Ivy House en route to The Coo Palace

PHOTOS TO FOLLOW

 On our way to the Coo Palace we stopped overnight at Ivy House in Braithwaite.  Dating back to the 18th century, this  lovely dark green building spent its previous life as both a school building and a vicarage.

We stayed in 6 - Dock.  A small double room, with a view towards fells, but perfectly adequate for our one night stay.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner and breakfast in the dining room which is lovely and the staff were friendly and helpful.

A beautiful sunny day so after breakfast we decided to go for a walk.   We needed to look no further than Barrow Fell starting in Braithwaite.

Directions:-  With the bridge behind you take the lane down the side of the village shop signposted Newlands, Buttermere.  Very soon turn right up a bridleway over a cattle grid.  Follow the path to the right of Braithwaite Lodge.  Go ahead through a gate signposted Newlands up to a bench with a fine view towards Skiddaw.  Go through a small gate, turn left and very shortly take a path on your right signposted Barrow to start the ascent proper.

The fell itself is quite steep in places but we kept stopping to turn round and admire the ever expanding views behind.  As you climb the views on your left open over Newlands Valley and to Catbells.  We carried on up a series of false summits!!!

As you reach the cairn marking the summit a magnificent 360 degree panorama comes into view over Bassenthwaite Lake, Whinlatter Forest, Grisedale Pike, Causey Pike, the Newlands Valley, the Helvellyn range, Derwentwater, Keswick and the Skiddaw range.  Similar to Catbells with a lot less people.  When Phil arrived at the summit he had it to himself.  Jaw dropping views.

And so weset off for The Coo Palace, a drive of approximately 100 miles, roughly two hours.

About Coo Palace.  Originally named Corseyard Farm and know now as the Coo Palace, this architecturally unusual building was built between 1911 and 1914. Erected for the Manchester businessman James Brown, it was designed in the Gothic Revival style to resemble a fortified caste.  Its purpose was a Cattle Shed and it housed a herd of 12 cows.  Rearing high above the whole steading is its grandest feature, the water tower with battlemented corner turrets and a smaller round tower on top.  However upon completion the tower was found to be useless as a means of supplying water.  It eventually fell into a state of disrepair and lay derelict until it was bought by HPB and converted into accommodation.  Work was carried out on the site between 2018 and 2020, and it opened to receive guests at the start of 2020.

We are so lucky to be staying in one of the fabulous front line properties, overlooking the Isle of Man,  E23,  Lady Teasdale, named after this coo.

Within five minutes of walking in we understood why it's expensive on points, it reflects the development cost and EVERYTHING is top quality.  Its just WOW, isn't it?

Dinner time!  It's Thursday and the Bondholder Dinner.  A "pop up" restaurant in the Club House with local hosts James and Marion Logan.

Marion is a wine expert, while James is a top chef.  The emphasis is on putting the fun in fine-dining, and fine wines - with plenty of jokes along the way.  Anyone heading to Coo Palace be sure to book for a convivial evening and  a dinner to savour.

The next day, we went for a swim before breakfast.  It's a small pool but we used it every day and mostly had it to ourselves.   There is a jet so you can get a good 'long' swim without moving.  It's lovely.

A trip up the tower was very interesting.  Paul, one of the site guys, gave us a guided tour.  Ask at reception for this.

After lunch we wandered down to the "secret beach", a comfortable walk from site and offering fabulous views out over the shore to Ardwall Island.  Here you'll also find the ruins of James Brown's impressive bathing hut.  

There are a wide variety of shells including the unusual "Pelican Foot" shells. 

By  an old slipway, which was for James Brown's personal fishing boat and hidden to the right is a small cave with a natural chimney reputed to have been used for smuggling contraband.

Apparently much of the contraband was stored on the Isle of Man - which was independent during the 18th century - and brought in fast moving smuggling fleets to the Scottish mainland.   Poet Robert Burns was amongst those trying to halt the free traders in the area after being appointed an excise man at Dumfries in 1791.  At one point, the cost of tea was made up of 70% fee for the Exchequer. 

Friday evening the Fish and Chip Van arrives. Fish and chips are scrummy anywhere but much better at the seaside.  The fish was so fresh.  We treated ourselves to fish, chips and mushy peas and sat eating them overlooking the sea.

