The biggest of the Balearics, Mallorca has long been a favourite of the world's travel pack. It's got extremely good looks on it's side, after all. We're talking tiny inlets, sweeping bays and sandy coves, all lapped by turquoise waters. And away from the coast, it's a case of sweet-smelling pine forests, hidden hamlets and jagged mountain peaks, so let's explore........
Day One:-
First on Phil's hit list was a walk to the Watch Tower which is visible from our balcony. It took him 40 minutes to walk to the tower and a further 15 mins to the end of the headland. Initially all tarmac and easy going but the last bit was rocky and slippery so good shoes necessary. And all before breakfast!!!
The directions from Biniorella, where we were staying to the Watch Tower are:
3 km
Leaving Biniorella turn left downhill on road. At roundabout turn right signposted to Camp de Mar and continue downhill until you come to a left-hand bend, on the corner of which, is a flight of steps leading down to the sea. At the bottom of the steps turn left onto the promenade and follow round until you come to a sundial turnaround. At this point continue along the promenade in front of the Playa Hotel and then take the boardwalk, which finishes, by the La Siesta Restaurant. Here turn left a short distance uphill until you reach the road. Turn right and continue uphill to the next T-junction. Go right here and follow the road until you come to a fork leading uphill. Take this fork and in 30 metres ascend a steep flight of cement steps on your left. At the top turn right and ignoring a road to the left continue uphill until you can join a rough path alongside a stone wall. Within 50 metres you will come to a gate through a stone-faced wall. Go through the gate leaving a well-made stone boundary wall on your left and continue steeply uphill until you shortly meet a crossway of paths at the brow. Here turn right and ignoring a path diagonally left which breaks through a fence, stay on the path as it winds its way uphill. In a few minutes you will catch glimpses of the watchtower above you through the trees. Continue straight ahead leaving the fence always on your left until you reach the tower. From here it is possible to continue to the end of the headland following a rough and stony path, with occasional stone marker cairns. In order to follow the easiest path it is necessary to go through the broken fences on a couple of occasions. Remember that this fence could be repaired in the future and access may change.
These watchtowers were used to control the coast and to protect the town against pirate attacks.
The Torre des Cap Andritxol was built between 1580 and 1582 and was restored by Claudia Schiffer's family, and this watchtower enjoys the most privileged views. Standing 180 metres above sea level on the promontory that separates Camp de Mar and Cala Fornells.
Palma embraces the sea, and a stroll along it's waterfront provides ample proof that this long-standing love affair is far from over. So we decided to do this easy walk which follows the curve of the bay from it's passenger ship terminal to the city centre and it is particularly enjoyable in the early evening.
We left at 5.30 to avoid the traffic - schools finish at 5 pm and parked, free of charge, in the road by Club de Mar just after the cruise liners. This walk is really a social climb through Palma's seafaring classes. Hardworking fishing vessels give way to hobby boats and weekend craft, rust buckets and tourist galleons are overshadowed by gin places and Mediterranean cruise ships. The Club de Mar is where many of these pleasure boats moor - a captivating sight for anyone drawn to the romance of the sea but spare a moment to look across the bay at Palma cathedral.
Passeig Maritim - though bordered by a busy road, this waterside promenade allows walkers to progess peacefully round the harbour. There is also a 3 mile cycle track which runs alongside. The remains of five windmills dominate the skyline and on the horizon you can see the imposing silhouette of Castell de Bellver. Across the road rise the mighty bastions that once protected Palma but now contains the contemporary arts museum.
Port Pesquer - Lines of vivid blue nets strung along the quayside mark the entrance to Palma's fishing port, where fishermen paint boats and mend nets.
Passeig de Sagrera. Lined with tall palms, this pedestrian avenue is flanked by historic buildings recalling Palma's maritime past. An ancient gate to the port, Porta Vella del Moll has been reconstructed to the left of the 15th century La Llotja where our walk ended. Do pop inside and try to imagine the merchants of 500 years ago haggling over silk, spices and silver. Next door is the galleried Consulat del Mar, built in the 17th century as a court to resolve trading disputes (thoughts of Brexit). Decorated with flags and cannons, it is now used by the Balearic Islands' government.
