It might have taken tests, some extra expense and a bit of planning to get here, but it was well worth the effort. And I honestly couldn't put a price tag on the feeling of jetting away to the Algarve, discovering new places within a firm old favourite and seeing sights I'll never take for granted again. Deserted beaches, hot sun and visitors few.
This is our fifth visit to Rocha Brava but we have been holidaying in the Algarve for almost 50 years. (one of my favourite things about blogging is looking back at past posts. You can read the other Rocha Brava posts on the following links - Sept. 2015, Oct., 2017, Oct, 2018, Sept. 2019). I still smile every time I step off a flight at Faro airport, with its dazzlingly bright and oh-so uplifting light. In many ways, a lot has changed since our first visit; more resorts, more tourists, fishing villages that have developed so much you wouldn't recognise them in an old postcard. On the other hand, it's still just the same. Small cobbled back-street restaurants serving up traditional chicken Piri-Piri. You don't have to stray far to discover quaint beaches, lakes with dancing flamingos or mountainous towns.
On Day 1 we hit the closest beach within walking distance. Vale de Centeanes Beach. It's great to watch the rollers coming in but watch out as they can take you by surprise and you could end up getting wet towels when they crash up onto the beach as the high tide comes in. Take a sun shade as you'll need it - no shady areas in the day. Lovely views of the cliffs and would definitely recommend the beach bar at the entrance O Stop. We enjoyed a lovely Sunday lunchtime meal. We had booked, which was good as it was busy, and were seated at a nice table with shade overlooking the beach. Friendly, helpful staff and great food at reasonable prices.
People-watching, snoozing, meandering - the most relaxing holidays are all about simple pleasures.
Because the weather was so beautiful we decided to hit the beach again the next day (we needn't have worried the weather was fantastic for the whole of our two week holiday). This time we drove to Ferragudo and Praia Grande beach. It's such a lovely sheltered beach with safe bathing and soft sand. Just the place to take children with their buckets and spades. It's a vast beach great for a long walk or just to soak up the sun whilst watching the comings and goings of the many boats and yachts from the marina at Praia da Rocha. Set at the River Arade estuary, to the west of Praia Grande you'll see the imposing Fort of Sao Joao de Arade, an awesome structure which dates back to the 15th century, when it was built as a lookout tower. It was extended a couple of centuries later to act as a defence, protecting the mouth of the river. At low tide you can walk around the fort to what is locally know as the 'fishermans' beach' - Praia da Angrinha.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Praia Grande Panoramic Restaurant. Great sea views, great food and wine (just had to try the Mateus - the original Rose) and friendly excellent service. A traditional Portuguese restaurant. There is parking near the beach and access on to the sand is by steps. What a wonderful spot.
And in the late afternoon we wandered back to the square in Ferragudo for a drink.
The next day we decided a little bit of exercise was needed so headed to Quinta do Lago and the Sao Lourenco Trail. When driving on the N125, exit towards Almancil and follow the signs towards Quinta do Lago. When you are in Quinta do Lago, follow the signs towards the beach. There is plenty of parking by the wooden bridge. Turn left before the bridge by the golf course. This is the start of an amazing nature trail, the Ludo walking trail leads all the way towards Praia de Faro. The trail offers one of the best ways to enjoy the serene lagoons and salt marshes of Ria Formosa. Protected from the open sea waters by a wide stretch of sandy islands, the lagoons provide shelter for a variety of waders and long-legged birds. If you have a daytime flight keep an eye out as it looks incredible when viewed from above with hundreds of flamingoes.
From the wooden bridge you can also turn right on to a new coastal boardwalk from Quinto do Lago to Vale do Lobo. The 4.8 km boardwalk is part of a 3.7 million euros project. Eventually, the plan is to extend the boardwalk to Quarteira and make it possible to walk or cycle from the Vilamoura Marina all the way to the external perimeter of Faro Airport. The boardwalk is erected over the dunes, invasive plants were removed, pine trees planted and sand fences to protect the dunes. After all this walking we really enjoyed our lunch at Izzy's at the end of the boardwalk. A great beachside restaurant in a beautiful setting. Prices are par for the location. And bubbles to help wash down our leisurely lunch, well we are in Vale do Lobo!!!Another day we did the boardwalk at Salgados Lagoon but the bird watching was a little disappointing here. Also Salgados is heavily developed but we enjoyed the walk.