If you fancy a lovely potter the walk from Kippford to Rockcliffe is one of the most scenic in the area with great views.  We parked at Kippford Village Hall.  There is a collection box for donations by the door of the hall.  After walking for a few minutes you'll come across a local artist's house and garden.  Strategically placed eyes make otherwise normal stones and bits of driftwood into magical beasts peeping out at you along the path.  

If yo do the walk as a circular route, it's a tad over three miles.  From Rockcliffe take the road up the hill and follow the Jubilee path back to Kippford.  At a path junction, take the left-hand path up a short but steep climb to reach the Mote of Mark, the site of an Iron Age hill fort.  The Mote of Mark was occupied around the 6th century but destroyed by fire in the 7th century.  It now provides a magnificent viewpoint to survey the scene across the estuary and over to the mountains of the Lake District.  Descend back to the Jubilee Path. 

We rounded off the walk with a lunch at The Ark, Kippford.  Lovely little gem of a place.  Staff super friendly and the views over the estuary perfect.

Another interesting walk is The Inbye Trail near the Big Water of Fleet Viaduct. It's a 3 km walk in the Cairnsmore of  Fleet National Nature Reserve.  It's an easy walk taking about an hour with fabulous  views of the Clints of Dromore and the Viaduct, which was featured in the film The 39 Steps.

Park at the visitor centre at Cairnsmore of Fleet National Nature Reserve.  The route has waymarkers.  If you want more of a challenge the path allows access to the Mountain End route offering more difficult and strenuous walking up the Clints themselves.

(About 500 million years ago, Scotland w.as part of a continent called Laurentia, and England was part of another called Avalonia.  Between them lay the 1000km wide Iapetus Ocean.  Over a period of 80million years the continents would drift towards each other; where they met the ocean floor was pushed down (subducted) below Laurentia's southern edge.  Sediments deposited on the down-going plate were progressively scraped off and plastered onto the upper plate in a pile of sandy and muddy sediment which overtime was compressed into greywacke (coarse, muddy sandstone) and shales to form the foundations of the Southern Uplands.  During this disturbance molten magma welled up and  intruded into the greywacke and shales, cooling as granite pools in the sedimentary rock.  At Cairnsmore of Fleet NNR you can see both the sedimentary rock and the now exposed granite in the Clints of Dromore and Cairnsmore.)

There are a series of five sculptures created by artist Matt Baker in collaboration with poet Mary Smith.  These sculptures are integrated into the landscape and aim to reflect the processes that shape the area, particularlu the granite formation.

Sculpture Ocean with poem.  Turned inside out, upside down, ocean's floor rose into light seabed became mountain peak, rocky crags where peregrines fly and ravens cry.

Gatehouse of Fleet is a pretty little mill town, well worth spending an afternoon in.  It's set on the banks of the River Fleet and surrounded by rolling hills.  It's instantly recognisable in photographs with its iconic clock tower that stands tall at the end of the main road.  The town used to be a hive of industry, with mills, a brewery and its own port.  These days, it's quiet and peaceful.  It's the kind of place you can stroll round at your own pace.

The Mill on the Fleet is the big deal in Gatehouse.  As its name suggests, it's a former working cotton mill, built in 1788.  It was restored by the local council in the 1980s and is no converted into a visitor centre, a great second-hand bookshop, a cafe and a pop up art shop.

You can find the original gatehouse of Gatehouse of Fleet (!) by the Murray Arms at the end of the main road.  There's a plaque on the wall so you can't miss it.

This marks the spot where, back in the 18th century, the local lairds decided to make some money out of passing travellers.  Rather than opening a gift shop like most people, they built a stone gait-house.  'Gait' was the old Norse word for 'road'.  They built it near the bridge, where they set up a toll booth for people to cough up money for crossing the river, and a coaching inn.  People travelling on the route from Dumfries to Stranraer, which is now the A75 road (no toll booths anymore!) used it as a good stopping point.  This was especially handy for staying overnight to avoid travelling in the dark, when all the local bandits and highwaymen came out.

Since those days, much has changed.  There are no bandits (as far as I know...) and the building is now expanded.  It's now the Murray Arms pub/hotel.  This is where that famous poet with good taste in pretty Scottish towns, Robert Burns, stayed when he called in at Gatehouse of Fleet in 1793.  He wrote the first draft of one of his well-known poems here (Scots Wha Hae).

We decided to have Sunday lunch at the Murray Arms restaurant.  The roasts we ordered, lamb and beef, were absolutely delicious.  Top notch!  It has been beautifully renovated and the staff were warm, friendly and efficient, inviting us to have a pre lunch drink in the wee Robert Burns lounge.

