We arrived in Cape Town to a beautiful view from the aircraft window of Table Mountain. The weather was cold but it soon warmed up and during our stay we had beautiful blue skies and warm days. Very lucky because we were told it had been wet and cold.
Sunset from our bedroom window
The next day we hired a car and left our beautiful hotel, The Lord Charles at Somerset West and headed to Gordon's Bay on the R44, stopping for breakfast at the Twin Oceans Restaurant on Beach Road in the seaside resort of Gordon's Bay.
We sat outside and admired how Gordon's Bay is set against the steep slopes of the Helderberg.
Not sure I would swim here though!
After a very enjoyable breakfast in the sunshine with views of False Bay
we followed the Beach Road through Gordon's Bay, via Clarence Drive (R44) en route towards Hermanus. This is the Whale Coast Route.
One of the finest coastal drives in the world. It really is a stunning drive via Betty's Bay (where you can stop to observe the penguins if you like) to the R43 where you head down to Hermanus.
This south coast town offers the best land-based whale watching available anywhere. A 'whale
crier' informs tourists exactly where the best vantage points are at a given time. The sound of his kelp horn has become a characteristic of the charm of this seaside resort during whale season. Different horn 'codes' refer to different points along the coastline where whales have been spotted. The key to these codes is found on his sandwich board as well as the number of whales spotted at each location. Mr. Salukazana does his rounds along the coastline between 10.00 and 16.00 hours during the whale season between June and November. The best time for viewings is September to late October when sitings are practically guaranteed on a daily basis. The whales in question are southern right whales, so called because they were considered the 'right' whales to hunt and, at places, they come to within 5m of the shore. Walker Bay is one of the favoured bays for southern right whales to calve and mate. A fully grown whale is about 14m long and may weigh up to 40 tons.
A 12km long cliff path stretches from one end of Hermanus to the other providing the best terrestrial whale-watching vantage points in the world. In the past we have seen whales frolicking as close as five metres from the shore at Siever's Punt, one of the most rewarding spots for whale watching.
Unfortunately, today there were out at sea but with binoculars it was still very entertaining.
We had booked lunch at Mogg's country Cookhouse so decided to leave the whales for a while and return after lunch.
On the way to Mogg's take a drive along Rotary Way. Better sited for those who want the same views that the hikers enjoy, without all the effort. Drive out of Hermanus towards Cape Town. Roughly 4 km from the centre, at the entrance to Mount Pleasant, you will see a turn off to your right with large white pillars labelled Rotary Way. You will have a bird's eye view of the whole of Walker Bay. From Rotary Way there are also spectacular views up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley where we were heading for lunch. Tucked into the folds of Glen Vauloch mountains on the outskirts Hermanus lies the picturesque Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Back to the main road (R43) turn right towards Cape Town and then take the R320 to Caledon. You will drive pass some of the southernmost vineyards in Africa. We also saw a troop of Baboons sitting by the side of the road.
Mogg's Country Cookhouse is a family run restaurant on a beautiful farm with magical views of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Truly beautiful. They only do lunch Wed - Sun. Last order in by 2pm and no credit card facilities.
By appointment only. Tel: 028 312 4321 Cell: 076 314 0671
e mail: moggscookhouse@gmail.com. website: www.moggscookhouse.com
It is quite hard to find and the day we visited quite an adventure because the previous week's rain had left big potholes. But it is worth the effort. This was the easy bit.
Directions: From the R43 take the R320 to Caledon. Drive 11 kms. Signboard on the left, turn on to Nuew Pos Farm and follow the Mogg's signs to The Cookhouse.
We were the only customers on this day but the dogs came out to welcome us as we checked the underside of the car for possible pot hole damage. Fortunately, none. Inside a lovely log fire welcomed us.
Lots of Mogg's art everywhere
and views from the terrace:-
This lavender decorates the dishes.
After a truly delicious meal in a beautiful rustic setting we decided to return to Hermanus.
This time we decided to stop at Roman Rock on the cliff path.
As soon as we parked the car we could see two gentle giants lolling just about 10m off shore.
We could hear the whale blows, a sound made when they expel air from their lungs through the blowhole, sometimes accompanied by a spout, several metres of condensed water vapour that heralds the end of a breathing session. How wonderful. They were also Spyhopping. The whale lifts its head and body vertically above the water surface, high enough to see above water level. The whales seemed to enjoy peering around at us on shore!!
A truly excellent day. Wonderful whale viewing, excellent food and sunny skies.
As we headed home back along the coast road we just drank in the beautiful scenery.
We also stopped at Kogelbaai, renowed for surfing and shark attacks. A boy was killed here in April by a shark but nothing seems to deter the surfers even when the red flag is flying.
A little bit more sun before heading home to England's summer bank holiday - wet I bet.
