It's September 23rd - the autumnal equinox. From now until March, the days will be shorter than the nights. We know what's coming: fog and frost, cloud and gloom. Clearly, it is time to top up on the sunshine.
We arrived at Faro airport and collected the hire car with minimal fuss and drove down an almost deserted motorway, paying the tolls as we went (most locals use the EN 125 to avoid the tolls) to our apartment in Rocha Brava. Oohing and aahing at the enormous birds of paradise as we entered the complex. Rocha Brava itself is a resort village of villas and apartments of various shapes and sizes. However, one of the really appealing things about the village is how it is landscaped. A lot of thought obviously went into the planning of the grounds so that the different units are separated by trees, bushes, shrubs and paths, providing a sense of privacy and giving it a cute village vibe. Our apartment was lovely with a fabulous sunny terrace where we immediately enjoyed an icy pint of Sagres beer and a glass of Vinho Verde - the local, light and slight fizzy wine.
We call this Jamie's hill. Remember Grandad walking hand in hand with little one year old Jamie up this hill two years ago.
The light on the Algarve is fantastic. To draw the curtains each morning and see the high blue skies and the bright, energising light never failed to raise my spirits.
After a lazy day, getting our tans started by the pool, we packed up our towels and drove to Algar Seco, just down the road and had a pre-sundowner at the Boneca Bar, hidden in the rock formation. Such a novel spot for a cocktail. Afterwards we walked along the Carvoeiro boardwalk spanning the cliff-tops between Algar Seco and Nossa Senhora da Encarnacao Fort at Carvoeiro. This wooden walkway takes you out across the cliffs in a safe, easy and distinctively pleasurable manner. The all-encompassing panorama and gentle sea breeze was a delight to the senses, especially as the sun was going down. 30 years ago Carvoeiro was an unspoiled fishing village. Today, its chief catch is tourists, who flock here for the idyllic beaches, steep cliffs and plethora of restaurants.
We set off early the next day and did the cliff top walk from Rocha Brava to Praia do Carvalho. This walk took us approximately two hours at a leisurely pace, there and back. We turned right at the main entrance and then turn right down the tarmac road to the Lighthouse. Following the path to the left in front of the Lighthouse there are wooden posts marked with red and yellow lines. These are the signposts that mark the walk to Carvalho beach. The walk is part of the seven hanging valleys coastline walk from Carvoeiro with stunning views. The paths are uneven, sandals and flip flops are not recommended. At the bottom of the first long flight of steps (133), turn sharp left. Carvalho beach was a smugglers' cove in bygone days. The walk down the next 36 steps through a tunnel (with several fossils) in the cliff rock is tortuous but well worth it, the entrance to the beach is amazing, there is also a small room carved into an area to the left of the steps. But most spectacular is the sea stack in the middle of the bay. No facilities.
The next day we walked from the Lighthouse (turn right) to Rocha Brava on the cliff top. A good walk with great views again but quite steep and slippery as we approached Rocha Brava. Lazy today, this walk only took us half an hour.
After so much exercise we greatly enjoyed our afternoon of wine tasting with Filipe, who expertly guided us through the wines of Portugal. I now love Rose wine.
Once you have a car, the Algarve is your oyster and you'll have the best holiday ever. We drove to Mt. Foia, the highest point in the Algarve. As we drove on the N266 we stopped for petrol on the left hand side of the road and noticed four Storks sitting on their nests.
Further along on the right we visited Parque da Mina. Certainly worth a visit. The original 18th century manor house is seeped in history. How the rich folk used to live before electricity and running water. Many eclectic artifacts and antiques. We were the only visitors and had the very pleasant English speaking guide to ourselves.
Can you see the very small bat on the ceiling?
Continuing on, the N266 brings you into Caldas and from here the climb begins in earnest. We stopped in Monchique but were somewhat disappointed. However, the 16th century Igreja Matrix, the town's church, on the cobbled Rua da Igreja behind the main square has a wonderful Manueline doorway with twisted columns resembling gnarled rope.
