Our sailing adventure, the journey of a lifetime, saw us sailing to various destinations in the Istrian Peninsular:-
Venice (Italy) - Zadar (Croatia) - Hvar (Croatia) - Dubrovnik (Croatia) - Kotor (Montenegro) - Corfu (Greece) - At sea - Taormina (Sicily, Italy) - Capri (Italy)- Sorrento (Italy) - Civitavecchia (Rome, Italy).
VENEZIA, ITALY!
As Truman Capote said "Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go",
and our first sight of Venice was arriving via the Grand Canal. As the name suggests, it has a grand feeling to it, and is surrounded by the most scenic architecture.
We then had a delicious meal at Ristorante Cherubino. The best part about being in Venice are the lovely alley ways, which are so easy to get lost in, but amazingly Phil managed to find the restaurant. You also have to see St. Mark's Square at night, the later, the better. We practically had the whole place to ourselves. No tourists, no pigeons! Very romantic.
We also visited T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Historically a caravanserai for Germanic traders replete with long-lost frescoes by Titian and Giorgione, but more recently Venice's rather forlorn main post office, the Fondaco dei Tedeschi emerged from a radical (chic) makeover in 2016 as the city's glitziest tax-free shopping mall. If melting your credit card for designer togs isn't your thing, there is still a very good reason to drop by. The view from the roof terrace will blow you away.
Boarding the Royal Clipper in Venice, we knew we were in for a voyage of a lifetime, such a magnificent sailing ship with it's five masts standing tall and erect.
and lovely inside too.
Venezia to Zadar 152.2 NM
ZADAR, CROATIA
Word had obviously spread that a Tall Ship was coming to Zadar, a rare event because of the storm, and local families were there to greet us as we came alongside. So lovely to wave back at all the children standing in the beautiful sunshine.
In Zadar you can wander quiet streets of marble, without other cruise visitors.
The film director and master of suspense, Alfred Hitchcock was reputedly drawn to the city to witness the spectacular sunsets. He apparently described it as "the most beautiful sunset in the world", but stopped short of ever making a film here.
There's also a giant, solar-powered public dancefloor. A what?! To celebrate such magnificent sunsets, an artist, Nikola Basic, decided to build what is called the "Monument to the Sun" on the edge of the Zadar waterfront. All day a 22-metre disc, supposed to represent the sun, soaks up solar rays only to dazzle people with them in the form of coloured light patterns as night falls. (Sadly we left before seeing this). Smaller discs representing other planets in the solar system also radiate their own rainbow glow.
The Old Town of Zadar is a historical pic'n'mix. Prefer Roman, Byzantine or Venetian architecture? Zadar has prominent examples of each, from the Venetian tower to the columns of the Roman forum, which date back to 1 BC, to the impressive walls and city gates that helped make it once the largest city fortress in the Republic of Venice. Stones from the Roman Forum were used to build the neighbouring rotunda of the 9th-century, Byzantine-style Church of St. Donat, and are clearly visible. It stands out for it's simple, round shape and dominant position.
Zadar's 12th-century cathedral is almost as attractive, with three beautiful portals and a bell-tower.
And the locals came again at dusk to wave us off with some of the local children running and shouting "Wait for us".
As promised by Capt. Sergey setting sail at dusk was a wonderful experience, standing on deck behind the bridge, watching the Captain and crew doing what sailing-ship crews have done for hundreds of years.
A memorable experience conjuring up all sorts of emotions within the passengers.
It looked unreal at first sight with all the sails out, a backdrop from a movie. I half felt they would pack away the sails and turn on the engines once out of sight of land. But no, if possible, we sailed. They cheat a bit, using electricity to move the yards, but the sails themselves are moved by hand.
Zadar to Hvar 120.1 NM
HVAR - CROATIA - at anchor.
