That other world feeling starts with the seaplane transfer from Male airport to the resort, which takes about 25 minutes. I loved it - it made me feel like Indiana Jones. Let the adventure begin!
The Twin Otter of the Maldivian Air Taxi is an amazing way to start the holiday and see the beauty of the Maldives from above. Our photographs probably don't do it justice.
And barefoot pilots:-
However, in contrast to the string of enchanted atolls embraced by a turquoise ocean, Male, the capital, where our British Airways flight landed, with around 150,000 people on 2 square kilometres is one of the most densest populated places on earth!
We stayed at the Centara Grand Island Resort
We met the General Manager on our air taxi and enjoyed chatting to him all about the challenges of running this wonderful resort. Lots of staff from all over the world with 25 religions on this small island. Trying to save the island from disappearing under the rising ocean. (Can be quite "industrial looking" at low tide with pipes and sand bags visible).
It was 40 years ago this year 2012 that the first resort was built, against all the odds. A United Nations body had written in a report that tourism wasn't worth pursuing in the Maldives because the obstacles were too big. There was no bank in the country, so no access to finance, there was no airport to speak of, there wasn't even a telephone. Yet Kurumba manged to open in 1972 and Bandos a few months later. The rooms were built of the best local materials available, there were coral walls, coconut wood beams and palm-thatched roofs. There was a bed, a wardrobe, a luggage rack and a dressing table. That's all. Drinking water was from collected rainwater or a well. The meals were a repetition of tuna curry, rice, local fruit and vegetables and not very much else.
Just 40 years ago the only way to get around was by sail dhoni.
Think how long that would take to get to our destination. In 1972 the first engine was put into a dhoni, much to the distrust of the fishermen. It wasn't until 1989 that helicopters came along and in late 1993 that seaplanes made their appearance. By the way, the telephone system was finally established in 1980. Before that all communication was by ham radio or Morse code!
But we were now in the Lap of Luxury. Our beach suite no. 41 complete with hammock, spectacular sunsets; and the perfect white sand beach and the crystal clear water of the Indian Ocean right in front of us.
Wash your feet before you come in
From first thing in the morning to last thing at night, you are surrounded by breathtaking beauty.
Hot water was probably the first major innovation. And for many years afterwards, resorts would advertise "Hot and Cold Water". When ceiling fans moved to air conditioners this was something to shout about. We needed air conditioning, the temp was 32 in the shade and no breeze most of the time.
The inside/outside style of resort bathrooms derives from the first resort rooms that in turn copy the design of Maldivian island houses. The bathroom of those houses, called a gifili, is a fenced enclosure extending from the back of the house, with a well in the middle from which water is drawn using a large tin tied onto a long stick.
Phil loved it and wants one in Milford. Probably a little too cold I feel.
Once a saltwater shower was not uncommon but now desalination is a major boon for the industry and its guests. However, one day the water stopped flowing around the whole island and we realised how much we just expected to turn on a tap and get clean water. But the "plumbers" as reception said, soon fixed it.
Phil chose the Centara Grand because it used to be the diver's island of Machchafushi (still is Machchafushi to the locals) and is situated on and near some of the best diving sites in the Maldives. There is a prime diving site on it's doorstep with an excellent house reef complete with a sunken ship wreck. Many of the touring diving boats visited and anchored overnight.
List of Phil's dives
9th November - House Reef
10th November - Vakarufalhi H.R.
12th November - Angaga thila
12th November - Reethi Giri
14th November - Angaga thila
14th November - Raalhu thila
16th November - Kahambu thila
16th November - Maafushivaru H.R.
The house reef
The glitterati:- A shoal of jewel-like tropical fish feeding on the reef - the variety of marine life here is in abundance.
Some of the exciting dive photographs and it is just some!!!!
What angels.
Turtle
Eel
Spot the Stonefish
Coral
I didn't need to stray far though because you can just step into the sea and swim surrounded by "lovely creatures". I kept telling myself that but a stingray swimming underneath me in hip high water and two sharks following me, ok a baby black tipped reef shark and a baby nursing shark, did rather spook me! I kept thinking of Finding Nemo. Like the film you can see tiny parrotfish swimming very near you around the orange coral - it's amazing.
A rather large shark spotted whilst snorkelling:-
Back on dry land. Blue sky, green palms, white sand, turquoise lagoon and deep blue sea. All bathed in equatorial sunshine.
Touchdown. The Maldivian air taxi delivers guests.
I just loved watching the seaplanes.
Phil did manage to do a little sailing on the couple of days when there was a breeze.
and I enjoyed sitting on my sunbed admiring the Chinese couples in their matching outfits.
Shame I didn't have the camera for the lime green and pink outfits.
The Japanese on the other hand are totally covered up from the sun's rays.
Apparently many are not good swimmers but it was sweet to see them snorkelling hand in hand with life jackets on.
We were on an all inclusive basis and the food was excellent.
The main restaurant is the Reef which serves a melting pot of Asian and Western cuisines. The floor is covered in sand, very casual everyone wears flip flops and the men wear shorts to dinner. On the evenings we dined here we were lucky enough to be given a table on the deck by the water and we could watch the baby sharks waiting to be fed at 8 p.m. (Sometimes mummy came too, all 5 ft of her).
Service both for us and the sharks was wonderful and Ahmed ensured Phil always had a full glass!
Sunday lunch was also excellent. When we checked in for our flight at Gatwick we were told - please no alchol or pork scratchings to be taken into the Maldives.
Here is Phil eating roast pork and drinking red wine.
Breakfast is also served here. A great start to the day.
The Azzuri Mare is an Italian seafood restaurant and this is where we celebrated our 36th wedding anniversary.
They also decorated our room:-
There is also Lotus a very good Thai restaurant for lunch and dinner.
There are two bars. The Aqua Bar for tranquillity with "spa music". Wonderful for a pre-dinner cocktail as you look out over the ocean to the amazing sunsets at about 5.45 p.m.
Then a quick dash to the Coral Bar for another cocktail with entertainment this time.
Feeding the stingrays at 6 p.m. I loved this spectacle. The rays are about 100 cms.
The Coral Bar is by the side of the pool which was a decent size to swim in and never busy.
Perhaps in the distance you can see two very attractive islands. The one on the left is the main resort but the one on the right is a honeymoon island where a couple can stay totally on their own with food being delivered by boat from the main resort. Think we would probably get divorced after a week!
Evening entertainment is almost non existent here. However, twice a week they do have crab racing.
Phil thinks his crab was dead!
If your perfect holiday is to do nothing then you will love the Maldives.
Mind you, if you have breakfast, lunch and dinner and then sit on your bum all day you pile on the pounds!!!!
