India was once the land of the Maharajas. Centuries on, its majesty remains undimmed. From the awe-inspiring Taj Mahal to the ancient Amber Fort, Golden Temple, and the tranquil shores of Lake Pichola, the richness of its culture is mesmerising.
Day 1 (Wednesday, 14th November, 2018) - Our Real Exotic Marigold Holiday Group depart from London Heathrow on the direct overnight Virgin Atlantic flight to Delhi. Thank you Clive and Rosie for getting the holiday off to a fabulous start by treating us to Lounge access where we shared our excitement - and, yes, trepidation - about the journey that lay ahead.
Day 2 - India! Wow! Old Delhi Wow! OMG the Noise, Traffic, How Many People, Cars, Trucks, Tuk Tuks, Bicycles, Mopeds, Motorcycles and Cows can you cram into one square foot? After the overnight flight I was so burned out I was ready to get out and fly somewhere with a quiet beach. OMG Wakeup! Don't give up on India. Delhi is an experience not to be missed, so after a quick wash and brush up and change of clothes we headed out with our wonderful Riviera Tour Manager Paul and Guide Aby to Qutab Minar.
History is seeped in the Qutab Minar. It is amazing to see the tower, in all its splendour, and another amazing piece is the rust-resistant Iron Pole. I am not sure if anyone is able to understand the metallurgical principles and able to replicate the rust-resistant technology. A symbol of the advanced technology India possessed since ages...….
The tower is the tallest stone tower in India and at a height of 238 ft. is only 5 ft. less than the Taj Mahal.
Day 3 - We woke refreshed and ready to start the new day the Delhi way. Actually there are at least three Delhis, not just one. There is Old Delhi with the Red Fort and the Jama Mashjid, Humayun's Tomb and the Qutub Minar. There is New Delhi, so much the creation of Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker. Then there is the Delhi of post-independence India - the teeming, bustling city that is literally bursting at the seams. With a population of 14 million, it is the third largest city in India. There are seven and a half million vehicles on Delhi's roads, with 900 new vehicles being registered every day!
Aby took us round the stupendously paradoxical city of Delhi: breathtaking squalor, overpowering smells - some good and some very bed - nestle alongside splendour and colour. For splendour, we started at the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India, built by Shah Jahan (who later went on to build the Taj Mahal) - a huge, beautiful building characterised by perfectly proportioned domes, arches and minarets. This intricate masterpiece in red standstone and marble was completed in 1656 by more than 6,000 workers who had toiled for six years. Its vast courtyard, which can hold 25,000 people, is thronging with tourists and locals, yet still manages to be resoundingly calm.
From there, a hair-raising rickshaw ride (an experience I thoroughly recommend for the thrill-seeker) took us through congested streets. We glided silently through bustling shady laneways, under tangled wires crudely suspended overhead which miraculously supply power to the pocket-sized shops, bulging with books, saris and tinsel offerings for the temples. Deep within Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk market of labyrinthine streets, life continues as it has for centuries.
We then stopped at the memorial to Gandhi.
Now it was time to follow in the footsteps of love. To Agra, its stupendous Mughal Fort and the Taj Mahal. We continued by road to Agra arriving in time to visit the vast red standstone 16th century Agra Fort, once the headquarters of the vast Moghul Empire.
You can see the Taj Mahal from the fort (and vice versa), which is reason enough to go! No-one can deny this was one hell of a tribute to a love. The fort however is spectacular in it's own right. Phenomenal architecturally with a lot to see, the place is imposing and massive. Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal, fell ill in September, 1657. Taking advantage of this opportunity, one of his sons, Aurangzeb, took over the throne and imprisoned him in Agra Fort. Today, when you visit the fort, you can stand by the window from which, for the last ten years of his life, Shah Jahan was able to gaze at the wonder he had created, not much more than a mile away, on the bank of the holy river. Wonderful. He was still a captive when he died, in 1666, to be entombed alongside Mumtaz.
