Miss Victoria of Oban

Sunday

Our sailing holiday aboard Miss Victoria, a Jeannneau Sun Odyssey 409 boat

with Andy and Lynda and Clive and Rosie

began at Dunstaffnage Marina, which is situated just three miles from the centre of Oban, Scotland.
One of the most surprising sensations to me still after a couple of sailing trips is the moment the ropes are first slipped from their moorings and your home is suddenly drifting off somewhere entirely new.

We motored north east up Loch |Linnhe for about ten miles to Appin where we climbed aboard the dingy to go ashore for a seafood dinner at The Pier House Hotel.  Delicious.

Monday

We left our mooring at 09.10 and sailed to Loch Aline for lunch.  Gorgeous spot where the shores are steep and thickly wooded.  The fairytale Ardtornish Castle sits at the head of the loch.

After lunch we headed for the temptingly named Loch Drambuie and anchored in the SW Corner.

Most picturesque and attractive anchorage but lots of midges.

Caught mackeral at dusk

which we all ate for breakfast.

They were so fresh the boat didn't smell of fish at all.  Delicious.

Very calm overnight.

Tuesday

We left Drambuie at 09.30

and sailed pass Ardnamurchan Pt. Lighthouse to Muck

where we dropped anchor twice due to the ferry arriving and us being too close.

Muck is an attractive island to visit with a cafe ashore that serves wonderful fresh crab sandwiches.

At 15.00 hrs we set off again and sailed to Rhum

passing Eigg, the most easterly of the Small Isles.

Just off Whispering Sands, Eigg, half a dozen common dolphins came to play.

Miss Victoria sailed on amid the school of dolphins as they swam alongside the boat displaying their acrobatic skills.  The most engaging wildlife spectacle.

We sailed on to Rhum and as you approach the rugged mountains set a dramatic stage.

We anchored in Loch Scresort at 18.15 hrs., an inlet more than a mile long on the east side of Rhum.

Overlooking Loch Scresort sits the reddish form of Kinloch (means 'at the head of the loch') Castle, an extravagant Edwardian dream, commissioned by wealthy industrialist George Bullough in 1897.  The stone was shipped over in his yacht from Annan in Dumfriesshire and it is said that he paid the workmen extra to wear kilts and smoke pipes (midges).

Dinner at Castle Bistro.

Quite a swell during the night.

Wednesday

Didn't leave Rhum until 15.10 hours so time to stretch the legs and enjoy walking on Rhum.

The largest of the Small Isles, Rhum is spectacularly mountainous.  Magnificent scenery with excellent walks and outstanding views.

Phil climbed to the top of one of the Trolls

whilst I sat and enjoyed the view!

Also did a tour of Kinloch Castle which was very interesting.

Over the Sea to Skye.

Dominating the skyline for miles is the Island of Skye with the mighty Cullin Ridge and the Red Cullins forming the mountainous backbone of the Island.

The weather was hot today so let's celebrate

Clive seeking a mahogany tan

and as we passed Point of Sleat, a beautiful beach, Andy promised a picnic there the next day.

Approaching Inverie we passed a white plastic monumental statue of Madonna at the southeast point of Rubha Raonuill.  A copy of a marble one they had ordered but which was too heavy for a boat to deliver.

Picked up a mooring buoy at Loch Nevis and had dinner at pub, the Old Forge, the most remote pub in UK (good showers too).  Quite calm night.  Woke to dingy knocking us awake.

Thursday

The weather forecast was grim: rain followed by showers, then showers followed by rain.  So with the weather threatening storms Andy decided we should head for the shelter of Tobermory.  (Sadly no picnic at Sleat).  We left the mooring at 09.10 and then at 10.15  with motor off and full sail raised the incredible moment when all is silence bar the waves and the wind, a few seabirds - and somehow this boat is zipping through the water, sucked on by the strange magic ( or aerodynamics as the guys explained) of the sail.  Even, perhaps particularly, with overcast skies the panoramas were something else: clouds rolling over clifftops with forested slopes and ruined castles (for Clive) to port and starboard as we sailed.  At 13.50 we dropped anchor at Sanna Bay.  A delightful sandy bay

One and a half miles northeast of Ardnamurchan lighthouse.  We all went ashore

and Clive and Andy went for a swim (Brr....)

Water temp. 12 degrees

007?!