Tapas territory - As evening began to roll in we sniffed out the Calle Apuntadores, (walk up Calle San Joan opposite and then turn right). This area is lined with tapas bars and we chose Le Cueva and eeny-meeny-miney-mo-ed our way through the menu. Three tapas between the two of us was plenty. Afterwards we popped in to Abaco on the corner. A famed Baroque-style cocktail bar, situated in an elegant town house in Palma's historic quarter, it is a mix of Gothic splendour, kitsch décor and outrageous opulence. A spectacular entrance hall bursting with 18th century antique furniture, flower displays, portraits and candelabras weeping wax, has you wondering if Miss Havisham from Great Expectations - or perhaps King Louis XV - will pop up at any moment. Apparently at 11.30 p.m. on Fridays, spiralling rose petals descend from above to musical accompaniment for precisely 3 mins and 44 seconds. Unfortunately, we missed seeing this - too late for us OAPs. Essentially a bar and expensive but well worth it. The main bar area is actually the old courtyard and would have been the stables. Perfect for pre-dinner drinks or somewhere to sit after supper. Opens at 8 pm.
So with full bellies we walked back to our car and our thoughts turned to the next day.
Day Two:-
As it was Wednesday at 10 a.m. we drove to Andratx town proper as it is market day -lots of the streets are closed off to make way for countless trestle tables and stalls. Talk about an all-out assault on the senses. You could buy anything and everything from hams and fruit to designer handbags (fake, of course) thro' to clothes, saucepans and shoes.
After all this shopping we drove five minutes down the road to the chic, yacht-filled marina that is Port Andratx and stopped for a coffee.
From Port Andratx we then took the PM103 down to Sant Elm. This little-known spot boasts a dinky sandy beach and is backed by a handful of restaurants that do a mean line in paella. The Hostel Dragonera had been recommended and we were not disappointed. The views and food were very good. Throw in a gelateria or two from down the road and you've got all the ingredients needed for a lazy afternoon in the sun.
Day Three:-
A dose of culture today by way of Bellver Castle. It's tucked away in the west of Palma on a pine-cloaked hill on Carrer Camilo Jose Cela. Talk about well looked after - it's hard to believe this fort has been standing proud for 700 odd years. It's main claim to fame? It holds the title as Spain's one and only circular castle. Plus it serves up stellar views of Palma Bay.
For lunch we ate at Meson Ca'n Pedro in Genova. Real value for money. Virtually all Spanish diners, which says it all. Noisy, busy restaurant in the hills. A little off the beaten track. Book and ask for a table on the terrace. Casual place, go with the flow.
Day Four:-
Castell d'Alaro. Walk to a ruined castle with spectacular views.
Nervous drivers should not even think about tackling the 10 km hairpin road to Orient from Bunyola.
(Don't miss the turning to Orient in the centre of Bunyola - sign is on left hand side of wall). There is a much easier approach from Alaro but those who make it to this village are rewarded with a marvellous sight - one of Mallorca's tiniest hamlets nestling among olive trees at the foot of Puig d'Alfabia. Park close to the L'Hermitage hotel and then follow a small path opposite L'Hermitage hotel, signposed to Alaro Castle. The walk takes about 1 1/2 hours and is stunningly beautiful and the views from Alaro Castle magnificent.
Then on the descent where paths converge go down to Es Verger restaurant for roast lamb to die for. Es Verger is famous for one thing, paletilla de cordero, shoulder of lamb to you and me, which is marinated in mild spices. The meat is spoon tender with that unmistakeable flavour that only cooking for three hours in a wood-fired oven can give. Es Verger is open every day of the year, and closes at 8 pm and doesn't take reservations. Extremely rustic.
Back in the car, we then headed towards Soller. Instead of taking the express toll tunnel that cuts through the Tramuntana mountains, we opted for the more picturesque route up and over the rocky summit. And really glad we did. Granted, the hairpin bends were a bit hairy at times, but the views out across the meadows and olive groves were fabulous. Plus, we saved a few euros in the process. We then headed west driving along the zigzag-y Ma-10 road to Deia. All terracotta rooftops and cobblestone streets, this coastal town high in the hills is ridiculously pretty. My recommendation? Head up to the church that stands guard over the higgledy-piggledy houses for some wow-factor sea views. We then drove along the coastal road all the way down to Andratx and home. A pretty exhausting day but that said, the views of the Mediterranean did make it worthwhile.
Day five:-
Lunch at our favourite restaurant. Hotel Villa Italia, perched on the side of the hill overlooking Port d'Andratx and the Sierra de Tramontana. Three course set menu at lunchtime 29 Euros includes a glass of wine, bread, olives, vat and a generous three course meal. Perfect location, excellent food and wonderful service. Sublime.
Day six:-
The sun is out so it's a day by the pool with a good book.
