It's easy to make assumptions. Two quite separate friends balked when I announced we were going on a River Cruise. The expectation is that on this type of journey you will be with people who are much older and less adventurous than you. (Bit ageist). But a trip cruising down the beautiful Douro Valley in Portugal would be different, surely? There was no need to worry.
Our river cruise vessel, MS Porto Mirante awaited our arrival at Vila Nova de Gaia, which is the south side of the Douro River (Porto is on the northside). It's technically not Porto but it's close enough. In Portuguese, the name of the city is spelled with a definite article ("o Porto"; English: the Port). Consequently, its English name Oporto evolved from a misinterpretation of the oral.
We boarded the ship and checked into our room. The process was fast and easy. Our luggage was delivered from the coach to our room. The Riviera cruise boat MS Porto Mirante was like a floating five-star hotel. Our lovely room no 312 on the Upper Diamond Deck was so lovely. The boat is brand new. Our room was compact but there was plenty of room for storage. It had a floor to ceiling sliding glass door. The bathroom had a rain shower with good water pressure and we always had hot water available. There was also free Wi Fi and a bottle of sparkling wine in the fridge.
Afternoon tea was served in the bar lounge and at 18.30 Captain Richardo, Hotel Manager Roland and Cruise Director Lale invited us for a Safety Briefing, Life Onboard and Head of Departments presentation. The service and staff are superb. Absolutely brilliant. Everyone is helpful and friendly, nothing is too much trouble. And they all seem to have a great sense of humour. Which is always impressive in a second language. The super-talented chef ensured that both the variety of meals on offer and culinary standards were high throughout the cruise. This is a slick operation. Extremely well organised. Everything runs like clockwork. Dinner was served shortly after the safety drill and we chose to eat in the Sky Lounge with a fabulous night-time view of Porto.
After a very comfortable night and a delicious buffet breakfast we departed at 9 a.m. for a Porto city tour. Unfortunately, the traffic in Porto was extremely busy so our sightseeing was rather curtailed due to an 11.45 a.m. sailing - necessary for reserved lock timings.
Our guide, Phillipa, for the whole tour was excellent. First stop on the tour is the Porto Cathedral, one of the city's oldest monuments. The cathedral is located on a hilltop and showcases incredible views of the old red roofed city.
When we first spotted the students, at the Cathedral, we thought: "They look like Harry Potter characters" wearing black capes, crisp white dress shirts and sleek black ties. "Hey Phillipa: What is this sorcery we are seeing around us". Answer: Its the first day of term for University students and they are wearing the traditional 'Capa e Batina' uniforms. The red t-shirt students belong to the first year at University. The ones in black are from the 2nd year on.
These uniforms did, in fact, inspire the uniforms worn by Harry Potter and his classmates at Hogwarts. The uniforms are an old tradition that dates back to the 18th century and there's no denying the resemblance. J.K. Rowling would have often seen these students walking around the city when she lived here.
After the cathedral, our group walked to the nearby Sao Bento Railway Station, famous for its beautiful detailed tile murals. There are approximately 20,000 azulejo tiles on the walls that date as far back as 1905. Sao Bento railway station in Porto has one of the most unexpected interior decoration schemes of any twentieth century station. It's quite something, isn't it?
From the outside, Sao Bento station belies little of its extraordinary internal decoration. It's a perfectly pleasant Beaux Arts building, though nothing obviously special. It is an early work by architect Jose Marques da Silva and it opened for business in 1916. The real fun however, is all on the inside. The frieze around the top of the main hall depicts a history of transport. If you look really closely in the corner of the main hall you can see a train.
The use of ceramic tiling has been popular in the Iberian peninsula for centuries. It is frequently used both on the inside and outside of buildings, especially towards the south. Apparently the tiles have helpful thermal properties, keeping rooms cool in the hot climate. The tiling was created by Jorge Colaco, one of Portugal's foremost azulejo artists. His work can still be found in public buildings across Portugal and in Windsor Castle in the UK.
The panels at Sao Bento station feature views of Portuguese history, landscapes and people and give it a quite remarkable interior ambience. Standing in the main hall is a bit like being inside a gigantic crockery cabinet.