Arrival: 10.00 Departure: 19.00
Sunrise 5.18 Sunset 20.38
Hvar is enchanting with it's 13th century walls and winding stone streets. We have visited Hvar before so this time we took an easy stroll from Hvar's square, along the waterfront to the Franciscan monastery. Within the peace and quiet of the monastery walls there are museum exhibits from Roman ships lost at sea - very interesting. Also a magnificent painting of the Last Supper (2 x 8m). One more rarity that makes the monastery famous is the 300 year old Cypress tree that is located in the garden of the monastery.
We then called at the Adriana Hotel rooftop bar for great views of the main quay of Hvar.
After lunch Phil and I caught the Zodiac rib from the back of the Royal Clipper to the Carpe Diem Beach Club. A lovely place to visit for a swim in Stipanska Bay and yet for many it is associated (quite understandably) with it's phenomenal nightlife and Full Moon parties. In fact whilst we were there they were decorating the place for a Christmas Party that night. The whole works with Christmas Trees and Snow in June.
Hvar to Dubrovnik 88.4 NM
DUBROVNIK - CROATIA - at anchor.
Arrival: 14.00 Departure: 23.45
Sunrise 5.14 Sunset 20.29
We had a swim stop today but it was very rough so I just watched Phil. I was worried I wouldn't be able to climb back aboard!!!
Dubrovnik to Kotor 44.7 NM
KOTOR - MONTENEGRO - at anchor.
Arrival 09.00 Departure 16.00
Sunrise 5.14 Sunset 20.25
We were up on deck on we approached Kotor. It's not actually a fiord but it looks like one - stunning scenery.
We decided to do the steps but didn't go all the way up - only a quarter of the way to the church but even from here the views were stunning. (1300 steps to the top).
The whole coast stretching from Ulcinj towards Kotor used to be a pirates' nest. The pirates demonstrated fear and terror on the sea, especially during the XVI and XVII century. The pirates bands were so strong that from day to day they attacked different trading ships which had been sailing under various flags, so that they were robbing and then quickly sailing into their shelters.
As you enter the Old Town you'll see a plaque with these words inscribed that describe the history and attitude of the town.
"What belongs to others we don't want, what is ours we will never surrender."
That night on the Royal Clipper we all became Pirates. Dress to impress for dinner as a pirate!
Kotor to Corfu 201.1 NM (We were under full sail with 17 knots of wind and achieved a speed of 9.6 knots They had emptied the swimming pool to stop it sploshing around - quite a few pirates retired to their cabins early due to the swell. The ship does roll with a swell if about 2 metres but normally nothing - just a gentle rock a bye baby.)
Kotor to Corfu 201.1NM
CORFU - GREECE - alongside
Arrival 12.30 Departure 22.30
Sunrise 5.17 Sunset 20.14
Local Corfu time was one hour ahead of the ship's time and whilst in Corfu we remained on ship's time only and did not alter our watches!!
Pilot coming on board and flag to show pilot is on board.
We moored alongside one of those large sterilised containers called a cruise ship, the Westerdamm.
Also moored was a Seven Seas boat and a Costa boat so Corfu, as a result, was heaving.
We headed off to the Achilleion Palace - a beautiful mansion set on a hilltop with superb views and lots of statues. Fortunately, the Palace was quite quiet for us, I think we were just behind the passengers from the above boats. The guide said we were extremely lucky. There is no furniture but the décor is remarkable, especially the grand staircase. The picture above the main staircase is superb and has warnings of what was to come, if you look in the right place. Also the James Bond film For Your Eyes only was filmed here.
We then returned to Corfu town for a walking tour along the maze of charming narrow lanes, ending with some free time around the 'Spianada' - the town's main square which is lined with cafes. We chose the Josephine Café in the arches Liston. Josephine De Beauhamais was the wife of Emperor Napoleon Bonaporte.
Corfu to Taormina 275.5 NM
AT SEA all of Tuesday, July 4th.
Sunrise 5.21 Sunset 20.16
A lovely relaxing day soaking up some Mediterranean sunshine and reading.
Phil and Clive also ascended up to the 'crow's nest' (with harness!). Rosie and I decided to top up our tans instead. And we were welcome to visit the bridge too.
