The thought of a week on a 44 ft sailing boat made me long for the villa in Mallorca that didn't sway, a decent cupboard where I could hang a freshly ironed linen dress and a proper loo where you don't have to put the paper in a scented nappy sack. But the truth is you soon get used to it. And I was excited.
There are a 1,000 or so islands along the Dalmatian coast, and as our plane made it's descent to Split they were tantalisingly spread out beneath us in a wide ribbon. There can be no better way, I convinced myself from several thousand feet, than to explore them by boat - better still, as your master and commander.
So with our provisions crammed into the fridge, our overstuffed suitcases decanted into the rationed locker space we were ready.
Clive, Rosie and I have already acquired the basic skills from our previous flotilla holidays (i.e. I know that 'heads' is not just the opposite of 'tails', a 'sheet' isn't just something to sleep on, and a 'painter' is not the chap splashing on the Farrow and Ball and you don't follow maps when you're sailing, you use charts. Maps are for treasure hunters).
On our first night, before we set off on our sailing adventure, we visited Trogir, a beautiful historic town set within medieval walls, listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. The architecture is mostly from the time of Venetian rule and is some of the best preserved in Europe. We found a lovely restaurant hidden in the cobbled, maze-like streets. Couldn't begin to tell you how to find it!
We were on the Sunsail Krka Flotilla described as a tranquil week surrounded by breathtaking beauty. The flotilla has a lead boat, Krka One, that acts like a mother duck, making sure we leave one port and arrive at the next safely. There are five other boats in our flotilla - Cinnamon, Lucy-on-Sea, Munlochy Bay, Staco and us, Rosa 1.
On day one Skipper Michael and his crew, Gulas and Sally, brief us on the winds, plotting our course, sharing local knowledge, booking moorings and helping out with any boat-related issues that might, and do, arise - an invaluable service whatever your sailing background. It's a little like having your own attentive yet discreet entourage. Each day our task is to sail to a new port, but on the way we are free to find a bay in which to anchor, or take a longer route.
Our flotilla group is a mixed catch of sailors: some salty sea dogs for whom sailing is second nature; a French family who sail every year with two adorable todders, new recruits sailing with a Sunsail skipper, an all girl crew and us!
While I'm keen to learn about 'lazy lines' (although Rosie is the expert) I'm also here for the relaxation. It's not all sunbathing however; sometimes there's a need for all hands on deck when the wind arrives. The engine accelerates with a roar, and in no time the gusts are whirling all around us. Soon the low, mechanical drone of the engine is replaced with the sound of staining ropes and the bluster of the sails. We're off on our way, and for the very first time I'm starting to feel just a little bit like a real sailor. Without our skipper Phil to keep everyone calm and safe though we'd likely be having a major morale crisis. He is brilliant, supervising us as we tack up-wind and giving jobs to all hands.
Holiday Logbook Day 1 19th June, 2016 Agana Marina (Sunsail Base) to Masclinica
We left at 11.45 hours and were sailing by noon.
For lunch we anchored in the crystal clear waters of Krknjasi blue lagoon. Very popular with other sailors. Phil enjoying Father's Day.
Phil moored up at Masclinica on Solta Island at 16.45 hours, a small village dominated by a beautiful old castle which is now a luxury hotel,and in no time we were sitting contentedly drinking beer and champagne.
Whilst Gulas zips up our sail bag. Good man. (We are too short!).
Then it was the Sunsail punch party ashore on the town quay at 18.30 hours. An enjoyable social dimension with those aboard the other yachts. Then dinner at Sampier. A hilltop restaurant with gorgeous views but expensive. It's the end of a long day, however, so we head back to "the floating villa". Rain and thunderstorms overnight.
Day 2 Masclinica to Kaprije - Mooring Buoys
We left Masclinica at 09.30 hours and we were sailing by 09.45 hours. It was a rough sea with an unpleasant swell so we didn't stop for lunch. We had the bucket at the ready but fortunately no one used it!!! We sailed all the way arriving at Kaprije at 16.00 hours.
Excellent night's sleep on a lovely calm sea - no noise and we woke to beautiful sunshine.
Day 3 Kaprije to Skradin
We left Kaprije at 10.10 hours and we were sailing by 10.20 hours. Goosewing part of the way.
