It was November. We were little more than a day's travel from wet-and-windy London and just 50 minutes by ferry from the egg-box apartment resorts of southern Tenerife.
The transfer is like a little round island trip. We go up and up the mountains. After 45 minutes, we reach the little fishing port of Playa de Santiago. HPBs El Balcon de Santa Ana is spectacularly located on a giant rock, just stunning, with mesmerising views across to Tenerife's Mount Teide. It's also La Gomera's sunniest spot. The resort is a haven of tranquillity.
It probably isn't for you if: you want a quick week in the sun, with easy transfers and you also wouldn't like it if you want big shops and amusement parks and other man-made attractions. Oh, and you wouldn't want to be scared of heights, have vertigo or be fearful on buses which whizz around narrow roads with sheer drops and dark tunnels.
We began this latest visit, lapping up the luxury of breakfasting on our gorgeous balcony with an awesome view of palm trees and the Atlantic. Take a deep breath. The sun is shining, it is still warm in November. ( In fact the temperatures were very high due to the Calima, a phenomenon characterised by dust from the Sahara Desert). Abundant gardens with wonderful palm trees, mixed with fantastic sea views. Nature can make you so happy! After breakfast we explored. There are staircases all over the place to keep you fit. What an excellent workout for legs and bottom!!!
Another favourite of ours is Tasca Enyesque. Amazing food. Don't be offput by the size nor that the outside seating is on the pavement - the food is well worth it - tuna was amazing.
Restaurante Kuss is located at the western end of Playa Santiago promenade, with views over the beach and harbour with some tables on the elevated terrace, particularly nice if you can book one. Food is an interesting mix of local cuisine and Asian influences, with an emphasis on seafood. Wines are good and sensibly priced.
Next door is Don Tomate. Great as long as you stick to what they are good at. Pizzas at lunchtime. The location is perfect for a sunny day overlooking the beach. Can get extremely busy at night.
The only Michelin stars you'll find here will be on the bus tyres. Don't be afraid to go into the most uninviting-looking bar because you will be welcomed and well fed.
On the little square, the locals sip coffee and have a chat, just next to a very small supermarket. And that's all there is of Playa Santiago. It's 6 euros for a taxi drive home.
Back at El Balcon the dinners in the restaurant were pretty good too. Make sure you reserve your table in advance by the website. Can recommend the Paella in the Shearwater by the pool.
I really enjoyed the stretching classes with Agneski in the garden overlooking the sea and also her aqua-aerobics.
And after all that exercise Elizabetta's one hour massage was excellent.
Time for the ferry to Valle Gran Rey. The Benchi Express is a very modern boat which also belongs to Fred Olsen. It departs at 11.20 a.m. from the harbour and leaves Valle Gran Rey for the return at 4 pm. (Don't be late). It's perfect for a day trip. We sat outside and observed bizarre rocks on the journey. If you visit the local tourist office at Valle Gran Rey they'll tell you it was named after the Big King who once lived in this valley - but we know better. We reckon it was named after the local Stingrays. We first heard about the rays from one of our friends who told us huge rays lived in the harbour. The rays seem to like to be near the beach in the port. As soon as we arrived in Valle Gran Rey (noon) we went looking for them and sure enough we could see the huge diamond shapes swimming under the dinghies alongside the wall. We looked again at 3.30 p.m. but they had gone.
Whilst in Valle Gran Rey we had a delightful fish meal at El Puerto. As the name implies it is right by the port and fish features strongly on the menu. Lots of outdoor seating which we availed ourselves of. Service was excellent as was the fish.
We asked Valentin, the DJ, for a bespoke tour, requesting a must-have stop for lunch which he incorporated. He then added some amazing visits en route to places you would never find yourself.
La Gomera is more or less circular, it is also extremely mountainous so expect vertiginous drops and fabulous views, with deserted valleys such as Erque and Erquito. Our first stop with Valentin. So glad he was driving. Erquito is a small abandoned settlement, accessible via a small paved road between Igualero and Chipude, along one of the island's deepest and most impressive gorges. This area, inhabited as early as the 18th century, was isolated from the rest of the island, and the population was forced to take care of themselves. Meanwhile, however, the valley is largely abandoned, individual houses are being renovated again and inhabited in the summer as a holiday home.
The very well-kept Ermita is located at the entrance.
The next stop was for coffee at Chipude. What a lovely spot, this charming old, family run cafe/restaurant sits in, looking across the valley in a world that time forgot. Good coffee too.
A handicraft museum was the next stop, Centro de Interpretacion - Las Loceras. Learning about the history behind the handmade pottery from La Gomera was absolutely fascinating - and the fact that they do it without the use of a spinning pottery wheel makes it that much more incredible. It is completely worth a trip here. You won't be disappointed.
On a previous tour with Valentin he had taken us to the Prisma Restaurant on the remote seafront at Playa Alojera. The outdoor seating is along the steps leading to and from the beach and seafront, really picturesque. It's an amazing, hidden gem. Fresh seafood, the Bocinegro fish was excellent. Really good, authentic food and laid back atmosphere at really affordable prices. Absolutely the hidden gem of La Gomera.
An amazing day out, Valentin is so knowledgeable and friendly. ( VSV Tours. Tel +34 616 768 322 vsvtours@gmail.com www.vsvtours.com).
The staff are wonderful at El Balcon, good humour is always prevalent with a genuine willingness to go the extra mile. Thank you for looking after us so well. See you next year.
It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas.......
