Sailing Croatia....a Chronicle of Admiral Phil's Fleet, June 2014

When we arrived our Sunsail boat, Rosanna, was not available until about 5 p.m.
so we spent the day in Dubrovnik's old town.

Europe is full of Roman "old towns" but the one in Dubrovnik is exceptional ( which is probably why Games of Thrones chose it for all the outdoor Kings Landing Scenes).  It's large and well preserved,
with it's original fountain still working, walls and ramparts still walkable, streets    still paved with polished marble.

As you pass through Pile Gate you are walking back in time 2,000 years.  We paid the admission and
walked the entire 2 1/2 mile perimeter of the wall, probably climbing 500 feet above sea level in the process, affording great views in all directions.

Unfortunately, these days it is subject to horrendous cruise boat invasions!!  It was pouring with rain so perhaps some of the 10,000 cruise passengers stayed in their cabins.

There were nine sailing boats in our Mljet Flotilla plus the lead boat "Mljet One" with the skipper Kreso and his crew Petra and Bruno, who looked after us so well during our week's sailing.

On Monday we set sail for Magical Mljet.

The weather looked ominous and by lunchtime Phil had decided that to avoid the thunderstorms we should anchor at Lopud Island for lunch.
                                      

It was very pretty despite the thunder and lighting with the walls of Fort Spanjol on the hillside above the village. After lunch we motored to Mljet through quite rough seas but all boats arrived safely.

We moored overnight at Okukije, a pleasant well sheltered cove

and after a welcome punch party we all had a lovely meal at Maestral.

Very loud thunderstorms overnight but awoke to beautiful sunshine and Clive and Rosie walked up to the pretty church on the hillside above the village for this stunning photograph.

On Tuesday we left at 10.30a.m.  Time magazine once placed Mljet among the ten most beautiful island of the world.  It is 36km in length and consists of a chain of hills. We sailed to Luka Polace

with lunch en route.

On entering the very pretty inlet we stopped for a swim and a glass of champagne.

  Arrived at 5 p.m. and berthed stern to quay.  The whole group met for dinner at Stella Maris restaurant  where we enjoyed "lamb under a bell" and the Germans entertaining us with their guitars after dinner.  Very loud thunderstorms again overnight but sunshine on emerging from cabin.

Wednesday morning Phil strolled down to a lovely bakery for our breakfast.  After breakfast Rosie and I caught the 8.50 a.m. bus to the National Park's large lake, on which is an island with a 12th century Benedictine monastery.

The monastery is reached by a boat, and so our trip to Polace consisted visiting an island on an island.  Rosie and I were the only visitors so early in the morning, it was so peaceful.

 

The boys, after the briefing, hired bikes and cycled over the hill to the large lake, which is circled by paths.

When they returned we sailed back up the inlet, anchored and lunched then left at 2 pm and sailed most of the way to Korcula arriving at 5 p.m. for our glass of champagne and more bubbles - SHOWERS!!!  Stayed overnight at Marina Lumbarda, situated in the cove Tatinja in the southern part of the east coast of Korcula island.  A group meal again in the local winery with potent liquers too.

On Thursday after breakfast

we caught the local bus and visited the historical walled town.  Korcula Old City really is a stunningly beautiful location, the views of the Old City and from the Old City are breathtaking and I am glad I have visited this location.

It is steeped in history and the views from the top of the Cathedral bell tower are a must.

  The steps are very narrow and windey but it is worth the effort.  Beautiful city with an interesting layout of streets.  The walled city is positioned on an oval-shaped swelling of land pointing deep into Pelijesac Channel.  The city itself is grooved with a succession of narrow marble streets that branch off the spine of the main street like a fish bone.  This design is to reduce effects  wind and sun.  The streets to east have been curved around the town and for a good reason too.  During the winter months they protect the town from constant torture of the Bura wind and the rainy Jugo.  On the other side, the streets to the   west are straight and freely allow the refreshing western breeze Maestral to flow through them, which cools the town during the hot summer months.  The architecture is mainly influenced by Venetian Renaissance.

The greatest world traveller, Marco Polo, also began his life journey in this town.

We  returned to the Marina and left at 2.10 p.m. motoring to the old town nucleus on the peninsula.

We then backtracked and sailed on to Pomena on our "free day sail" arriving at 6 p.m.

The local waiters from the Barba Ive helped us to moor then very kindly came with a tray of Walnut Brandys for  us.  Delicious.  We had a wonderful meal, with a perfect view, Rosanna, fresh sea food, snapper, very good service and affordable prices.  Highly recommended.

Friday.  We departed Pomena at 9 a.m. and sailed and motored to Prozura

and anchored at 1 p.m. for lunch and a swim.

 

We left at 2 p.m.

and sailed all the way to Sudurad harbour on Sipan Island, with 22 knots of wind.
Sailing is one of the most sensory endeavours one can pursue.  I enjoy it when the engine is turned off, leaving us to the sounds of the wind and water caressing the boat and our spirits.  Add to that, the smell of the fresh air and open sea, and the feel of the wind in your face.  You can let sailing be as low  tech or gear-headed as you want it to be.  You can get into the physics of setting the sails, navigating to our next destination, keeping up with the on board electronics and plumbing.....or not, and just enjoy the experience.

Upon arrival a cocktail party was organised on the quay with each boat entering the competition.

We had bought a watermelon, which Clive sculptured into a Shark, whilst Rosie and I removed the melon inside,  strained it to get rid of the pips and then mixed it with lemonade, vodka and lime wedges.  We called it Juicy Jaws Rosanna.

Saturday.  Our last day and we woke to beautiful sunshine so we all had a refreshing swim at  8.30 a.m., and left at 10.15 a.m.  No wind, so motored to Celo on Kolocep Island.

Anchoring at 11.30 a.m. for a coffee.

We then motored on to Dubrovnik to look at the old city walls from the sea.

 

Continued on around Lokrum Island

which, to our surprise, was full of nude bathers!!!!  Did not stay, perhaps 40 years ago????
Anchored just outside the old walls for lunch and then back to the Marina.

 

arriving home at 4 p.m. after refuelling.

 

The last get together was a Gin and Tonic party (we took our own wine) and prizegiving.

Guess what  we won the golden chalice for our cocktail.

 

 

A wonderful holiday.

Thanks to the Sunsail crew for all their help.

 

 

It was lovely to spend a week with Clive and Rosie, our very good friends and excellent company.

Well done Phil - you are an excellent Skipper.

 

 

What else can I say except the Dalmatian coast of Croatia is some of the most beautiful sailing waters in the world.