Day 4 - The Taj Mahal. The sheer excitement of that first glimpse of the Taj. This was - and is - a monument which is stunning beyond words.
The Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore describled the Taj as a 'teardrop on the face of eternity'. Was this the greatest love story of all time, I asked myself. Mumtaz Mahal, Shah Jahan's second wife, died while delivering their 14th child. On her deathbed she asked two promises from her husband. The first was that he would never marry again. The second was that he should build a monument peerless in concept and beauty which would symbolise their eternal love for each other.
As far as the first wish was concerned, Shah Jahan - fifth of the Great Mughal Emperors, he ruled India from 1627 to 1658 - already had three other wives (including a Hindu and a Christian one) and a harem numbered in the thousands, so agreeing not to marry again was perhaps not such a great act of self-denial as it might at first appear. But it was Shah Jahan's determination to observe the second promise that enabled Agra to achieve in the 17th century the peak of its glory. Shah Jahan invited designs from the famous architects of the world. Ultimately, the Persian Ustad Ahmad Lahauri was nominated. For 22 years Shah Jahan closely supervised the construction of the magical building on the banks of the holy Yamuna river. He neglected the affairs of state; he virtually bankrupted the treasury. The construction of the Taj Mahal was finally completed in 1648 and the mortal remains of Empress Mumtaz Mahal interred beneath the dome.
We were so lucky that morning in Agra. Sometimes - let's be frank - air pollution in which is now a large industrial city can affect visibility. The clear lines of the Taj can be shrouded in mist. But for our visit the weather was absolutely stunning. We arrived well before the crowds began to gather and walked in the cool of the morning through the beautiful Moghul gardens.
For pure beauty and inspiration, no-one can argue those ancient Mughals didn't know a thing or two about love. I don't care how many neon versions of the tomb you've seen in your local Indian restaurant: nothing can prepare you for the breathtaking majesty of the building itself. It is a truly awe-inspiring feat of design and immaculately intricate execution.
We then drove for about 5 hours to Jaipur (about 235 km). We relaxed and let Randy, our excellent driver, do all the work.
Aby had arranged a special treat for us that evening in Jaipur. A trip by autorickshaw to Khatu Haveli. A little haven in Jaipur with amazing terrace views. The autorickshaws of Jaipur are small 3 wheeled taxis that have the added advantage of being able to dodge and weave through Jaipur's never ending traffic. They are painted yellow and green and designed to carry a maximum of 4 passengers although this is routinely flouted. A ride in a rickshaw is hectic, manic and much more fun that sat in a stuffy taxi!!
Our destination Khatu Haveli, built mid 19th Century. Since then, six generations of the Khatu family have lived in the magnificent Haveli. Khatu Haveli was built by Thakur Sobhag Singh. (Thakur is the title given to the ruler of the fiefdom). His son, Thakur Hari Singh was the Commander in Chief and Chief of Police in Jaipur during the pre-independence era; his only surviving grandson amongst six brothers, Brigadier Amar Singh and his wife Sushma Singh presently run a portion of the Heritage Haveli as a small boutique property. A haveli is a structure typically built around a courtyard. Khatu Haveli comprises of three spectacular courtyards and like most haveli's is characterized by magnificent arches, verandas, galleries and terraces. And this haveli was the setting for the BBC production of The Real Marigold Hotel. A group of celebrities (Jan Leeming, Patti Boylaye, Miriam Margolyes, Wayne Sleep, Rosemary Shrager, Roy Walker, Bobby George and Sylvester McCoy) visit India to explore the idea of retiring there. The party are initially unsettled by the heat and seething streets. We really enjoyed our visit to this charming and quaint 160 years old haveli and the Brigadier's tales of the filming. The gin and tonics and nibbles on the roof with a fabulous view of the Amber Fort, lit up at night was delightful.
On the journey home we passed the Albert Hall Museum, also beautifully lit at night.