We noticed some tiles were covered with a sheet of translucent fabric. The covered tiles turned desaturated, and lost their vividness. Our guide explained the sheets were to protect the tiles from coming loose, impacted by the vibration from the new subway construction outside.
We returned to the ship and departed from Porto at 11.45a.m. We went up to the Sundeck and watched the world slowly pass us by. Lunch was a BBQ on deck and we finished just in time to witness the ship pass through the first river lock on the Douro River. Crestuma Lock, with a high lift of 14m/46 ft. Book shape gate! It's a very interesting procedure. The ship approaches the lock and the door opens. It then enters the lock compartment and the doors close. The lock fills with water and this lifts the ship. Once it reaches the top, the opposite side door opens and the ship departs at the higher level (or lower level if the ship is travelling downriver).
These river boats are built for the tight locks and our Captain carefully guided the MS Porto Mirante into the narrow lock with only a few inches to spare on each side. Look at how close the boat gets to the walls inside the river lock! You can literally touch the wall as the ship slowly rises up or down.
We spent the rest of the afternoon on the sundeck, soaking up the unique landscapes. Sailing up and down the Douro is enchanting and the sundeck a perfect viewing platform for the river's remarkable scenery. As it flows through a 2,000 year legacy of winemaking, the river meanders around the sun-soaked slopes of its famous valley vineyards, from which, in times gone by, flat-bottom boats would brave the rapids to carry the wine to the river mouth. Now tamed and shelved with five dams and locks, it is a serene journey from the port wine cellars, bell towers and beaux-art buildings of Porto, to the uppermost Portuguese port on the river, Barca d'Alva. In between, we sail beneath the Douro's seven bridges, cross the Carrapatelo, the highest of the dams, float through super-scenic UNESCO listed landscapes, and go ashore to medieval villages, the Mateus Manor House, enjoy wine and food at Quinta, and visit Lamego's Moorish castle. Photos just don't do this region justice; you must see it for yourself!
At 15.45 it was time to enjoy High Tea and celebrate Riviera's 40th anniversary with a special cake before the next lock.
At 16.40 p.m. we entered the Carrapatelo Lock, the deepest in Europe, with a high lift of 35m/115 ft with a Guillotine shape gate! Stunning. An amazing experience going through the Carrapatelo Lock.
The water level rises (or falls) 35m, with 190,000 cubic metres of water flowing downstream each time the lock is used. This is used to generate hydroelectricity, so is not wasted.
At 19.30 hrs we arrived in Lamego and departed on a 10 minute coach drive to Quinta da Pacheca for a tasty buffet dinner at the wine estate. Checking out the port production......
We moored in Lamego overnight. Durma bem....
The next day we departed for Vego Terron at 06.45 hrs. and at 07.30 we entered our third upstream river Bagauste Lock, a high lift of 28m/84 ft. Guillotine shape gate! This is the third lock of five on the Douro. Amazing engineering. It is as impressive as the other dams (not the highest this time). If you appreciate Waterwork engineering, you will love this trip. When on a River Cruise, there is only space for the one boat in the lock. Watch out for the free shower on the top deck!!
One of my favourite days onboard was spent cruising down the oh-so peaceful Douro watching the terraced vineyards and rocky outcrops go by. While bird-and-train spotting, there's plenty of wildlife to see - and not just on the ship's dance floor after a few glasses of vinho verde. (The train line runs along the riverside and is visible part of the way, disappearing into tunnels and inland). The scenery along the world's oldest demarcated wine region and UNESCO site is simply stunning. The temperature hits 30 degrees and some guests dip into the plunge pool.
Another lock at 10.30 hrs. The Valeira Lock, with a high lift of 33m/109 ft Guillotine shape gate! The Valeira Dam has a lock 85 metres long, 23 metres wide and a difference in water levels of about 32 metres. The power station produces an average of 663Gwatts per annum. Either side of the dams are rocky escarpments which then slowly change to steeply sloping hills with vineyards galore.
