Under the Portuguese sun

Mykonos may be alluring, Ibiza tantalizing and St. Tropez may have the ultimate swagger but Portugal has been my port of call this year.  And the light: at sunrise, it's luminescent with shades of cotton candy and at sunset, it dissolves listlessly into a canvas of tangerine.

I may not be a creature of habit but this year I spent August in the Algarve, September on the Douro and  October back to the Algarve.  It's a mere two and half hours from London, summer perfection is guaranteed and it truly has the most spectacular beaches in Europe.  A canvas of whitewashed towns and villages, scented orange groves, rugged, russet coastline and biscuit-coloured sands.  Rocha Brava is our sunny perch for this holiday.

The Algarve has 200 km of drop dead gorgeous beaches, coves and cliffs.  It's the Atlantic here so the sea is bracing.  We wake early on our first morning and wander over to the closest beach at Centianes, a picture-perfect spot when the tide is low.  I settle down and gaze out to sea and a movement in the water catches my eye.  We were treated to the sight of a large pod of  dolphins, jumping out of the water, just metres from the shore. It was a truly amazing sight.

We had booked a table for our Sunday lunch at 'O Stop'.  Delicious.

Unfortunately, the next day it was raining and the BBQ at the Clubhouse was cancelled.  Even Mary had her flight cancelled because of the rain.  Did you know Rocha  Brava keep falcons.  They're incredible allies, helping to keep the resort calm and harmonious by chasing away persistent seagulls.  A natural and fascinating way to preserve our slice of paradise.

So we decided to have a day out and headed to Mt. Foia. Something I love about Portugal is how many storks it has just casually nesting in the most unlikely places.  We drive through Rasmalho (Stork City) at about 10 a.m.  It is on the left side of  the N266 about 2 km after Silves turnoff.  If you reach the village of Rasmalho, you have gone too far.  There is likely to be a few cars pulled over, by a garage, so that folks can snap photos.  There are GINORMOUS stork nests, complete with storks flapping about.  The storks you see in the Algarve are White Storks and they are absolutely huge, hence the whopping nests.  If you've never seen a stork in real life, be prepared for the sky to darken as they fly over you like a small aircraft.  Their wingspan is up to 215cm (thanks, Wikipedia).  And they make a very distinct clattering noise, which sounds like machinery starting up.  Something has to power that wingspan I suppose.

The drive up to Mt. Foia from Monchique is not for the faint hearted but it is worth it when you get to the top.  Takes about 15 mins from Monchique.  Breathtaking views despite the obligatory radio masts.  There is a 7km walk if you are feeling energetic.  This is the highest point of the Algarve at nearly 3000ft above sea level.  Although the weather was overcast it was possible to see from the bay of Portimao to the Sagres peninsula.  Spectacular!

Our bellies grumbled so on our way down we stopped for lunch at A Rampo.  Service from the South African lady was excellent.  A rustic restaurant, very basic, but with fantastic views, and excellent piri piri chicken.  She also recommended Alfarroba for a dessert.  I'm a chocolate lover.  I'm also a fig lover and I've now discovered that chocolate and fig had a love child, and its name is Alfarroba. For those of you unfamiliar with carob (alfarroba), it's the dark and mysterious-looking seed pod that comes from the alfarrobeira (caroba tree).  This restaurant is a hidden gem.

We return home via Alferce and the Dam (Barragem de Odelouca).  The scenery was beautiful with eucalyptus, cork and pine trees covering the hills.

Nothing to watch on the TV that evening so we popped in to the cafe at Rocha Brava for the odd drink (or three!).  Fantastic live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.  Great atmosphere.

Another beach day.  Drove to  Praia Grande near Ferragudo, just a ten minute drive from Rocha Brava.  A sheltered rather hidden treasure for either a quiet walk in winter or sunning yourself in the summer. A lovely very large sandy riverside beach, without seaweed, and the water seems to be generally calm.  No waves like the more ocean oriented beaches so it's more family and child friendly here.  Views of Portimao Marina.  The Praia Grande Panoramic Restaurant is a wonderful place to have lunch.  We always reserve to get a table with a front line view.  Enjoyed watching the high performance hydrofoiling kiteracing.

That evening we visit the Sky Bar at the Tivoli, Carvoeiro.  The magical sunset view from the rooftop of the Tivoli Hotel is not to be missed.  You don't need a reservation and can rock up at any time during the afternoon or evening, but it's best to get there a little earlier so you can get one of the sofa seats with the best views.  From the bar, you'll have gorgeous sea views over a cove and the cliffs.  The cocktails are good too.

The next day was a wild rainy day and from the balcony we could hear a thunderous whoosing sound.  We discovered there is a blow hole which can be accessed and seen via the Atlantic gate just down from the cliff top pool at Rocha Brava.  It came alive every 30 seconds with a tremendous roar and thunderous air blowing.  Just seawater pressure.  Amazing.

The remnants of  hurricane Kirk are still hanging about so we decide to head to Faro.  Quite difficult to park but we found a spot by the railway station.  (Decided on our next visit we must take the train to Vila Real de Santo Antonio for lunch and to wave at Spain).  I'm in full tour guide mode here.....

One of the first things to do in Faro when you arrive is to walk the length of the palm-tree-lined marina.  The place is bustling with both tourists and locals, and there are plenty of places to stop for a drink or lunch.

