Sunday, 19 November 2023

La Gomera - our November holiday hotspot

Yes we have swapped the dark nights for pink pastel sunsets at happy hour to stave off the last of the day's heat.  It has been so hot in La Gomera this November - at times 30 degrees plus.  Just what we needed to recharge our batteries with a "fly and flop" break, as they somewhat unattractively say in the trade.




Long journey to get here but well worth it.   Amazing location on an amazing island.  Loved that we could check in with the HPB rep on our arrival at Tenerife airport and our bags were delivered to our apartment after the ferry ride to the island.   The resort is on the cliff above the sea and our apartment has a sea view. An  AMAZING view - first row to the sea, with beautiful palm trees. And that's just the start.  We woke up to stunning sun rises from our room and enjoyed our breakfast croissants from the shop on our large terrace.  We really enjoyed the evenings too, under starry nights, and the gardens are beautifully maintained.


To truly experience La Gomera one should travel around the island, experiencing the different landscapes.  This visit we decided to catch the "Baby Fred" ferry from down at the port in Playa de Santiago to Valle Gran Rey known for its black-sand beaches like La Puntilla and La Clera.  There are a number of nice bars and restaurants where you can enjoy a drink or lunch and just sit and watch the preponderance  of old hippies!  Nice walk along the prom too.



This mighty bronze statue is situated on the seafront in La Puntilla.  It honours Hautacuperche who is deemed to be a hero because in 1488 he led the rebellion of the Cameros.  He has a knife in one hand and perhaps an opened shellfish in the other, unsure.



We didn't hire a car for our stay but you can travel without a car, the regular buses are your best friend. 

We walked up the steep hill and caught the bus to San Sebastian.  You can easily cover everything there is to see in San Sebastian on foot.  San Sebastian is not exactly alive with tourist attractions, but the sleepy vibe and sprinkling of sights have enough to easily detain you for a half day.  We decided to start our exploration at the historic Torre Del Conde.  This is a legacy of the days when La Gomera was the last port of call for Christopher Columbus as he sailed off the known map heading west in 1492.  It's thought to be one of the oldest surviving fortresses anywhere in Macaronesia.  A leafy park surrounds the tower, which would have been an ideal place to take it easy on a bench but unfortunately it was closed the day we visited.

The other main sight is the  Casa de Colon, where Columbus is said to have stayed before sailing off in search of the New World.  Again, unfortunately, it was closed.  We did, however, stroll along Calle Real, a palm-fringed street, whose whitewashed houses sport hanging balconies.

Ok, so while being in San Sebastian, be on the lookout for a statue of Columbus.  It took us a while because it's not a big statue, but the people here are very proud of it.  The story is that Columbus came to La Gomera three times.  At first, it was because he needed water and it was the "last port of call".  But there are also other stories that say that the reason he stayed for three weeks the first time he came was due to love!  If the rumours are true, I don't know.  If you don't believe the story - see the statue as a reminder of how important water is.

The beautiful Church of the Assumption is painted white with a brownish hue and wooden details.    No, this is not a huge and impressive church but it's still worth sticking your head in to see an old painting in memory of historic sea battles transforming the interior into a piece of art.


On the cliffs overlooking the port is the Parador de la Gomera, which has been declared the best Parador in the Canary Islands.  Beautiful views of the colourful houses clinging precariously to the hillsides.




Really enjoyed the Saturday night BBQ, music and dancing and Sunday's paella down at the Shearwater bar.

We also ventured downhill into Playa de Santiago to visit the restaurants there.  Our favourite restaurant is La Marea.  The best seafood in town!  Tucked away off the main village square this lovely little restaurant is only open for dinner.  Excellent service and value for money.  Recommend the John Dory.

We also love La Chalana.  Don't be fooled by it's shabby appearance.  This is a great place for an informal lunch on the beach.  Lunch  starts at 12 and it's worth going early as it fills up fast.  Food is simple, but freshly prepared, tasty and certainly generous helpings.

Tasca Enyesque is a little gem of a restaurant in the heart of Playa de Santiago.  It is extremely popular so it is essential to book.  Menu is varied, traditional with a tapas twist.


A family run restaurant in a good location on the seafront is Bar Playa.  Need to book in advance for outside tables.  Very good value and friendly service.

Dined at Kuss on our wedding anniversary.  It is located at the western end of Playa de Santiago promenade, with views over the beach and harbour.  We were lucky to have a table on the elevated terrace.  The food offers something a little different from the other local restaurants, a little more upmarket in the presentation.  Linen table cloths etc.  Staff were pleasant and helpful. 

A fabulous holiday.  

Its beginning to look at lot like Christmas at Gatwick.


  





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