The bridges across the river are quite beautiful. The next photo shows a railway bridge which is extremely low, so that the ship had to lower not only its bridge but also the Sky restaurant!! The Captain merely had to press a button and the entire structure sank on a set of hydraulic supports. Even with everything lowered, there was only a few inches of clearance under the bridge.
And at 13.00 hrs. yet another Lock. The Pocinho Lock with a high lift of 22m/72ft with a Book shape gate! This was the 4th dam to be built and it was constructed between 1978 and 1983. It's about 180 km from the mouth of the river in Porto.
There are daily excursions to various towns, vineyards, historical sites, churches - and you can opt in or out of these. There's no pressure. One downside for some of the guests was that because of the nature of the Douro Valley, these are all coach trips so a fair amount of time is spent on a coach, the roads are narrow and twisting but the views incredible. But, as I said, you can pick and choose exactly what you want to do and the excursions are not obligatory. We departed by coach for a 60 minute drive to Castelo Rodrigo but some guests stayed onboard and continued sailing upstream.
Castelo Rodrigo - The Secret Historic Village on the hill.. Castelo Rodrigo is one of the historical hill top villages in Portugal. Apparently roughly 60 people still live here. On the hills surrounding the village are almond, olive trees and vineyards.
The village has typically medieval and narrow streets and facades from the 16th century as well as Manuelistic window ornaments. It is known for being a place where Jews, Arabs and Christians have co-existed in peace and harmony over the past few centuries. After walking through the narrow streets of the village, we visited the small medieval church and then the ruins of the castle.
On the coach journey back to the ship we stopped to watch the Vultures.
We arrived back in Vega Terron, where we moored overnight and enjoyed cocktails, dinner and music and dancing with Ivo on the piano. Um bom sono....
On Sunday morning we departed by coach for a 2 hour drive to Salamanca. On arrival we had 2 hours of free time so we headed to the Museo Art Nouveau y Art Deco - Casa Lis. No photographs are allowed inside but the building and artwork is fantastic! This stained glass building hosts art nouveau and art deco items. From a weird doll collection and figurines, to gorgeous pieces of glasswork, this museum is a highlight for a Salamanca Day Trip.
We then stepped into Casa de las Conchas. This 16th century Gothic palace is covered in seashell motifs and is now an exhibition space and library. The inside is gorgeous!
Our guide for the morning met us at the wonderful Plaza Mayor (considered the heart of Salamanca. It's said to be one of the most beautiful plazas in Spain) for a 60 minute walking tour of Salamanca.
Salamanca is very beautiful. It reminds me of Cambridge with ancient university and buildings in similar coloured stone.
This was the longest and one of the most memorable days on the cruise itinerary. The Old City of Salamanca has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Three religions in one building.
Endless rows of Jamon Iberico, Sparin's celebrated cured ham. (Fed on acorns).
Walking along the streets of this fine city is an absolute joy. I love the architecture and the colours of the buildings. Quite a few have inscriptions on the walls which are called vitores. Centuries ago they were written in bulls blood after the students had passed exams. I suppose due to the moderate climate in this area, the writing is still clear to see.
And the marks where they sharpened their swords.
Our tour headed for the University and stopped at the entrance which is a wonderfully carved facade with a hidden frog in a small square. Everyone is, of course, challenged to find it. (If you need a hint, the frog is on one of the skulls on the right-side pillars...).
We visited the incredible New Cathedral, built between 16th and 18th centuries in both Gothic and Baroque styles. It's one of the most impressive Cathedral's we've visited. It is joined together with the Old Cathedral that dates back to 12th century.
Outside Salamanca Cathedral. It's so big we couldn't fit it all in the frame!
Inside Salamanca Cathedral we are dwarfed by the towering columns. This church is huge! Stunning architecture and detailed ceiling in the Cathedral.
Stork nest.
One of the navigation signs for pilgrims on their way to Camino de Santiago.
Lunch was local tapas and other Spanish specialities at the lovely Sant Esteban Hotel, followed by an excellent Flamenco show. Ole y Ole.
On our return to the ship at Vega Terron we immediately departed for Pocinho where we moored overnight.