We stopped at A Rampa Restaurant on our way up to Mt. Foia. Don't judge a book by its cover. This place has a shabby old world charm. Clinging to the side of the rocky Monchique hill, if you took one look you would probably drive right past, but then you have to ask why are so many cars parked outside. Chicken Piri Piri is the reason why you need to stop off here. It's a whole chicken diced up into portions so you can share one between two, or if you are really hungry have one each. We decided on one and a half. Comes with a large helping of chips and salad.
We then continued up to Mt. Foia where there are spectacular views to the west coast and to the south. Elevation of 902 metres.
We returned to Rocha Brava via Alferce, a very pretty scenic route.
The next day we visited Benagil beach. A small cove with impressive cliffs at either end. Phil went for a swim but I thought it was a little too rough and cold! Lots of sea shells. Loved watching all the boats visiting the Benagil cave and the paddle boarders getting into the water through the large waves.
After researching the most beautiful beach in the Algarve we drove to Praia da Marinha. The beach is jaw-droppingly gorgeous, photos do not do it justice.
You could easily spend every day driving along the coast and visiting a different beach. Each one has it's own character and they are all stunning and, with each hidden bay, you feel like you've stumbled upon a little secret.
For a change we did a delightful cruise up the River Arade from Ferragudo to Silves in a gaily painted boat with storks and flamingos gliding in the sky above us. We also saw an eagle and lots of herons. River trips vary according to the tides, so advance booking is essential (www.ferragudoboattrips.com). We left Ferragudo at 9 a.m. and returned at 1.30 p.m. with an hour and a half for sightseeing in Silves.
As we approached the town of Silves, you could see the castle looming, very impressive. The boat stopped just outside the fish, fruit and vegetable market which was very colourful, being Saturday, when the local farmers set up their stalls.
Then a climb up to the Castle.. We wandered around the walls, it was all very interesting and the views were beautiful. It is a shame there isn't more left of the Castle but nonetheless, you could feel what a great castle this must have been. Afterwards we had a refreshing glass of fresh orange juice in the shade of the Castle at Café Ingles.
The town itself is wonderful with lots of little shops but streets are a little bit treacherous since the cobble stones have been worn to a slick shiny finish and some of the streets are very steep but that kind of adds to the fun. However, I would not suggest wandering around after rain as that could be a bad fall waiting to happen. The street electrical boxes have also been turned into pieces of art in Silves. So much nicer than of old when they were often used to stick political posters on. They also decorate their olive trees - not sure why.
The impressive statue of Dom Sancho who drove the Moors out of Silves in 1189 (they subsequently returned the following year and stayed until the middle of the thirteenth century).
The Rio Arade was long an important route into the interior for the Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians, who wanted the copper and iron action in the southwest of the country. With the Moorish invasion from the 8th century, the town gained prominence due to its strategic hilltop, riverside site. From the mid-11th to the mid-13th centuries, Shelb, as it was then known, rivalled Lisbon in prosperity and influence: according to the 12th-century Arab geographer Idrisi, it had a population of 30,000, a port and shipyards, and "attractive buildings and well-furnished bazaars". The town's downfall began in June 1189, when Dom Sancho 1 laid siege to it, supported by a horde of (mostly English) hooligan crusaders, who had been persuaded (with the promise of loot) to pause in their journey to Jerusalem and given Sancho a hand. The Moors holed up inside their impregnable castle with their huge cisterns, but after three hot months of harassment they ran out of water and were forced to surrender. Sancho was all for mercy and honour, but the crusaders wanted the plunder they were promised, and stripped the Moors of their possessions (including the clothes on their backs) as they left, tortured those remaining and wrecked the town. Two years later the Moors recaptured the town. It wasn't until 1249 that Christians gained control once and for all. But by then Silves was a shadow of its former self. The silting up of the river - which caused disease and stymied maritime trade - coupled with the growing importance of the Algarvian ports hastened the town's decline. Devastation in the 1755 earthquake seemed to seal its fate. But in the 19th century, local cork and dried-fruit industries revitalised Silves, hence the grand bourgeois architecture around the town. Today tournism and agriculture are the town's lifeblood.
