People watching, snoozing, meandering - the most relaxing holidays are all about simple pleasures. Perfecting the art of idling in a sleepy enclave of the Algarve.
Do you want to play golf?
Go go-karting?
Cycle through mountains?
Be dragged around important museums and art galleries?
No thank you, not on this holiday. We just want to kick back and do sweet nothing.
However, early one morning we set off for Praia de Benagil, an amazing beach with beautiful views and lots of seashells. The road descends into a ravine, hairpin's past Benagil beach (great spot to drop off/pick up) and up the other side to the large car park. The cave at Benagil beach is stunning, Phil reached it by swimming 200 m in just ten minutes. Not very demanding but try not to get too close to the cliff because of the waves. The water is quite cold too, about 19 degrees! Hint: If you want to do this it pays to get up early and swim from the beach before the tour boats arrive. If you are lucky you may be completely alone at this breathtaking spot but later it will be VERY crowded and touristy.
Also don't go if the water is too rough.
I'm intent on being inert, but rouse myself sufficiently to discover that the jewel in the Algarve's crown isn't in a town, but a lovely boat ride away and this is how I entered Benagil Cave. One of the top five caves in the world! It is a spectacular domed cave that has two arch openings and a vaulted holed roof. The cave walls are lined with beautiful sandstone strata, while at the base of the cave is a small beach; it is easy to see why this is the most photographed natural feature in the Algarve.
We walked the Seven Hanging Valleys trail, saw lots of boats and decided it would be a great way to see all the coast/caves not visible from the cliff paths. We discussed kayaking and paddle-boarding but I decided it was not for me (mainly because it is too busy) - I'm sure Phil would have loved it though.
We decided to take a boat tour, but on a small boat as these seemed to be able to get into more of the caves and coves. Centianes beach is the closest place to Rocha Brava and has the calmest seas. So we booked for the 10 a.m. ride when the sea is calmer and the tide was low. The trip was fantastic. So easy to climb aboard the boat without getting wet. No worries though because the boat is operated by extremely handsome men who leap hither and thither helping you on and off and offering twinkly chivalrous winks to the ladies aboard. Capt. Bruno was superb at navigating the 12 seater speedboat into the narrowest of caves and then turning it on a sixpence! He explained the notable features of each cave (the Face, the Crocodile, Two Eyes, the Echo, the Garage, the Cathedral and the Elephant) and gave us plenty of time to take photos. We saw many caves along the stunning coastline and he also knew how to open the throttle to give us all a bit of a thrill as well. The caves visited are spectacular and awe-inspiring; and on this small boat you can go right into all of them. You also get to see the most popular beach - Praia da Marinha and a few more beaches that are reachable only by boat.
Can you spot the crocodile?
The Elephant?
Nearby, Carvoeiro is a town of two tales and it really all depends on your approach. Arrive from the coastal boardwalk to be greeted with a picture perfect view and you would almost certainly be inspired to stick around and explore. Arrive from the road and, after passing many a tacky tourist store, neon lights and an Irish bar amongst other things, you might not be inspired to stick around at all. We walked from the fascinating Algar Seco rock formations along the Carvoeiro Boardwalk. It is a lovely wooden path along the coastline and it is worth it for the dramatic coastline. Hearty congratulations to whoever came up with this concept.
After wandering around Carvoeiro for a while we walked back and had a delicious meal at Vimar Portuguese Restaurant (opposite Algar Seco turning). A 3 course set menu for only 14 Euros per person. It consisted of cover (bread, olives, carrots), soup or salad. Followed by a main course of meat or fish (there is a good choice, my golden bream was excellent) then a generous portion of dessert. Coffee and chocolate plus wine, beer or soft drink. The staff are friendly and helpful, worth trying especially at the price. You have to ask for the set menu....although all the other dishes being served looked delicious too.
Another restaurant we frequent in Carvoeiro is the Oasis. It is about 150 m from the beach on the one way street leading out of Carvoeiro back to Lagoa. Be sure to try the home-made Sate (Chicken Kebab with Peanut Sauce) or the Pork Ribs.
After dinner it was back to our balcony to relax with a very pleasant bottle of red wine purchased in Aldi.
Vergado Reserva Douro 2015. Only 2.99 Euros a bottle!!!!
One evening we enjoyed a bar-be-que at HPB Rocha Brava. We won a bottle of wine in the quiz, with a lot of help from Ian and Beverley, and then Ian and Phil joined in with the Portuguese Traditional Dances. Well done. The traditional dance of the Algarve is the corridinho. It is danced in pairs, strongly clinging to each other, in a circle constituted by various couples. Corridinho was danced on special occasions in small villages in the Algarve and was part of the traditional culture of rural and fishing communities. Nowadays, there are still folk groups in many villages and corridinho belongs to the regular entertainment offered by hotels and festivals in the region. If you have the opportunity, try to dance and to twirl without falling!
What can I say about Do? The Sand City exhibition is fantastic. There were a lot more sand sculptures than I expected. The "Round the World" theme was interpreted widely with sculptures of famous people, places, gods, mythology, fairytales, works of art and animals and topical themes such as pollution of the oceans. The detail and the work that has gone into these figures is incredible. Every summer, 50 thousand tons of sand is spread out over 6 hectacres of outdoor exhibition space for sculptors to shape and carve into entertaining, whimsical and amazing celebrities, places and scenes. We spent just over an hour here. On the N125 between Lagoa and Porches roundabouts. Open until 8th November 10 a.m. to 8p.m.
Rocha Brava just makes you fall instantly in love and vow to return again and again......