Our destination Skradin. The gateway between the sea and Krka National Park.
We anchored at the entrance to the River for lunch.
On the way up the winding Krka river we motored (no sailing allowed in the river) thro' "Mussel Lane", a stretch lined with mussel beds where we stopped to buy the fresh mussels.
Skradin is a picturesque Dalmatian town with narrow cobbled streets and venetian architecture dating back to the 18th century. Croatian was playing Spain in the Euro Cup and every time Croatia scored the church bells rang out. We ate at Konoba Toni in the old town and tried the traditional Croatian delicacy "peka", a combination of meat and potatoes slow cooked for 2-4 hours. Very good.
In the morning we left Rosa 1 early to visit Krka National Park. No one is allowed to sail in the National Park but there is a free ferry service from Skradin up the final part of the river to the last, largest and most famous of the Krka waterfalls; Skradinski Buk. We caught the 8 a.m. ferry and the journey took 20 minutes. It was so peaceful.
Tickets can be purchased upon entry to the park. We thought we would have breakfast on arrival but unfortunately the restaurants didn't open until about 10.00 a.m. But the pancakes tasted even better at the end of our visit. So glad we visited early and had the waterfalls almost to ourselves because by 10 a.m. it was getting very busy. The waterfalls are really beautiful and well worth the visit. There is a long walkway all around the park on a wooden pathway which meanders through trees and over and around the waterfalls. The water is teeming with fish of all sizes. Clive and Phil opted to swim at the base of the waterfall (It is a bit rocky so suggest watershoes).
Today was our free sailing day and we were free to choose where we wanted to spend the night.
We left Skradin at 12.45 hrs and headed for Privic. The wind was too strong to sail and we elected to have lunch on the go so we could get to Privic early in order to find a mooring on the small town quay. The bay is open to the winds and a Bora was blowing which made for a fun mooring. Phil was disappointed with his attempt as he forgot to use the bow thruster but subsequent arrivals proved what a good sailor Phil is. Attempt after attempt, followed by boats leaving and then a really bad collision!!!! We really missed Michael helping us and had to arrive early at 15.00 hrs in order to find a space. Lovely dinner by the waters edge but it was a noisy night with a party boat moored close to us.
Day 5 Privic - Rogoznica
We departed Privic at 9.15 hours and were sailing by 9.30. We anchored (4th attempt was successful) at Primosten at 12.00 for lunch and stayed until 14.00. Then sailed to Jaz where we anchored again and had afternoon tea 14.45 to 15.15 hrs. A leisurely day.
Clive keeping an eye on me whilst Phil relaxes.....
We arrived at Rogoznica at 16.00 hrs with Clive as the Skipper. Well done Clive.
This evening was the Cocktail Competition and during our leisurely day Clive had worked very hard to carve a shark out of a watermelon which we then filled with our cocktail. Frozen watermelon, cranberry juice, rum and lemonade. After cocktails the whole Flotilla went for a group meal. Leaning back in our chairs, replete, we watched the swallows flitting in and out of their nests in the beautiful old buildings.
We wake to the news that the UK has voted to leave the EU. We all listened on an ipad in stunned silence as the Prime Minister, David Cameron resigned. " I will do everything I can as Prime Minister to steady the ship, but I don't think it would be right for me to try to be the captain that steers our country to the next destination".
Our next destination was Agana Marina (Sunsail Base). We left at 10.00 hours and motored to our lunch spot Mali Drvenik arriving at 12.15 hrs. The best anchorage and a fabulous swim in crystal clear water.
Great excitement as Rosie spotted five dolphins off the starboard bow.
We arrived safely back at 16.45 hrs. What a wonderful final day spent idling between bays before reaching our journey's end. Clive putting the fenders out for the final time.
We meet the rest of the flotilla group for prize giving and are pleased to be told we have won the Cocktail Competition. Clive proposes a vote of thanks to Michael and his crew for looking after us so well. Superb lead crew.
Day 7 - Disembark yacht by 9 a.m.
We return to solid ground on unsteady legs now that the familiar lilting movement of the Adriatic is no longer underfoot but I have a treasure chest of memories.