Day 5 - All day tour of Jaipur.
Jaipur is a fascinating, beguiling place. Jaipur is actually one of Rajastan's youngest cities, having been founded in 1727 by Jai Singh II of the Kachchwaka royal family. At its heart lies Jai Singh's original capital, known as the Pink City. Jai Singh decreed that the city should be painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales when he visited Jaipur in 1853. Pink is the colour of hospitality!
Of course, not everyone got to go out in the wide streets of the new town to welcome His Royal Highness, the eventual Edward VII. One of the most striking buildings in the city is the Hawa Mahal, the place of winds, a tapered construction with 953 latticed windows, which permitted royal women to observe ceremonial processions without themselves being observed.
We drove past the ancient stalls of the bazaars, the domain of turbaned craftsmen sitting on white mattresses reading newspapers and drinking tea. Under wooden balconies, shop after shop is stuffed to the brim with bright sari fabrics. The peacock feather sellers, the hand-powered sugarcane juice stalls, the turbans lined along rooftops, the pyramids of sweet cakes on wooden carts on busy street corners, not to mention the motionless cows standing in the middle of the road, camel-hauled carts and three-wheelers with their own rules will enthrall.
Snake Charmer
Though the streets are just as crowded, the traffic just as chaotic and the beggars just as present, this city is much less frenetic than Delhi and there's something incredibly seductive about it. Of course, it's much smaller so the comparison is unfair, but nevertheless Jaipur is instantly intoxicating.
We stopped at the observatory, Jantar Mantar. This is a small park populated by giant versions of astronomers' instruments, one of which is the largest sundial in the world. Incredibly, it still measures the sun's shadows accurately today. It's like something out of Alice in Wonderland in its proportions, unreal yet still practical. For those of a scientific or mechanical turn of mind, Jaipur's Astronomical Observatory must be uniquely interesting. Maharajah Jai Singh was not only an inspired town planner and soldier of note, he was also an astronomer of distinction and the colossal instruments - 18 in total - that you can see in the observatory still perform today the functions for which they were designed.
It was then on to Jaipur's City Palace which has its own artisan area, sanctioned by the current Maharaja, who resides in one section of it and happens to be mates with Prince Charles.
The palace itself isn't terribly ostentatious, quite the opposite, with neat courtyards and glorious gates. An exception is the Peacock Gate (one of four), an ornate entrance decorated in a riot of bright, autumn tones.
We also saw the urns Maharaja Madho Singh II made to transport holy Ganges water to England when he came for Edward VII's coronation in 1902.
We were then taken to a carpet warehouse. There is nothing to beat the charm and persuasive sales techniques of Jaipur's carpet sellers. Absolutely smooth, wonderfully hospitable, and with endless amounts of patience, they showed us carpet after carpet until that special one was thrown on the floor and Clive's eyes lit up. They know that light. It is the end. They have seen Clive's interest and they know you will be taking this carpet home.
and Pauline too....
A few miles away is Amber Fort, the capital of Jaipur until 1727. It houses a glorious room covered, floor to ceiling, in tiny little pieces of mirror laid into the plaster in floral shapes. This palace was specially built for the queen. As she wanted to sleep under the stars but wasn't allowed by tradition to expose herself in open air, a palace was created with mirrors that could reflect the stars for her, thus granting her wish. Aside from the cooling effect of the mirrors, the palace is also made up of white marble. This is why some people also call it Sheesh Mahal, the Winter Palace. The last courtyard consists of several rooms that accommodated the wives and concubines of Raja Man Singh I, the king of Jaipur. It also has a public hall at the centre that served as a general receiving area. Interestingly, each wife or concubine was given her respective room with a secret passage for the king so that when he wanted to visit a certain woman, other women would not know about it. Some even said that the king had more concubines than wives and ended up with 4,000 children in his lifetime! But it's the position and view that really makes the visit worthwhile: as you come round the last bend on the short journey from Jaipur, the huge fort looms majestically into eyeshot.
