, he bequeathed everything to his daughter and she in turn, having had no children, left everything to the National Trust.  What a treasure it is and well worth a visit.

Mrs. Greville was a woman to be reckoned with.  This was a woman who knew what she liked and how things should be done.

This is how the curators of Polesden Lacey would like us to know her:-

Mrs. Greville rose from obscure origins to attain political influence, great wealth and the friendship of royalty.  An inveterate traveller and relentless celebrity-hunter, she could be both discreetly charitable and personally waspish. She was one of the most influential hostesses in Europe for nearly four decades.  She often aroused strong and contradictory reactions.  The diariest, Chips Channon wrote that there was 'no-one on earth so skilfully malicious as old Maggie'.  But when she died, the Queen Mother wrote 'I shall miss her very much'.

One of the stories told to us in the dining room was:-

The drunken butler.....  Glorious as the setting was, Mrs. Greville's staff would occasionally let her down.  On one occasion, it was apparent that the butler was intoxicated.  She wrote a surreptitious note saying, 'You are drunk; leave the room at once', summoned the butler and placed it on his salver.  He bowed courteously, advanced to the guest of honour, Sir Austen Chamberlain, and presented the note to him.  The eminent politician spent the rest of the meal in mystified silence.  When she explained the misunderstanding, he replied that it was the first time he had ever been silenced by a drunken butler.

A grand entrance...  Every evening at 6 p.m. the footman would lay out drinks on the 17th century refectory table, while the gramophone would play the latest hits by Noel Coward.  When she was sure that all her guests were gathered attentively below, Mrs. Greville would descend the staircase slowly, pausing at the landing for maximum impact before completing her entrée among her visitors.

After our visit we continued on to Clive and Rosie's where, just like Mrs. Greville, attention to detail ensured we had a wonderful evening.  The food arrived piping hot, while the champagne was chilled,
just as served at Poleston Lacey, a welcome novelty compared with many country house dinners.

I think I would have loved to have stayed for the weekend at Mrs. Greville's place!!  Gorgeous house, wonderful food and a whole lot of fun.

Housewarming.

It finally happened:

Caz and Mike found their dream hope.  The furnitures moved in and the boxes are unpacked so let's celebrate.

Caz and Mike invited family, new neighbours and friends over to make the house a home with a canapes and cocktail housewarming party.

The house certainly heated up.  It was such a beautiful day with temperatures in the 30s.

Caroline got the party started with maximum fun and minimum fuss.

Having just returned from Majorca she added a shot of Spanish style with Hugo cocktails.
A beautifully fresh and summery tipple.  Delightfully refreshing with fresh mint, elderflower, Proscecco (although in Spain they use Cava) and sparkling water!  (Gently rub the mint leaves together to draw out the flavour, then place in the glass.  You can either remove the leaves from the stem or keep them on.   Then add elderflower syrup in sparkling water (Waitrose sell), Prosecco and a slice of lime and serve on ice).  The whole thing just makes you feel so cool and chic.

She also added a shot of style with satay canapes.  So easy - spoon a little ready make satay sauce into a shot glass and add a ready made chicken satay and serve cold.  Delicious.  They also went well with the spicy prawns and mango.  And the children loved the cut up Watermelon.

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And, of course, no party is complete without a cake.

Many thanks to Jo for bringing this delicious cake as a housewarming gift.

The Sweet Sorrel Bakery

Vanilla sponge, white chocolate ganache and raspberry filling.  Swiss meringue buttercream frosting with raspberries and white chocolate shavings.  It was so good and there was none left over.

https://www.facebook.com/329822507448814/posts/527611244336605

It tasted as good as it looked!

Congratulations on your new home!!  Wishing you all the very best settling in and making it your own.