We then motored to Tobermory, arriving at 17.50 and picked up the buoy on the third attempt. (Whoops!)

Dinner on board.  Venison sausages - Andy is a wonderful chef.

Very rough overnight

Friday

The brightly painted harbour of Tobermory is an attractive town with a reasonable selection of shops and pubs and the setting for a children's programme.  "What's the story in Balamory".

We climbed aboard the dingy for a rough ride but were rewarded with good showers, shopping and coffee.  Left Tobermory at 13.30 and sailed all the way to Loch Aline.

2nd reef, half gen. 1 degree Excellent.

At Lochaline, just off the Sound of Mull, we stopped at the new pontoon and a short walk past the old sand mine took us to a delicious dinner at Lochaline Hotel.

Saturday
Left Loch Aline marina at 09.10.  "Buoy overboard" but Phil and Andy quickly retrieved it.
The weather forecast report was currently five, going to six, then seven.  BIG SEAS.
We were glad of the foul weather gear.  The sea was very rough and rough seas means water everywhere.

Good spirits though and no-one ill.  We motored to Lochbernary, Lismore and dropped anchor at 12.50 to shelter in Bernera Bay and have lunch.  Clive enjoyed looking at Achadun Castle ruins
just a short distance away.

At 16.10 we left for the last dash home and arrived, wet but happy and relieved at 18.10.

Only another 500 miles and we will be home!

A great holiday with good friends.

Zuiderdam Cruise Inside Passage to Alaska

Thursday, May 24th

Arrived in Vancouver to glorious weather.  Stayed at the Renaissance Hotel with a fabulous view of the harbour with it's backdrop of the Coast Mountain range, dusted with snow.  Vancouver is among the most beautifully located metropolises on earth.  Directly in front of our balcony were the pontooned floatplanes.  Great fun watching them take off and land virtually every five minutes.  I am sure Phil wanted to take the controls.  He did wear his floatplane hat.

We went for a lovely walk along the promenade with a terrific view of the harbour.

Friday, May 25th

Very energetic day.  Up early due to time change so set off for Stanley Park and walked the six mile paved path ringing the park with it's unimpeded views of English Bay and Burrard Inlet.  Saw the sculpture Girl in a Wetsuit on an offshore rock.

and a collection of Totem Poles.
Had a wonderful lunch at Corderos on the promenade.  Lovely summers day so asked for a table on the terrace overlooking some expensive "gin palaces".  Waited at the bar until our table was ready.  They ring a bell and then hoist the nautical flag you have been given.  Novel.

Saturday, May 26th

Up early again and watched our cruise boat the Zuiderdamm sail in at 6.30 a.m.

At 11 a.m. we checked out and made our way to the Cruise Ship Terminal at Canada Place.
We walked along the promenade for a close up view of our ship being prepared for our arrival.  Canada Place is a Vancouver landmark.  The roof's sail-like lines echo Canada's nautical roots and the "prow" extends well into the harbour.  Boarded at noon to our fabulous aft suite 5191 with wrap-around balcony.  Luxury, thank you Phil and happy birthday.

We spent on enjoyable afternoon in the sun watching the mesmerizing buzz of activity.
Floatplanes pulling themselves heavily into the sky and boats of all shapes and sizes criss-cross the spectacular mountain-backed harbour.

We set sail at 5 p.m. Sydney will disagree, Rio too, and San Francisco might demur, but it's hard to think of a city more beautiful than Vancouver when the sun shines.  Set between ocean and mountain, the city is scenically unrivalled, the waters of the Pacific bounding the downtown core, the peaks of the Coast Mountains rearing majestically in the near distance and the brilliant sun shining.  Off to eat now and then cocktails with the Captain.

Sunday, May 27th

Day 2 - At Sea.  Partly cloudy. 48 F / 9C

This way, that way, Portside, Starboard.  Saw a bear on the portside after running from the starboard side and five Orcas on the starboard side after running from the portside.

Formal evening tonight so we got dressed up but still didn't make the show - too jet lagged.  Sat with a lovely couple from Liverpool at dinner.

Very rough at sea overnight.

Monday, May 28th - Day 3

Sailed to Juneau and arrived 1 p.m.  Saw a humpback, orcas and dolphins on way.