While you're walking around Faro's marina, it's worth calling in at the Maritime Museum.  It's up on the first floor in the Port Authority building and isn't that obvious from the outside.  The museum goes through all the marine species in the area, such as sardine, tuna and squid.  There are also some model ships and fishing equipment.  It's only small but it gives you an idea of how life in the Algarve revolved around the fishing industry, shipbuilding and navigation before it became a tourist destination.  And it's free to get in, so definitely worth a mooch round; it should only take 15 minutes maximum.

We tried to find Faro's answer to Copenhagen's Little Mermaid statue but without success.  She apparently had a shell for a head so I think this must be all that is left of her.

Who doesn't love posing with some giant letters spelling out the name of the city or town they're in?  You'll find Faro's sign in the marina, complete with a small queue of tourists waiting their turn.

Faro's old town is encircled by thick stone walls.  For many years, most of the inhabitants lived within the walls to protect them from sea raiders.  Sadly the entrance is being renovated at the moment.

The small Paco Episcopal de Faro (Bishop's Palace) is behind the orange trees in the old town's main square.  You would assume it was offices or something from the outside.  There's no big sign or anything to beckon tourists in.  There is a small charge to get in.  The palace dates back to 1585, although it's been destroyed and rebuilt since.  It was used as a training centre for priests.  I know, I know, this sounds painful.  Even if you're into your bishops through the ages, there are only two rooms inside and it'd probably take ten minutes maximum to complete.  But you should 100% go in to see the breathtaking azulejo tiles going up the staircase.  These are worth the entrance fee alone. 

The Cathedral of Santa Maria is in the heart of the old town, set in a large, orange-tree-lined square (sadly turned into a carpark, which ruins the prettiness).  Small charge to enter.

Santa Maria has a stone bell tower you can haul yourself up, involving not very many stairs at all TBH, considering the reward at the end is an excellent view over Faro and out to the lagoon.  Watch out if you're up there on the hour, though, because the bell is LOUD.

If you've been anywhere in Portugal, you'll be familiar with its tiled streets.  I love them (other than when it's raining and they become slippery and mildly lethal).  Faro has some exceptional ones, but you should also look up....Overhead, the main shopping streets in Faro have big white canopies hung like the sails of a ship, creating some very welcome shade in the summer heat.

We walk to see the bone chapel at the beautiful Igreja do Carmo (check times of opening).  Although there are a few places around Europe where you can see chapels made of bones like this, it's still an unusual experience and not to be missed while you're in Faro, even if you find it a bit macabre and creepy.  The bone chapel is a small building around the back of the Igreja do Carmo, the main church, which dates back to 1719.  This is known for being one of the most picturesque churches in the Algarve: a Baroque-style building with an impressively tiled square leading up to it.  Its interior is full of lovely golden gilded altars and ornate woodwork.  The church was badly damaged in Faro's 1755 earthquake and had to be reconstructed.  Apparently, the repair works took over 100 years!

Anyway, to get to the bone chapel, you have to walk through a colourful little garden, accessed via a door at the side of the altar.  There may be a small queue of people waiting to duck inside.  I'd recommend waiting until it's empty if you have time, so you can appreciate the full extent of the bones and skulls of over 1,200 monks without people in the way.  The bones are all displayed in geometric patterns covering the walls and ceiling.  The idea is to remind people of how short life is.  I prefer wallpaper for interior decor, personally, but it's very striking.

 

It's Saturday, the maids are coming - we need to vacate the apartment - and the weather is still a little unsettled so we decide to visit Praia da Rocha in Portimao.  From the beach at Praia da Grande we had watched people walk out to the Lighthouse.  It's easy to park at the Marina.  We strolled along the long wooden boardwalk following the beach for a nice, easy walk next to the beach.  There are several nice restaurants on the boardwalk where you can get something to eat or drink if it starts to rain.  Located above the beach's western end is the Tres Castelos Viewpoint (viewpoint of the Three Castles).  The name of this beach comes from the three large rocks in the water that represent three castles.

At the eastern end we walked to the lighthouse along the well constructed harbour wall and then looked at the expensive boats in the Marina.

Enjoyed delicious Sardines for lunch at Atlantico Restaurant.  Then walked back along the boardwalk to another restaurant for dessert and coffee.  Brigadeiro Cake - very good.

 And so lovely to return to a beautifully clean apartment.  The maids do work hard.

The boardwalk in Carvoeiro is spectacular, the views and rock formations are amazing.  There is parking near Algar Seco.  And a really wonderful spot to watch the sunset, with a cocktail of course, is the Bonica Bar.

We also like to walk the boardwalk to Carvoeiro for lunch at Restaurante O Barco.  A great fish restaurant with a sea view.  Perfect position next to the beach and very reasonably priced.

Another day, another adventure.  We set off to the wild west coast and the town of Aljezur, with its castle, and then followed the road signs to Praia de Odeceixe.  Voted one of the "7 Wonders - Beaches of Portugal".  What a stunning setting.  Dramatic waves crashing to shore around a horseshoe bay.  A surf school braving the waves was fun to watch.

We then retraced our steps to Aljezur and took the turning to Praia Monte do Clerigo for lunch at O Sargo.  The setting is amazing.  The beach is breathtaking and the location of the restaurant terrace allows you to take it all in - while being sheltered behind plexiglass window barriers.  Place is always busy so best to book.

Our last day.  We have to visit the beach at Benagil to watch the chaos of all the boats visiting the famous cave.  Great entertainment.

Well, with our limbs browned, my hair a shade lighter and our lungs filled with sea air, it's sadly time to pack.  Just time for one last meal at the Pashmina Restaurant.  I had to wear my Pashmina!  Excellent tandoori.

We have had another wonderful holiday in Portugal.  Ate logo e forca Portugal.