We arrive after a four-hour flight followed by a 45-minute ferry ride from Los Cristianos port in Tenerife. On approach, the island rises from the ocean, its top mysteriously covered with cloud. Far away from the boardwalks and burger bars of the cliched Canary Islands, this is a well-kept secret.
Welcome to the home of 'turismo slow', as they call it, where getting away from it all takes on a whole new meaning. It was a very early start, but by the time we get to our HPB home - El Balcon de Santa Ana in Playa de Santiago - the sun is beginning to set and the friendly staff welcome us with a glass of Cava.
In the morning, we awake to the sound of birdsong from the gorgeous gardens - hibiscus, red hot pokers, bay trees, yuccas, and cacti. At 10 am we join Jurgen for a guided walk around the site "Understanding Nature in South Gomera". It was so interesting, Jurgen is very knowledgeable and entertaining.
Next up is a swim in the pool - it's not heated, but we are hardy Brits and jump in anyway. After a shower my hair feels amazing - it turns out that the whole island is fuelled by water from its very own rainforest.
A day trip out on Wednesday "Highlights of La Gomera". On this side of the island, the view of Mount Teide - Tenerife's 3,000ft volcano - is omnipresent. Once on the road, you are also immediately stunned by the dramatic landscape of La Gomera itself. As with all the Canaries, it's volcanic, having been created from the lava spewed into the sea by volcanoes over millions of years. It's shaped like a giant lemon squeezer, with ravines radiating out from the central peak, dotted with (mostly abandoned) terraces covered in aloes, palms and prickly pears, when it comes to directions there's no left or right, only up or down.
We drive first to see Los Roques, the fascinating two-million-year-old volcanic remains, showing where the crater existed. The landscape is almost always covered with low clouds and mist, which gives the place a mysterious vibe.
The Mirador de Roque de Ojila is well loved by photographers, and you can easily tell why, just by looking at the photos. It is not surprising that the mountain peaks and slopes facing the lookout offer the spectacle of splendid cascades of mists. This is one of the weather frontiers of La Gomera. It acts as a transit area between the north facing slopes of the high mountain peaks of the island, which are frequently covered in mists, hence propagating the growth of splendid forests, and the southern facing slopes where the mists quickly dissipate, giving way to a dryer landscape, with scrub and bush replacing the forest.
We head next for Hermigua, a fertile valley planted with banana and avocados, and look at the remaining pillars of El Pescante, where bananas used to be hoisted on to ships headed for ports such as London's Canary wharf (named after the Canary Islands - who knew?). From here the Telemacha would set sail - boats taking refugees from Franco's fascist regime to Venezuela. During the Franco era, workers were treated as peasants, paid in bonds not cash, and forbidden from learning to read or write. There was a desperation to escape that sounds familiar in this day and age. Also Silbo, the whistling language that is an integral part of the Gomeran heritage, centuries old and used for communicating across the deep valleys, was outlawed by Franco and nearly died out before being made compulsory in schools, now it's classified as a Unesco Cultural Intangible Heritage.
From here the road twists around to Agulo, where we stop for a stroll - all cobbled streets and typical Canarian architecture with courtyards painted in white, yellow and blue and a classic church.
Next stop is Mirador de Abrante - a glass box cantilevered out over the clifftop offers the best (if scariest) view imaginable.
It was then on to the Visitor Centre of the National Park of Garajonay, Juego de Bolas. There are displays and audio visual recordings so that you can learn more about the whistling language of La Gomera and the history of the island. Also a garden where you can see some of the plants that grow here. And, it was also a comfort stop! A great place to stop for information on the huge network of walks. La Gomera is big with ramblers, we spot walking sticks a go-go.
And so on to the rainforest. This is the very heart of the island, the provider of all its water, which has remained unchanged for millions of years. The trees of laurel, juniper, myrtle and "tree heath" (heather in tree form) hang with old man's beard, which only grows in the cleanest of places, and are coated with moss and fungi; ferns and succulents grow everywhere and the whole place is cut through with streams and dripping with water. It's as far away from the dry landscape of nearby Lanzarote as you can imagine. It's also cold - so take a jumper - compared to the 28 degrees we left behind on the coast.
In the centre of the island is Chipude, a tiny town in the highlands, which comprises four bars and a church. Bar Sonia is where we stop for lunch. The restaurant is a little pearl - good hearty food and friendly smiling staff. Everything is cooked from scratch, and it is simple, tasty and just great. The interior is a delightfully charming mix of photographs of the owners, the people of Chipude, visiting celebrities and landscapes from La Gomera, there are old household appliances on display side by side with souvenirs of every kind.
Bellies full we return to El Balcon. An excellent day out with the friendly guide Mica. Phil was so glad he wasn't driving!!
Talking of food there are many bars and restaurants, though the only Michelin stars you'll find here will be on the bus tyres. Don't be afraid to go into the most uninviting-looking bar because you will be welcomed and well fed.
For lunch we like to hang out at La Chalana beach bar. It has a hippyish vibe where you can sit and stare out to sea all day. La Gomera has been on the hippy trail since the Sixties when Americans hid here to avoid conscription into the US army during the Vietnam war. The seafood is excellent and portions large.
A small road leads to Playa del Medio, one of three beaches mostly used by locals, where swimming costumes are optional. Needless to say we didn't join in. It is up and over:-
Don Tomate is in a great position overlooking the harbour. The food is delicious but service can be rather slow in the evening. Just chill. Perhaps a better choice for lunch.
One of our favourites is Tasca Enyesque. Takes tapas to a new level. Fabulous food and service. Waiters advise against more than one plate each. Exceptional value. Exelente. On a side street but you must book.
La Marea is great value local food with an excellent fish platter. Fish grilled to perfection with Canarian potatoes.
Papas arrugadas, wrinkled potatoes is a typical dish here on La Gomera where potatoes have been cultivated since the 1600s, when they were first brought back to Spain by the conquistadores. Traditionally, the potatoes were boiled in seawater but I suspect sea salt is now used. They are served with mojo sauce. Red mojo and green mojo. I dollop it on everything in sight. Some potatoes growing on terraces.
For lunch we stopped at an amazing, hidden gem, Prisma Restaurant at Playa de Alogera. A wonderful little fish restaurant in a very quiet place, far away from everything. At first sight it looks like a local bar but if you are in the area and can cope with the drive down the ridiculously twisting road you will be well rewarded. (Better still let Valentin drive). We ordered the fish and octopus and it was marvellous, well cooked, well presented, a real treat. We all thoroughly enjoyed the food. It is a place we will remember for a very long time and hopefully perhaps revisit. After lunch we took a quick walk down to the sea with the crashing waves and dramatic cliffs.
Back at El Balcon de Santa Ana the next day we walked along the coastal path to the cemetery and spot a falcon.