After lunch we discovered a secret garden tucked away off the High Street.  It's pleasingly symmetrical!  You'll find it tucked away off the main road through an archway in the old town hall.

Whilst out and about in the local area you absolutely have to spot some Belted Galloway cows.  Keep your eyes peeled and scan every field you pass for a glimpse of these bad boys.  It is mandatory to pull over for a photo when you see some.

The Belted Galloways, or 'Belties' as they're known are the local breed of cow.  I call them the "Oreo" cookie cows They're roughly ten times prettier than your Friesian cow and although they don't have the appealing hairdo of a Highland cow, I actually prefer them.  They look like they're wearing a chic white waist-belt with an otherwise all-black outfit.  And that's the kind of sleek monochrome outfit any trend-setting bovine should be in.

They're also much fluffier than most cows and because they are not really seen much around the rest of the UK, it's a real treat when you find a herd of them all munching away and looking cute.  You'll spot lots of Beltie memorabilia in gift shops.

 

 

  

Happy Birthday

 Happy Birthday Phil,

It doesn't take much to still enjoy a birthday in  your seventies.  Celebrating with family and friends.

Lunch in the sun in Bournemouth.

Watching the grandchildren at lifesaving club whilst eating fish and chips and cake.  Thank you Gemma.

Ice cream at Mottisfont.

And finally celebrating with the Swimmers.

Bonjour Brittany

En  route to Manoir du Hilguy in Brittany we "pushed the boat out" and decided to travel in a Commodore cabin on the new Brittany ferry - St.Malo - from Portsmouth on our outbound journey to Saint Malo.

The boarding procedure was extremely simple and straightforward - it was just a matter of handing over our passports to be given a cabin key card and hanging up a number to be displayed on the car's mirror.  We then drove through passport control - the only thing we had to do was wind down our windows and remove our sunglasses.  After being directed into the correct lane and parking bay it was simply a case of switching off the engine, grabbing the bags we wanted and heading inside to find our cabin.

What appealed to us about sailing on the St. Malo was that we would be starting our French adventure in the region of Brittany, it made sense to cross the channel overnight and wake up refreshed at our destination.  There was also the added excitement of sleeping on board a ship. Our cabin was very stylish with high quality bedding, a large porthole window and Phytomer toiletries and soft towels in the en-suite.  We enjoyed a very comfortable nights sleep and woke up to the dulcet tones of classical music. Breakfast was complimentary in the 8 Tresors lounge so we were ready to explore Saint-Malo early. 

 Saint-Malo was originally built as a walled citadel guarding the mouth  of the Rance river and was for centuries home to feared pirates.  They've all gone to Davy Jones' Locker though and now it's Brittany's most visited city.  One of the things you must do is to take a walk on the ramparts, the walls that surround the old town with magnificent sea views.  Arriving early we were able to park in front of the old town gate.

We then set off for our destination,  HPB's Manoir du Hilguy nestling in the crook of a small Breton valley, near the village of Plogastel St. Germain.  We found the roads in Brittany to be well-maintained and not overly busy.  Many of the highways are two-lanes, making our road trip relatively stress-free.  It was an easy drive on roads in excellent condition (no potholes and no litter!) and we enjoyed the scenic views especially with our GPS guiding us.  It took us four and a half hours but we stopped for a leisurely lunch (2 hours) at  L'Auberge de Guerledan in Caurel just off the N164 near Gouarec and enjoyed the Plat du Jour 17.50 euros with wine.  Best to book 02 96 26 35 16.

Le Manoir du Hilguy is a genuine, bona fide 18th century chateau, surrounded by glorious grounds, the rhododendrons, camellias  and magnolias were spectacular and Stephanie in reception was so welcoming.  Sabine, the manager, has a wonderful team and we were well taken care of from the moment we arrived.   Promises to be a good holiday.

We weren't staying in Le Manoir because it is closed until  mid May (too expensive to heat in the winter) but our Studio Apartment Lannion 41 was perfect with a lovely sunny terrace.

In the garden outside our Studio was lily of the valley known as muguet in French.  We were there on May Day and the French buy lily of the valley plants for their friends and family on May Day as a token of appreciation and to bring happiness and good luck.

Stephanie did allow us to visit Le Manoir though, especially to see the Mirror in one apartment with it's history, which we had read about in an article written by historian Huon Mallalieu in the Bond magazine.