Amber Fort lies on top of a hill, and you can either walk up or ride on an elephant's back - unfortunately the elephants only work in the morning. Aby had, however, arranged for us to travel by jeep.
On our return journey to the hotel we stopped at Chandlai Lake and were so lucky to spot flamingos.
Day 6
Today we are travelling on the Shatabdi Express Train from Jaipur to Ajmer, a journey of two and a half hours. The Shatabdi Express is one of the so-called "super fast trains" in India. While this may sound like it would be a really fast train, it is extremely slow for European standards with an average speed of 50 kilometres per hour.
As we waited on the platform for the arrival of the train the tea seller announced chai, chai. No one from our party took him up on his offer, even though it was just after breakfast and some looked like they could do with one. Thereafter followed a nonstop succession of cleaners to work on the trains whilst stopped at the station. All wore the same earnest expressions, with just a hint of self-importance. After all, they are proud employees of Indian Railways; the second largest employer in the world, which rewards its dedicated staff with benefits such as pensions and even accommodation. So with just a 90 second turnaround as a rule of thumb, we were swiftly settled into our coach class compartment of the Shatabdi Express.
It was not the Indian train journey I'd imagined, with people on the floors sharing platters of curries, juggling both live chickens and lively children, though perhaps this was the case in the unreserved carriage with its barred, open windows.
Coach class, in contrast, was a markedly civilised air-conditional affair with passengers sitting quietly, passing the time snoozing or texting from their iphones. A landscape of neat fields whizzed by. Occasionally, we spotted women in saris, the colours of luminous rainbows, cutting crops by hand, and lone shepherds in traditional dhoti (the sarong type dress) tending their flocks and squatting under trees chatting on mobiles.
From Ajmer we were then taken by coach to Pushkar for the annual Pushkar Camel Festival.
The moment you set foot in Pushkar during the Pushkar Camel Fair, you see nothing but people and more people and then some more people! It's a small village and the streets are pretty narrow so the crowd becomes a little overwhelming at times.
BUT....It's an experience worth having! The Mela grounds have fun rides, too many shopping and eating options, and fun activities lined up throughout the day. Various artists come to perform during this time. The scene is set as if you have flipped the pages of a history book back a few pages - large arid desert fields dotted with crowds of excited people in colourful clothes and turbans,horses and the camels waiting in all their magnificent glory, dressed with colourful saddles and bejewelled with embellishments.
Pushkar camel fair also falls during an important pilgrimage season for Hindus as the only Brahma temple in the world lies in Pushkar. The Pushkar lake is also considered sacred among Hindus, as they believe taking a dip in its waters washes away one's sins. One can also see a huge number of priests wearing saffron coloured robes.
I was poojad by a local guru on a ghat. They say, to attain Moksha, one needs to do a pooja here. Phil only donated a small amount and I feel it was worth it for the experience.
We stayed at the Pushkar Resort. A restful haven. As soon as we arrived I felt a weight lift from my shoulders, a true haven of calm and tranquillity. We stayed in a chalet in the beautiful grounds.
The Pushkar Camel Fair coincides with the night of the Full Moon, Kartik Purnima, and to celebrate the Pushkar Resort organised the most wonderful evening for us. Dinner outside with local dancers and fireworks.
Day 7 - Leaving Pushkar, we continued towards Nagaur Fort, a little-known fort cum-palace complex displaying a unique merging of Rajput and Moghul architecture. With its 800 year history and careful restoration, it well deserves its UNESCO recognition.
Nagaur Fort (more correctly the Ahhichatragarh Fort or the Fort of the Hooded Cobra). The old fort walls are 1.8 km long and thirty or forty feet high. We stop for a delightful lunch. Nestled within is a huge 17th century palace, within which the queens' quarters have been turned into a hotel so discreet you would hardly know it was a hotel.