Afterwards the evening fun was self-generated with the Guest and Crew Talent Show - Brilliant - followed by dancing and nearly everyone got up to dance.
We then left the fun and games to go Star Gazing with the 3rd Officer Nicolas on the Bridge.
TAORMINA - Sicily, ITALY - at anchor
Arrival 08.00 Departure 17.00
Sunrise 5.39 Sunset 20.24
The Royal Clipper moored off the coast of Giardini Naxos and once ashore we caught the shuttle service to Taormina. One of the smartest and most exclusive small towns in Italy. Retaining much of it's medieval charm it is wonderfully situated on a high balcony facing Mt. Etna, which was smoking. Its main street is lined by smart, designer boutiques and exclusive jewellers. Tiny side streets, some of which are so narrow you can touch both sides at once lead to family-run restaurants.
Taormina's greatest claim to fame though is it's amazing theatre, a legacy of the ancient Greeks. Wonderfully preserved and still in use today, it has a panoramic view of Etna, Europe's highest volcano, as it's awesome natural backdrop!
Bellisimo.
We sailed through the Strait of Messina or Stretto di Messina in Italian. A very narrow strip of water between Italy and Sicily. It is renowned for its many navigational hazards, whirlpools and the odd sea monster or two. It has very strong tidal currents that vary massively producing eddies and a bubbling effect in the water known locally as Bastardi's. I don't think you need to translate that. Add to that high winds funnelled between the mountains, and ferries continually crossing your path. Planes were also fighting forest fires. As terrible as it is for them to deal with the fires the passengers on board did rather enjoy following the plane as it made its circuitous route from the sea and back, over and over again. The plane was red and yellow and would fly low and dip into the straits to pick up water and then dump it on the fires to cheers from our passengers.
We enjoyed another magnificent sunset to port as we sailed northwards past the volcanic Aeolian Islands and Stromboli.
Sailing around Stromboli Volcano needs to be on every sailors bucket list!
We went up on deck at about 11.30 p.m. as we approached Stromboli anxious with anticipation. Would we see anything? What does a flare-up look like? Would we actually be able to see Lava?
With massive anticipation, we all sat staring into the darkness admiring the dark outline of the volcano. We were very close. After 20 minutes or so, nothing happened. And then something happened. The top of the volcano turned orange. Another 10 minutes went by and then suddenly, a massive flare shot up, perhaps 50 metres into the sky and lava spewed out of the mouth of the volcano. I couldn't believe my eyes - we were watching a volcanic eruption from the absolutely serene surroundings of a sailing ship. Furthermore, the backdrop was the Milky Way. The sky was blanketed with stars. I kept thinking, "how lucky can I be?!" We then watched a bit more activity.
How many people get to see such a sight? I felt massively grateful. We were stopped at the base of Stromboli!
Taormina to Capri 187.8 NM
CAPRI - ITALY - at anchor
Arrival 11.00 Departure 23.00
Sunrise 5.38 Sunset 20.36
Today we had to use local tenders not the ship's tenders (Mafia control?)
Capri is the outpost of the peninsula of Sorrento and is called the Jewel of the Bay of Naples because of its impressive scenery, clear skies and beautiful climate.
Our excursion today was on a private motor boat for a scenic circumnavigation of the island to see some of its beautiful natural sights, the White, Green and Coral Grottoes, the Faraglioni Rocks and Punta del Carena.
After leaving the boat, our guided tour continued by minibus to the two main parts of the Island, Capri and Anacapri.
In Anacapri we took the chair lift up to Monte Solaro, with breathtaking views of the entire island, the Bay of Naples and the Gulf of Salerno.
In Capri we visited the famous Piazzetta - the main square of Capri - then explored the expensive shops but didn't buy anything!! A Capri taxi.
We then caught the funicular back down to the port.