"Violence returned to the area with the Second World War.  The Resistance developed early in Brittany.  The first Free French emissary landed in December 1940, and thereafter acts of sabotage, and executions, multiplied.  One agent with the British SAS, was Jacques Pinte, husband of the future owner of Hilguy.  He was eventually captured and spent the final months of the war in a concentration camp.  Madame Yannic, widow of M. le Coq's maitre d'hotel, remembered the Germans arriving at Hilguy by motor-cycle in 1940, and how for four years frequently changing detachments of about 10 officers were billeted there.  They were generally respectful to the local population, and bartered bread for the eggs produced by Mme Yannic's chickens.  Things became less amicable in August 1944 when the Germans were ordered to abandon the position.  The last of their baggage was put in a barn guarded by a single soldier, who not surprisingly disappeared.  Troops sent to investigate found a freshly dug patch of ground on the estate, but when the farmer was made to dig it up again, he exhumed only the corpse of a calf.    The Germans rampaged about the property, threatening to burn the Manoir if they found the body.  To emphasise the threat they fired into the empty building, where a mirror, in what is now the apartment Corneille, shows the bullet holes (pictured above).  Their fears for their man were well founded.  He had been shot by the Resistance, and the body buried nearby at Le Hinguer, where luckily it was not discovered."

Also photos of the downstairs in the Manoir:-

Le Manoir's Bisto is a lovely little area in the Clubhouse where you can relax and unwind, either inside or out.  Do not miss the Bondholder's Dinner, Eric, the chef, really wows with his sweet treats.  He's a very talented pastry chef and has worked all over the World.

We enjoyed Aperitifs with Sabine one evening followed by a game of Petanque in front of Le Manoir and Saturday night has happy hour where we met some lovely guests. Also do not miss the DZ Eire Concert - Celtic music.

I used the indoor swimming pool every day and even did Aqua gym in French with the local ladies from the village who were very friendly.  Also enjoyed Aqua aerobics with David.

 

And so to explore Brittany.  Less than half an hour to the north is the fishing port of Douarnenez, once the premier sardine port of France.  We arrived at 10 a.m., easy to park right in front of the Port-Musee.  The Museum is divided into two parts: one inside, the other outside on several boats.  Gave us an appreciation of what life was like on a working boat.

The Port-Rhu is a delightful area to wander. 

 We were lucky enough to be able to access Tristan Island on foot at low tide.  It is only accessible for a couple of hours a day when the tide is out and you can see the causeway.  interesting to watch how the tides work around Ile Tristan.

For lunch we stopped at L'Amuse-Louche on Quai du Port Rhu by the museum.  The service was very friendly and the food was excellent.

We were blessed with perfect weather, and the skies were a shade of blue that I now like to refer to as "Brittany blue".  While there are those who say the weather is horrible in Brittany, I beg to differ.  There is nothing quite like that bright blue Brittany sky. 

The following day we drove south on La Route du Vent Solaire. (map at reception).  Named after the work of Pierre Jakez Helias, a writer from the Pays Bigouden.  We drove past his house in Pouldreuzic on our way to Penhors.  The Vent Solaire  route is like the wind: it often changes direction.

Penhors is a lovely place to visit and take a stroll.  Easy parking and spectacular scenery.

Our next stop was in Plovan at the ruins of the Chapelle du Languidon.  It's out of the way but this old ruin retains a wonderful sense of peace and tranquility.  The rose window is still intact.

We continued to La Torche.  Don't miss the intricately carved calvary at Tronoen Chapel, the oldest of the seven great calvaries of Brittany.

La Pointe de la Torche is an immense stretch of sand, a true paradise for surfers.  It  was even a strong contender against Tahiti to host the surfing events for the Paris 2024 Olympics.

Lunch was at Le Rayon Vert Cafe.  I loved this restaurant.  Sitting outside in the sun eating golden sun mussels and drinking cider.

After lunch we drove to the lighthouse at Penmarch, Phare D'Eckmyhl.   Built in 1890 and still functioning, the lighthouse dwarfs its adjacent, inferior, predecessor. You can climb it if you like: 307 steps - we didn't!!!  We did however visit the lifeboat museum.

It was then on to Guilvinec where we visited Haliotika.  There  is a free outdoor terrace offering a breathtaking view of the arrival of boats and the unloading of the fish at 3.30 p.m.  I enjoyed watching this spectacle.  Wriggling prawns, monk fish, scarlet rock fish.....  An absolute must see!