In the medieval era Nagaur sat astride trade routes crossing north-south and east-west. With a dead flat plain all around, the defence of the fort depended on the military and economic power of its rulers. Nagaur Fort was one of the first Muslim strongholds in northern India. Built in the early 12th century and repeatedly altered over subsequent centuries, it witnessed many battles and changes of control. Moghul Emperor Akbar used it as his operational base in Rajasthan. The fort came to the Maharajas of Jodhpur in the 18th century. In 1752 the then Maharajah gave the fort to his brother Bakhat Singh, who built the current palace as a pleasure palace for his queens. He then appears to have lead a sybaritic existence with his queens while his brother got on with running the princely state of Marwar from Jodhpur. The Maharajah knew how to keep his brother occupied and out of his way!
The palace had fallen into a dreadful state of disrepair from the late 1940s onwards when it had been occupied by the government and the military. They had bricked up lots of the beautiful arches and doorways and generally abused and neglected the place. However, from 1993 it has been subject to a programme of renovation largely funded by the Getty Foundation and the Maharajah of Jodhpur. A team from the Courtauld Institute in London are still working on restoring the delicate wall paintings, most of which were whitewashed over when the Border Security Force used the palace as its base.
Another hours drive and we arrive at the haven of the Kimsar Fort. A lovely hotel, originally built in 1537 though so significantly rebuilt that it is hard to find the old stuff. Two lions stand at the entrance to the fort and are the perfect adornment on this 11 acres property. Smartly, turbaned and uniformed guards salute guests and within nano seconds, we are hooked on the spectacle of this unexpected resort. Perched on the edge of the Great Thar Desert in a very rural area, this was the ancestral home of Rao Karamsiji who was the eighth prince of Rao Jodhaji, Maharaja of Jodhpur. And Khimsar was one of the head houses of the Karamsot Rathors. Kunwar Gajendra Singh, the 19th descendant and his wife, still occupy a section of the fort as their residence.
The rooms of this 50 room hotel/fort are massive. Our room had a cushioned alcove we can sit in.
We wandered out to inspect the local Rao's vintage car collection, but resisted the not very strong urge to go and wander down to the dusty little village. Maybe in the morning...….
Day 8
We had two nights here on our tour of Rajasthan and the memories will linger. Our room was simply beautiful and the grounds outstanding. Rooftop areas provided 360 degree views of the surrounds. Pool area so relaxing.
In the afternoon we visited the Blackbuck reserve in jeeps and spotted Blackbuck and Bluebuck, two of the local antelope species. Driving in India is a life threatening affair. Many roads are just an unpaved single lane but the adeptness of the drivers, as they miss by inches oncoming trucks, is unquestionably, a great talent. The honking horns weren't out of rudeness, I soon discovered, but a warning to the hoards of trucks who have signs on their rear stating to please honk. As they move over to the side to let our jeep pass, I'm amazed there are no finger signals or hostile looks.
We then enjoyed a short camel cart ride to the sand dunes followed by tea and biscuits whilst watching the beautiful sunset over the dunes.
Facing a rectangular garden, the pool, the sprawling landscape, is the remnants of the old grey stoned fort, now the convenient location for our dinner. Dark intriguing niches had tables set with candle light. After dinner Indian dancers and musicians entertained us.
Day 9 -
In the North West of India lies the Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert. It's big and it's arid. Amongst this sea of golden sand you will find a splash of blue - the city of Jodhpur, our next destination. The old city surrounds the mighty Mehrangarh fort sitting high on the hill and is filled with blue cubed houses. Why are the houses blue? The blue was once an indicator of social class. The blue coating on the house used to indicate that it was the home of a Brahmin. Over time, this changed and more houses were coated in blue. It is said the blue also helps to keep the houses cool (quite handy in the hot desert) and that it has insect repelling abilities.
Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur is an epitome of glory and royalty and is one of the largest of forts in India. Rudyard Kipling has aptly said that the fort is "a palace that might have been built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun".
