If there's one place that's synonymous with boat-messing, it's the Broads. The words of a certain Rat come to mind:
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
So we packed the picnic basket, grabbed the suncream (and, to be on the safe side, a towel) and headed to Martham Boats. In our opinion the only thing spoiling the atmosphere (and scaring away the wild life) is that endless chugging of an engine. So we ditched it and did the Broads the old-fashioned way, under sail in a half decker.
We were given no instructions except turn left, then right and you'll be fine on Hickling Broad in a broad Norfolk accent from the boatkeeper.
Our boat was called Jaylene - an open boat with just a small compartment in the fore of the boat and another small compartment at the stern. She was over 22 foot long with what seemed to be an extraordinarily large gunter rigged main sail and a tiny jib.
So there we were sailing away with no idea were we were going! But perhaps that is the best way to travel!
Sailing on the Broads holds many delights - the reed beds that line the side of the waterway or the trees, the glimpse of a church in the distance and the heron that stands aloof.
On the water we admired the many beautiful traditional sailing craft and despised the ugly functional motorboats. There is something quite exhilarating and satisfying about using the wind alone to propel oneself through the water.
Sailing boats give the impression of being organic because they work with nature rather than attempt to control nature via brutish engines.
Our little boat had no motor to get us out of trouble or to speed us to our home berth, but relied entirely on the wind and our ability to handle the sails to get where we wanted. Would we ever get back though?
There were many highlights of the sail, some of them unplanned. We managed to crash into the reeds on a turn and bits of foliage decorated the boat for a while.
Jaylene seemed to take it all in her stride. We also managed to run aground twice, once near a beach, and on a reed bed when Phil mis-timed a tack and the wind blew us firmly onto the vegetation. We managed to extricate ourselves though with brute force and paddles.
When the wind picked up the old gal would lift her skirts and run and in the stiff breeze she was an exhilarating sail. We managed to sail her directly on to a mooring for a delightful picnic with only a grass snake and black swan for company.
We then retraced our steps down the narrow part of the Broad, turned around and had a second go, which earlier in the day had almost defeated us. We had learned that Jalyene had the advantage of being able to turn tightly through a tack.
This time it was easy. There is something very satisfying about being able to sail with skill and precision in close quarters.
We eventually returned to the boatyard where we sailed straight on to the mooring and packed her up tight for the night.
On the way home to Barnham Broom we reflected on what a super day we had had and wondered who would be sailing Jaylene the following day. The trouble with boats is that you can get very attached to them, especially if you've had a super sail!