Phil had dug deep and we set off to dog sled on the Mendenhall Glacier.  We had our special glacier boots on and were ready to go when the clouds came in and it was cancelled.  Too dangerous for a helicopter.  Very disappointing.  At least we got to drive thro' Juneau and with four ships in town and about 5,000 plus people we decided to go back to the boat and see if another trip was available.  We decided on the 5 Glacier Seaplane Exploration at 5 p.m.  Turned up to discover it was overbooked!  Too bad.  By now it is pouring with rain so we felt we had had a lucky escape as vis was bad.  Quickly headed back to the ship for happy hour ( 4 - 5 p.m) and drowned our sorrows.  Saw lots of Bald Eagles though in Juneau.

Tuesday, May 29th - Day 4

Went to bed last night before we left Juneau and woke at 6 a.m. to find we had already docked in Skagway.

Skagway is more attractive than Juneau.  Went for a walk along Boardway.  They try to keep the Gold Rush past alive here.  Skagway means "windy place".  Watched the White Pass Railroad depart from the Docks.

 

We then went on the Haines Eagle Preserve Float Adventure.  We sailed on the local ferry, Fairweather, captained by an attractive female who kindly pointed out mountain goats and eagles for us to see.  Haines boasts dramatic scenery and we floated on the Chilkat river for about 90 minutes.

The Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve is a 48,000 acre haven for the majestic birds.  In late autumn, the river flats become a buffet table for the world's largest gathering of eagles - about 4,000 which feast on the seasonal chum salmon run.  But we only saw ONE!

Wednesday, 30th May - Day 5 - Glacier Bay

Up very early to enjoy the rare beauty of this natural phenomenon.  The National Park Ranger Randy boarded at 6.15 a.m. and we went for the talk at 7.30 a.m.  In order to have the richest experience only two cruise ships are allowed in each day.  We arrived at Gloomy Knob at 8 a.m. and then travelled up the west side of Glacier Bay getting a good view of Reid Inlet (our first glacier).

Next to the north is the entrance to John Hopkins Glacier, very active in recent years and the outgoing stream of ice is often so thick that ships do not enter.  Our Captain decided the ice was too thick and did not want to damage the paintwork.

All day it poured with rain but lots of intrepid souls stood out on deck - us included.

Bitterly cold.

We then travelled up to Margerie Glacier.

Got really close to the Glacier and stayed for one hour waiting for signs of calving.  This is when bits of ice break off.  We were lucky enough to see more than four.

The Captain rotated the ship and we were able to stand on our balcony in total silence and watch the Glacier.  Awesome!

On leaving Glacier Bay we saw lots of humpback whales in the North Inian Pass.

Very rough at sea tonight.  Force 9 Gale!

Arrived in Ketchikan at 10 a.m.  Walked into town to visit the Creek St. Historic District.  Alaska's most notorious red-light district from1902 to 1954. Today the old houses built on a zigzagging boardwalk on pilings above Ketchikan Creek are lovely little shops.

We then went on the Misty Fjords Boat and Floatplane Adventure.

We sailed to Rudyard Bay, a relaxed 2 and half hour cruise

and saw Killer Whales (Sea Wolves) and lots of Bald Eagles on the way.

We then flew out in a seaplane.  This was a wise choice, allowing us to see the dramatic marine seascape in one direction and then getting up up for a higher vista on the other leg.

The view of Misty Fjords from a seaplane (De Hav. Otter) was truly spectacular.  Great landing next to our ship.

The Bald Eagle has landed and seen it all before.

Day 7 - at sea.  Friday, 1st June

Off to the Pinnacle Grill for lunch by private invitation with the Captain.

Distance so far 1,722 n.m.

Speed 13.6 kts

Sea State 5 (rough)

Final thoughts

I have to be honest and say a cruise wasn't necessarily our first holiday choice, we just thought if we are going to do a cruise we want it to be somewhere where there is a reason to do a cruise.  What impressed us was that all the places we went to in Alaska are accessible only by seaplane or boat.  Alaska is a very remote area.  Enjoying Alaska's natural wonders it's hard not to be amazed as you cruise into wilderness areas such as Glacier Bay because they are so spectacular.  It's absolutely beautiful.  The highlights were the glaciers and the whale-watching.  The ship sails right up to the wall of the glacier and you sit there watching large blocks of ice breaking off- calving it's called, and it's just stunning. And I was surprised how excited I was to see the killer whales, they are brilliant.  Watching them popping out of the sea was really quite emotional.