Today it's time to explore the wild western coast of the Algarve, with its impressive beaches and pounding waves. This is a surfer's paradise. We drove to Odeceixe beach which is breathtaking: A broad expanse of sand with a shallow river running through it. Worlds apart from the tourist-magnets that dot the southern coastline. We stopped for coffee and a delicious fresh pastel de nata at Ponta Branca, sitting on the terrace with a fabulous view, watching the surfers. I love the Portuguese tarts. Nuns are credited with the creation of most of Portugal's sweet treats. Needing to use egg white to starch their habits, they were left with a glut of egg yolks leftover, so fortunately for us, they decided to mix them with sugar and create some of the world's finest pastries. The obvious one is the Pasteis de Nata, the flaky custard tarts that have come to represent Portuguese cruisine. Bom apetite!
We then drove to Aljezur and on to Praia da Arrifana. The sea is usually very rough here - a great place for surfing. We stopped for lunch at O Sargo. Incredible location, Excellent service. Delicious inventive food. Reasonably priced. What else could you want in a restaurant?
Another day trip out was to the village of Alte. We drove towards Silves with a fabulous view of the magnificent sandstone Moorish castle then on the N124 passing vibrant orange groves stretching as far as the eye can see. As you arrive in the village you will find free car parking at the back of the beautiful cemetery. You can't see this from the road but it is close to the impressive statue of Jose Cavaco Vieira, who was born in Alte and founded the Alte Amateur Music Academy. Suggest you don't drive into Alte as it is full of little cobbled streets, a delight to explore on foot but a nightmare in a car. One of the delights of Alte is just to be able to wander the streets catching sights and moments of a traditional way of life that does not seem to have changed much over the years. Follow the signs past the church to the Fonte Pequena and Fonte Grande. The springs also has a surprisingly modern sculpture in white and grey marble by the sculptor Victor Shrike. The sculpture symbolizes the muse 'Naia' of the Alte river, inspired by the work of the poet Emiliano da Costa. It is seen as a tribute to the washerwomen that used the fontes area to wash their clothes. The Portuguese poet Francisco Xavier Candido Guerreiro was born in Alte in 1871, and his work is also celebrated all around the fontes.
And an impressive flag of Portugal is painted into the hillside - try as we might we cannot find out why it is there!
Very close to the village is the Alte waterfall. Entrance behind cemetery. Its a bit of a walk down and when we did it the waterfall didn't have any water but in the wet season it would be a very pleasant spot. Shame about the boarded up cafe block which is covered in graffiti and makes what could be a delight into something slightly menacing. After all that walking it's always good to have lunch lined up - we can recommend the lovely restaurant 'O Folclore'. We sat on the terrace overlooking the valley. The waiter only gave us the choice of three specials of the day, but as they suited us, that wasn't a problem. Good service, nice food and exceptionally good value! Really enjoyed our visit.
Back at Rocha Brava the sunsets from our balcony were beautiful so one evening we set off for the Carvoeiro Board Walk. We drove to Algar Seco and parked the car. The boardwalk links the Algar Seco grotto to the church of Carvoeiro. A great easy 600 m walk along the cliffs and above the coves of Carvoeiro. Ideal for children and ok for pushchairs as well. Breathtaking views of the sea and along the coast. Ideal to watch the sun go down. We carried on into Carvoeiro and had dinner at Oasis. The chicken satay and rack of ribs were tasty with generous portions and reasonably priced.
The next day we met up with some friends who were also holidaying in the Algarve. We enjoyed a fabulous lunch at BJs Oceanside Restaurant in Quarteria. A magical setting where we enjoyed BJs special starters (pittas, hummus, tuna and carrots) followed by clams, squid and sea bream. All delicious. It is situated down a long winding dirt track - don't worry you are not lost, if following a sat nav, and there are no signs to help you. Make sure you book well in advance.
Our last day and we decided to find the "heart of Portugal". So close to where we are staying The Seven Hanging Valleys Trail - is not to be missed. Stunning views. Stunning coves. Stunning geology. Stunning sunsets. Yes, it is indeed very easy to get excited about this winding, fragrant trail that takes us through some of the Algarve's most beautiful natural gems. Here, the turquoise ocean has conspired with the warm-coloured cliffs to create the quintessential Algarvian seascape....and one of the most rewarding and memorable walks along the sun-kissed coastline. This scenic route runs from Praia de Vale Centeanes in the west to Praia da Marinha in the east. We have walked the whole of this route but on our last day decided to just do the section from Benagil, where there is a large car park, to Praia da Marinha. We were looking for the heart view. We found the rock formation with the two gates that form the upper part of the heart shape but we thought it depended on the sea and the tide was low. However, to find the perfect heart shape you need to find the cliffs that form a little tip. We will have to return.
Everything felt safe and easy about this holiday: free parking at the beaches, friendly people, beautiful landscapes. We leave having socialised, eaten fabulous food, enjoyed amazing weather. Thank you Portugal - we will return. And we tested negative on our return.