Sitting on a rocky cliff, the fort came into existence one year after Rao Jodha's accession to the throne. The fort is built on Bhakur-cheeria which means the "Mountain of Birds". The fort derives its name from Mehr-Garh, where "Mehr" means sun and "Garh" is fort (the Rathore dynasty was a believer in the sun god). This fort was built by Rao Jodha around 1460 and is enclosed within strongly fortified walls which stand strong even today. The struggle these walls withstood during battles are still noticeable today in the canon marks. The Mehrangarh Fort history says that a hermit who used to stay on the hill cursed Rao Jodha on being disturbed. The curse was that the fort would face droughts. Human sacrifices were made as preventive measures by the king. It is said that four people were buried alive at the four corners of the fort.
The fort has an impressive hall of mirrors, secret balconies and intricate sandstone carvings. Its museum houses Emperor Akbar's sword and antique belongings of the Maharajas.
Aby then organised a rickshaw ride to Jodhpur's historic heart, where we wandered around the narrow alleys of the Clocktower Market for brightly-coloured clothing, handicrafts and spices.
Followed by a delicious lunch at Khaas Bagh found by Aby. There was even a bevy of vintage cars, lined up, including four WWII jeeps.
Then more shopping for the group who wanted to buy pashminas and silk bedding.
Day 10.
Leaving Jodhpur behind us we drove east to the Aravali Hills, some of the planets oldest rocks. Here the landscape changed to smooth bare hilltops with lush narrow valleys, in one of which is Ranakpur. It has one of the finest Jain Temples constructed from white marble and 1,444 columns, of which no two are identical.
I think I looked up more than I looked down or ahead whilst inside the Temple. Its ceilings, domes, pillars, turrets and cupolas of light marble are carved so beautifully, almost lace-like in intricacy. There is one beautiful carving made out of a single marble rock where there are 108 heads of snakes and numerous tails and one cannot find the end of the tails.
And so to Udaipur, Rajasthan's most romantic city, which stands in a valley on the banks of Lake Pichola.
Imagine what it would be like to spend a night in a royal palace. Well we did, we lived like a modern day Maharajah. They say India is not for the faint hearted - that it's a shock to the senses. But things are changing in a country with a burgeoning middle class and a predicted future as an economic superpower.
Upon arrival in Udaipur we were taken to a jetty on the lake's edge. There before us lay the mesmerising magnificence of the white 18th century Taj Lake Palace, which floats, like a mirage, in the middle of Lake Pichola. Built in 1743, today it is the stellar attraction in Udaipur.
Dubbed the Venice of India, Udaipur is dotted with floating palaces and lakeside havelis. The lake and the city palace (Jag Niwas) were the setting for scenes in the James Bond move Octopussy.
"The Lady of the Lake" as the Lake Palace is known, is a fantasy of pearlescent white marble and coloured mosaic that glistens in the twilight. The view from the palace rooftop with its scalloped arches and niches is quite special - one of the best I've seen anywhere - incredible coloured stained glass windows look out over the water, intricate mirror work, fine glass mosaic inlays, thekri fretwork screens. The coloured glass and mirrorwork here is something unique to the Lake Palace and the city palace across the water.
The Lake Palace is the kind of place that takes you back in time, leaves you open mouthed and gob smacked, feeling decidedly overwhelmed and underdressed, wondering whether you've just stepped into a fictional world; a little like Alice in Wonderland stepping through the Looking Glass to find visual perfection and wonderment at every turn.
Rajasthan literally means "Land of the Kings" or as they were known "raj" and many of the formerly grand residences of the princes and maharajahs of Rajasthan in northeastern India have now opened as luxury resorts, new sources of revenue for their former owners and opulent, once-in-a-lifetime experiences for visitors.
Much like England's nobility and landed gentry, Rajasthan's maharajahs have leased or sold off the family "pile" to hotel groups like Taj, so Taj resorts, quite literally, are renovated palaces.