Another day, another 'must see' Breton location is La Pointe du Raz.  However, we drove to Pointe du Van because it is free to park and you can walk to Raz.  The view of the sea is breathtaking, even on a calm day, with the dramatic cliffs and rocks out at sea, the island of Sein seems so fragile.  Between Van Point and Raz is the Saint They chapel, which has kept watch on the cliff edge since the 16th century.  A lovely beach with toilets midway too.

Audierne is a charming Breton harbour town just a few kilometres from Pointe du Van.  Boats from Audierne fish for the more profitable species including spiny lobster, sea perch, devilfish, turbot and skate.  The River Goyen opens out into the estuary.

We enjoyed crepes from Creperie Ty Clech Audierne, overlooking the marina.  Phil enjoyed  a crepe with scallops whilst I had smoked salmon.  We didn't know that French crepes originated in Brittany.  It seems the crusaders brought buckwheat to Brittany in the 13th century.  The local story goes that a local woman accidentally dropped some buckwheat dough on a hot pot and voila!.  Now, how many different crepes can there be?  As many as you can imagine!  Salty or sweet, for breakfast, lunch or dinner there is a crepe for everyone.

You'll find Breton cider or apple juice is the perfect accompaniment to a crepe, but don't be surprised if your cider comes in a traditional pottery bowl or bol.

Is Pont-l'Abbe worth a visit?  We wanted to visit the museum which showcases the traditional Bigouden costumes but unfortunately it was closed but the Les Halles market was interesting offering a wide variety of fresh produce, seafood, baked goods and Breton specialities.  The Notre-Dame des Carmes Church features stunning stained glass windows. 

A short drive away is the little port of Sainte Marine.  The view from this little port is absolutely magnificent.  You must go for lunch.  You'll see the constant movement of boats and you can also make out Benodet across the water.  After lunch we crossed over the iconic Cornouaille Bridge that spans the River Odet at 70 metres,  (there is also a water taxi known as Le P'tit Bac that will take you to Benodet for 2 euros each) to enjoy an ice cream on the wide esplanade framed by statuesque pine trees overlooking the beach.  Benodet has a chic, south-of-France feel about it.

The Closed City of  Concarneau  was our next port of call the following day.  Concarneau is a historic walled island town with ramparts dating back to the Middle Ages.  The town, fortified in the 14th century and later modified by architect Vauban, is situated on a small island connected by a stone footbridge.  We strolled along the ramparts, taking in the panoramic views of the bay, fishing and yachting ports.  The city's cobbled streets are lined with half-timbered houses and there are numerous shops to explore.

For lunch we drove via Neves to Port Manec'h and lunched at La Chataigneraie restaurant.  An idyllic setting, wonderful service and delicious cuisine.  The pretty cove with its bathing huts is like a picture postcard.

After lunch we drove to Pont-Aven, well known as a haven for artists.  We called in at the tourist office and we were given a map recommending a gentle stroll along the riverside.  It's not surprising that Pont-Aven was the inspiration for so many works of art; the town is a delightful collection of thatched cottages, watermills and has over 20 waterfalls roaring along the River Aven.

The next day we decided to return  to Dournenez on a high tide.  (We also enjoyed another meal at L'Amuse-Louche).  There are two harbours available in Dournenez, and they are called Treboul Harbour and the Port-Rhu basin.  Treboul Harbour is accessible at all tide levels.  The Port-Rhu basin is accessible two hours before and after high tide.  We were lucky enough to watch the pedestrian bridge being raised to allow a boat to pass through.  Amazing to watch the spectacle of tides here.

After lunch we drove the short distance to Locronan.  I had long wanted to visit Locronan, a town that dates back 2,000 years, and is rich in Celtic history and lore.  Whenever I saw photos of Locronan, I was drawn to its old, grey granite buildings.  I knew I would love it once I finally got there.  However, as we entered the town, we came upon a  Medieval Fayre.  It was so busy.  At first we were disappointed, but then realised it simply meant that we would have to come back and  visit another time and  in the meanwhile enjoy the festivities.

Seventeen kms to the east of Hilguy lies Quimper.  The 75m high twin towers of the Cathedral of St. Corentin  with their delicate stonework dominate the centre of town and are surrounded by beautiful medieval half-timbered houses so the whole is very harmonious.  Inside the Cathedral has a peculiarity: the nave is....crooked!  One account says that the bend to the left was so as to avoid disturbing the older chapel which contained the tomb of Alain Canhiart, another says that it was due to avoiding marshy land.  The most imaginative says that the bend is to emulate Christ lying on the crucifix with his head on one side.  Take your pick! 