Capri - Sorrento 11.8 NM
SORRENTO - ITALY - at anchor
Arrival 08.00 Departure 17.00
Sunrise 5.39 Sunset 20.35
This morning we woke up anchored beneath Sorrento, the town which found fame during the late 18th century when it became part of the 'Grand Tour' for Europe's aristocracy.
Today we joined the trip to Pompeii (transfer approx. 1 hour) where we had a guided tour of this ancient site. Pompeii was buried in metres of ash and pumice after the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. The guided tour was only 2 hours but one could spend all day here. The ruins are spread over several acres so we could only see some parts of it in the limited time that we had. Pompeii is absolutely fascinating! The tour guide was so knowledgeable and we did manage to see and learn quite a lot. How forward thinking this civilisation was. They had in house plumbing, under floor heating, stunning architecture and art, perfect streets with pedestrian crossings. In awe of all we saw. Wished we had more time to amble.
Gorgeous shops - could have spent a fortune.
We then returned to the ship for Phil and Clive's Engine Room visit with the Chief Engineer Igor. Apparently, it was very hot down there and they don't know how they work in the Engine Room.
Sorrento to Civitavecchia 160.2 NM
CIVITAVECCHIA - Rome, ITALY. - alongside
Arrival 07.00
Sunrise 5.44 Sunset 20.50
TOTAL 1241.8 NM
Today we disembarked from The Royal Clipper. We had such a great time aboard it was hard to leave the vessel.
Capt.Sergiey Utitsyn and his crew, especially Anita and Monja, are to be congratulated. Everyone worked so hard to make our holiday a success. The food and dining room waiters were excellent and our Cabin Steward was always waiting to tidy up after us. Nothing was too much trouble.
It was a one hour drive to Rome and the highlight of the day was an included guided tour of the city on the air conditioned coach. It was 39 degrees so an excellent way to see Rome. We then had some free time to explore at leisure before being transferred to our hotel. One day is far too brief - after all, Rome wasn't built in a day.
Monument of Vittorio Emanuele II
The Colosseum
Castel Sant'Angelo
From the Piazza Navona, whose centre piece displays the spectacular Fountain of Four Rivers, we walked along the river to Piazza del Popolo and climbed up to hill to Villa Borghese Park to experience one of the best views Rome has to offer.
Then after lunch we visited the Pantheon. A former Roman temple, now a church. The most fascinating part of the Pantheon is its giant dome, with its famous hole in the top. (The eye of the Pantheon). And, of course, we had to stop for an ice cream Fior di latte flavour is heaven.
And so our cruise finished in Rome at the magical Bernini Bristol Hotel. The famous Via Veneto is a road like 5th Ave in New York for high end fashion and shopping. It joins right to the circle at the Bernini fountain, right in front of the hotel. The artist, Bernini, is known for sculpting the Main Altar at St. Peter's Cathedral in Vatican City, among other wonderful pieces of art. From the roof top bar at the hotel, you have a beautiful view of St. Peter's Cathedral and much of Rome.
It was a short walk to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish steps.
The Spanish steps. With its irregular butterfly design, the beautiful "Scalina Spagna" are just one of the must see place in Rome. It was a great place to just sit at the bar overlooking the steps and enjoy the atmosphere. The Spanish steps unique design and elegance made it a popular place for artists and their presence attracted many beautiful women to the area, hoping to be models. This in turn, attracted rich Romans and travellers. Now the steps are crowded with people of all kinds of backgrounds.
And, of course, no trip to Rome is complete with a visit to Trevi Fountain. One of the most stunning fountains in the world. The central feature of the monument is a chariot in the shape of a shell, drawn by seahorses with Triton as their guide. Before the enormous central niche stands Oceanus. To the side are the statues of Abundance and Salubrity. The horses represent waves, one rough waters and the other calm. It is said that if you throw a coin over your shoulder into the water, you will be sure to return to Rome. An estimated 3,000 euros in coins are thrown into the fountain every day! The Trevi is fed by the Aqua Virgo, so named because the source was found in springs at Salone, by a virgin woman in 19 BC.
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