There are few hotels that can be described as islands unto themselves. The Lake Palace floats regally in the midst of the 696 hectare man-made Lake Pichola. The lake is prone to drying up during droughts. Even when there is no drought, the level of the water can vary by up to 4m in a season. Fortunately, the water taxi was purring as we arrived.
The gentle boat ride from the mainland, provided by the hotel, is the start of your trip down luxury lane.
A liveried doorman unfurls a beautiful umbrella and escorts us into an enchanting era. Scented rose petals fall as we enter.
The marble foyer, a sight to behold with its remarkably angled architecture and splendid cushions, is but a teaser of things to come. The staff are uber-courteous and ever-ready to make your stay pleasant. Every nuance takes your breath away. Your eyes skip from one thing of beauty to the next - the symmetrical and serene Lily Pond, the terraces, the alcoves, the gardens, the corridors.
Day 11
The next day begins with a morning city tour, visiting the City Palace with its dramatic façade, paintings, mosaics and intricately carved ' chhatris'.
The afternoon is spent enjoying the hotel's pool.
Dinner was on the rooftop. Perfect, candle lit tables on a rooftop setting overlooking the splendid lake. A romantic and beautiful setting but...……..
Day 12
All six of us were up during the night with Taj Lake (Delhi) belly. Had to call the Doctor who prescribed very powerful antibiotics, etc. etc.
Somehow or another we all managed to transfer to Udaipur Airport for our afternoon flight to Delhi and then after a 4 hours wait a connecting flight to Amritsar.
Day 13
Our first visit of the day is to the site of the Amritsar Massacre, where in 1919 a nationalist demonstration of unarmed locals were fired upon by the British authorities. Thousands of Indians were in the walled garden of Jallianwala Bagh that day. Urged by Gandhi, they were there to express their disgust and fury at the legislation Sidney Rowlatt, had authored. Almost a century on, it is worth remembering just how shameful the events at Amritsar were. It was a moving experience to visit. Our guide led us through a narrow passageway and into the garden. This is the route the commander of British forces, Brigadier General Reginald Dyer, took with his 90 troops. They formed into two semi-circles, aiming out into the crowd and blocking the only exit. Without warning they opened fire. They maintained the fusillade for 10 minutes, firing 1,650 rounds and killing at least 379 people (unofficial Indian sources put the numbers higher). We were also shown the well where many people dived for cover. They recovered 120 bodies from there. They offered no aid to the injured. I'm astonished the Indians in the garden appear to feel no animosity towards us.
And next you simply can't miss visiting the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It's official name is actually Harmandir Sahib (which means abode of God) but the Golden temple name is commonly used by tourists due to the temple being covered in real gold. The Golden Temple is the most important Gurudwara and the holiest place for Sikhs that draws millions of pilgrims and tourists every year.
The Golden Temple is located in Amritsar (which translates to the tank of nectar of immortality) in Punjab in North West India and is simply beautiful.
Just Wow! My first glimpse of the beautiful Golden Temple!
The Golden Temple is the jewel of a much bigger complex that contains more shrines and monuments, a museum, dining hall (langar) and pilgrims' accommodation.
The Harmandir Sahib was built to be a place of worship where men and women from all religions, caste and all walks of life could come and worship God equally. This is why it has four entrances in the North, East, South and West, to demonstrate that people from all four corners of the earth are welcome here.
The Golden Temple in all its glory. The Gurudwara dates back to 1577 and was founded by the 4th Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das but the present-day gurdwara was rebuilt in 1764. The temple is mostly made out of marble but it is gold plated with real gold which gave it it's English name - The Golden Temple. The Golden Temple is the holiest place for Sikhs who are distinctive due to the turbans they wear (because they don't cut their hair for religious reasons). They also always carry a dagger.