This little patisserie seemed to have been taken out of a storybook...

We returned a couple of days later to the Renaissance Gem of Locronan.  Upon arrival we parked our car at the free lot that lies just on the outer edge of town.  It feels like stepping through a portal to another era.  The village's impeccably preserved granite buildings form what many consider France's most authentic medieval square.  Unlike many historic sites that have been heavily restored, Locronan's architecture remains genuinely intact - so authentic that filmakers flock here, with Roman Polanski's "Tess" among the most famous productions shot in it's time-frozen streets.  

The church stands as testament to the immense wealth this small community once possessed through its sailcloth industry, which supplied material for ships in the French Royal Navy.

It is perfection for those who love taking long strolls and dozens of photographs.

And a litttle chocolaterie:-

I'm very happy to have visited these delightful places in la Bretagne.  Whether you plan to visit Brittany in the future or prefer to be a mental traveller, I do hope that you enjoyed the above posts.

Beyond Brittany:  We decided to drive home via Mont Saint-Michel.  A three hour drive via the N176. It's also about one hour from St. Malo for our return ferry journey home.

When visiting Brittany, one simply must travel to nearby Normandy for a visit to Mont St. Michel.  Sitting just 1 km from the mainland, it is one of France's most beloved islands.  

Rising like a fairytale fortress from the sea, Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy is one  of France's most breathtaking sights.  Built over 1,000 years ago, this medieval abbey sits atop a rocky island, surrounded by dramatic tides.  Did you know the bay experiences some of the strongest tidal shifts in the world?

The approach in itself is truly unforgettable - the town can be seen from miles away, looming out of the  otherwise unbroken horizon.  Visitors can reach the site itself on foot or by shuttle bus. As to what time of day to book - we left Hilguy at 8.30 a.m. and we booked  the Abbey entrance for anytime between 1pm and 3pm.  A pedestrian bridge with a regular bus service connects the island to the rest of the world.  We walked to the island and every step offered a new perspective on the gorgeous abbey.

We stayed overnight at The Mecure Hotel, very close to the Fortress.  After booking they send a code for the car parking.  It all worked out really well and the room was very comfortable.  We left at 8.30 am for the 10.30 am ferry departing St. Malo. 

Once you get to the island, you are greeted by a tiny, winding street that leads up to the abbey.  It is a good idea to get a map from the Tourist Office.  Be prepared for a steep climb, by stairs or winding path.  Good walking shoes are a must for these beautiful but slightly challenging cobbled streets.  There are plenty of restaurants and shops to stop in for a rest along the way.  The island is simply a must-see for those who enjoy architecture, history and photography.  There is something breathtakingly beautiful around every corner.

For example, walking along the 15th century fortifications for incredible views of the Bay. 

You only pay to enter the Abbey - it costs 13 Euros.  And for 5 Euros you can do the tour with a tablet guide.  This guide is excellent.  It allowed us to step back in time and discover the abbey as it was in the Middle Ages.  The tablets are in English and are accompanied by headphones. (An identity card is required to collect the tablet and it is recommended you book a tablet in advance. )

After entering the Abbey, more stairs await you (you are climbing a small mountain, after all!).  Its grandeur is evident from the beginning, with a wide, white stone staircase leading up to the west terrace near the entrance to the Abbey.  To build a grand cathedral balanced on top of the rocks required the highest skills in architecture.

During our holiday we feasted on piles of mussels, delicious fish dishes, slathered slices of baguettes with the famous brilliant-yellow Breton butter salted by the sea.  Our cheeks got round!!!  Our last meal was Agneau de pre-sale (salt marsh lamb). It's made from lambs which graze in the salt water marshes in the shadow of Mont Saint-Michel, and has a unique taste due to the high salinity of the grasses they eat.  It's quite delicious.

The journey home from St. Malo to Portsmouth takes just over 8 hours.  We didn't book a cabin this time  as it  was a day time sailing.  We did, however, pay for access to the CClub Lounge on deck 8 which offers panoramic sea views in a stylish and comfortable space.  This included complimentary hot and cold drinks, a variety of snacks and different selections of hot and cold foods provided throughout the day.  It was excellent and very quiet and smooth for our crossing.

In my opinion April and May are the most perfect months to come to Brittany.  The flowers cascade from the windows, the tourist season has not yet kicked in and the weather was simply divine.