After dinner we joined Lale in the Bar Lounge for a Quiz. Bring a pen and a brainy friend to have some fun! We didn't win.
All aboard! At 07.45 hrs. on Monday we set sail downstream for Pinhao, re-entering the Pocinho and Valeira Lock. Upon arrival in Pinhao we departed by coach for a stunning 30 minute drive to enjoy a tasty lunch at Quinta da Avessada. Bom apetite.
Any volunteers to tread grapes?
Phillipa, our lovely guide, enjoying a quiet five minutes.
We left the coach early on our return to the ship to walk around the train station at Pinhao. It was built in the 19th century. It was worth a walk around to see the 24 different tile patterns placed on every wall in 1937. The themes of the tiles represent historic scenes in the /Douro Valley. This includes the grape harvest, foot-stomping, and the rabelo boats transporting wine downriver. The station also sells wine!
Overnight in Pinhao, a very amusing Raffle this evening followed by Disco Night.
After breakfast we joined our coach again for a scenic 45 minute drive to Mateus Palace house and gardens. The ship departed for Cais da Lamego. The Casa de Mateus is a gem other than the "art" installation when you first enter the grounds. Phillipa told us it is called the sleeping lady but we re-named it "legless lady - too much Mateus Rose".
In so many old houses, the furniture is not original and the family no longer lives there. Here, the 15th and 16th generations of the family inhabit part of the house. Our enthusiastic guide presented an excellent tour in English. Many of the rooms have ornately decorated ceilings and trimmings.
This manor is one of the most beautiful examples of Italian Baroque period architecture in Portugal and it is surrounded by beautiful gardens and vineyards.
For those of a certain older age, the name Mateus may bring back memories of your earliest bottles of mediocre inexpensive wine while growing up. This is the same Mateus as seen on the label. The family sold their name to the winery which at one point accounted for 40% of the Portuguese wine exported.
I much prefer the old style of bottle to the new one.
Won't be sticking a candle in the new one!!
We rejoined MS Porto Mirante now in Lamego.
After lunch on board it was time for another excursion. This time to Lamego to visit Our Lady of Remedies church. For the guests that stay on board the ship moves on to the Pier of Peso da Regua.
En route we pass the Don - The Sandeman, drawn in 1928 by George Massiot Brown, is one of the first trademark images ever created. The Don in a Portuguese student's black cape and bearing a wide-brimmed Spanish caballero's hat is recognised world-wide as the symbol of prestige.
The coach dropped us at the top of Our Lady of Remedies church and we enjoyed the views as we slowly walked down into the centre of town. (You are supposed to walk up). There are 686 steps. It took over 100 years to complete. Beautiful blue tile friezes on each of the nine landings. An amazing religious site on one of the traditional ways to Santiago da Compostela.
We return to the ship in order to dress up for Captain Ricardo's cocktails followed by the Chef's Signature Gala Dinner. It was an excellent evening.
We moored overnight in Peso da Regua.
The next morning we set sail for Cais da Pala at 07.15 hrs. Just after breakfast Phil said the boat is turning around. That's strange. He went up on deck to discover we had to return to Lamego because of the wild fires. At 10.30 we set off again towards Porto. One of the less-mentioned issues facing Douro river cruises is fire. Massive wildfires swept through the region during the summer of 2017 and it was happening again with columns of smoke choking the sky and water bombers roaring overhead in an attempt to control the fires. It was 30 degrees for the whole of our cruise and hot and dry summers create all the necessary conditions for potentially devastating wildfires. More than 23,000 acres of land has burned between Porto and Aveiro in the north. Police have closed motorways between the capital, Lisbon, and Porto and train connections have been suspended. Our trip to Guimaraes and the Port cellars in Gaia were cancelled but no-one on board moaned.
Whilst Portugal burns!!
In the evening, back in Porto, a Portuguese Tuna group entertained us. In Spain, Portugal and Latin American countries, a tuna is a group of university students in traditional university dress who play traditional instruments and sing serenades. They were very good.
And we met some lovely, like-minded people on board. The cruise was fun. We had a great time.
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