On our return to Ferragudo we drove over the bridge to Portimao and had lunch, Portugese style, at Dona Barca Taberna. Six sardines each accompanied with salad, bread, chips and wine and understood why it is so popular. Good food and extremely good value for money. 24 Euros. A meal to remember with the freshest plate of sardines, lightly grilled, drizzled with olive oil and a chilled white Vinho Verde.
A great place to end each day is with a drink at O Stop at Vale de Centeanes beach. The view is incredible especially at sunset.
Beautiful sunsets from our balcony too.
The Alvor boardwalk is a must! Such beautiful scenery from start to finish. Miles of boardwalk over dunes on stunning beach.
And for a fabulous day out, Go West. Everything changes where the motorway ends. Suddenly, just beyond Lagos, there are no more superstores, no more water-parks, no more billboards for party nights: the pinky-white condominia of the central Algarve no longer glimmer on the horizon. The cars on the road look dustier and older (as did ours when we returned to Rocha Brava). Wind down the window and the scent of eucalyptus and ozone-packed sea air floods in. Today we were heading to Praia da Bordeira just 55 minutes from Rocha Brava but a million miles from the secluded little bays. Wow what a beach, 3 kilometres of beautiful sand. Took our breath away! Large sandy beach with strong waves. Surfers love this beach but we didn't surf on the large waves but really enjoyed our walk along the beach - reminded us of South Africa. If you stop as soon as you see cars parked, you'll need to walk a long way across sand to the sea (its a large beach). Much better to drive up the hill where there is another place to park and from this spot you'll reach the beach in 5 minutes via a boardwalk. This beach is probably one of the most beautiful natural beaches in the world! Absolutely visit, not necessarily a safe bathing beach, but good to walk!
We then followed the dirt road, by car, along the coast to Praia do Amado and stopped for lunch at O Sitio do Forno (closed Mondays). Had a wonderful lunch here. We both shared a mixed fish cataplana, which was superb. Plenty of fresh fish plus clams, mussels and prawns, with potatoes and onions. Bruno, our waiter, explained that it was the best choice, compared with the monkfish cataplana, as it was fresh fish, whereas the monkfish is not local. It was plenty for the two of us and the location is superb with extra ordinary ocean and cliff views on the cliff overlooking Praia do Amado. Worth a trip a little bit out of the way.
There are also the ruins of a seasonal settlement of Muslim fishermen (12th century) on the cliff top just outside the restaurant.
We then drove home via Salema. Famous for boasting a rare set of dinosaur footprints. The beach at Salema is quite long and has nice golden sand. At the western end of the beach you can find a big flat yellow rock with, honestly, footprints from a dinosaur. Took us a while to find because, would you believe it, a gentleman was lying on top of them with his towel. Only when he got up to go for a swim did we spot them. I don't think he had any idea!!!
We then stopped at Ponta da Piedade - can't quite believe nature did this, emerald green waters.
On Wednesday afternoons between 14.00 and 16.00 the Lighthouse (Alfanzina Farol) is open to the public. There is no charge but we did tip the lighthouse keeper. He speaks good English and is very friendly. You have to climb a total of 100 steps, the last few being very narrow. At the top you can see the light (1000 watt) and 1 tonne prism that sits on a lake of mercury. It can be turned with the fingers of one hand, it is so well designed. The beam reaches out 29 nautical miles (around 34 statute miles) and flashes twice every 14 seconds. You have to back down the last few steps to descent, and please don't touch the prism itself as the sweat from your hands will mark the glass. Everything was so clean and polished. A delight and good views too.
Met up with our friends Maureen and Graeme, who were also holidaying in the Algarve, and spent a delightful afternoon with them. Graeme very kindly treated us to lunch. Maureen and I had fresh fish, grilled to perfection and served with salad and chips. One of the most delicious meals you could wish for. Thank you so much.
And the weather? It was perfect for the whole two weeks 29 degrees every day. Can't wait to return.