The water that surrounds the gleaming central shrine is known as the Amrit Sarovar (which means Pool of Nectar). It is surrounded by a marble walkway and the water is said to have properties and healing powers so pilgrims come here to take a dip in the holy water. It was so interesting to watch the Sikhs bathe in the sacred lake. Sikh children of every age were taken to the waters edge, stripped of their clothes, and dipped into the waters. Older Sikhs also stripped down to boxers and soaked themselves in the waters.
The Golden Temple is open to everyone but all visitors must remove their shoes and socks, wash their feet and cover their heads before entering. Women wear scarves and there are little orange headscarves for men that they can buy or borrow at the entrance and you walk through water to cleanse your feet.
The main event is at the end of a long floating causeway and close up you see the marble on the lower half is adorned with flowers and animal motifs similar in style to those seen on the Taj Mahal. The shimmering upper half is covered in intricately engraved gold panels and topped by a dome gilded with 750 kg of gold. Inside the opulent but quite small temple the Guru Granth Sahib, the Sikh holy book, takes pride of place while priests and musicians chant continuously and quite mermerisingly.
The Golden Temple's beauty lies not just in the building itself but in the people and pilgrims who visit, the volunteers who keep the place running and the special serene atmosphere of this place. An army of volunteers keep the place sparkling clean and serve up to 100,000 vegetarian meals free everyday, all day and to everyone who visits. There is also a station serving free sweet and milky chai.
After a short rest back at the hotel it was time to set out for the Wagah Border Ceremony.
The Wagah Border Ceremony, located on the highway between Amritsar and Lahore, is definitely something I have never seen before.
After completing 1 km of security checks, we finally managed to get in and witness the vast majesty of the stadium People decked in colourful sarees and traditional costumes filled the stands and soldiers embellished with badges and pins stood firm, guarding the prestigious ceremony. We were ushered to the tourists' seats, away from the locals.
Soldiers partaking in the ceremony - the Border Security Force (BSF) - had red head gear, spreading out like a peacock's feathers. It was a really unique ceremonial uniform; pretty but also giving an aura of importance and solemnity.
All of a sudden the action began. Popular local music blasted through the speakers in front of our stand and local females started to walk to the centre of the "stage". They were slowly moving their bodies to the music and they then broke out into a cheerful dance. Only women were allowed to join the party while men watched from the stands with their smartphones and cameras aloft.
When the festivities finished, the ceremony began and soldiers thrusted their legs upwards and manoeuvred passive aggressively. They marched into neat formations and often kicked their legs high up as a way of displaying strength. The parade was really grand and exhibited the discipline of the soldiers guarding the border. It was also to show Pakistan how united India is - with their soldiers ever-ready and loyal to the country.
The competitive cheering between the two nations, with each shout getting louder on both sides, also gave me chills. The atmosphere was intense and filled with nationalistic fervour and I have never witnessed anything like this before.
After an hour of parade and cheering, the ceremony came to an end with soldiers from each side standing off and shaking hands. It is alternatively a symbol of the two countries' rivalry, as well as brotherhood and co-operation between the two nations. The show was over and the crowd soon dissipated.
We returned to the hotel for a quick dinner without alcohol because we were returning to the Golden Temple for the putting to bed ceremony.
This daily ritual of putting the Holy Scripture to bed is a sight not to be missed. The temple is arguably at its best at night, when it's illuminated and the central promenade leading to the inner sanctum is lit with strings of lights. Chanting begins as the book is placed upon an embroidered pillow and carried to the Akal Takht, a five-tiered marble building, to rest for the night.
The Golden Temple is a truly special place, one that has left a massive inprint on my heart and one place that you simply have to visit for yourself to really appreciate it, especially at night...…
This extraordinary tour to this fascinating and colourful part of the world means I am returning home with some truly enchanting memories. Thank you Paul and Aby and Riviera Travel for all the fantastic organisation that went into making this holiday so wonderful. And thank you Phil for wanting to go in the first place. Not to mention Clive and Rosie and Tony Pauline for their excellent company - it made the holiday.
