Sun filled November in La Gomera

It was November.  We were little more than a day's travel from wet-and-windy London and just 50 minutes by ferry from the egg-box apartment resorts of southern Tenerife.

The transfer is like a little round island  trip.  We go up and up the mountains.  After 45 minutes, we reach the little fishing port of  Playa de Santiago.  HPBs El Balcon de Santa Ana is spectacularly located on a giant rock, just stunning, with mesmerising views across to Tenerife's Mount Teide.  It's also  La Gomera's sunniest spot.  The resort is a haven of tranquillity.

It probably isn't for you if: you want a quick week in the sun, with easy transfers and you also wouldn't like it if you want big shops and amusement parks and other man-made attractions. Oh, and you wouldn't want to be scared of heights, have vertigo or be fearful on buses which whizz around narrow roads with sheer drops and dark tunnels. 

We began this latest visit, lapping up the luxury of breakfasting on our gorgeous balcony with an awesome view of palm trees and the Atlantic.  Take a deep breath. The sun is shining, it is still warm  in November. ( In fact the temperatures were very high due to the Calima, a phenomenon characterised by dust from the Sahara Desert).  Abundant gardens with wonderful palm trees, mixed with fantastic sea views.  Nature can make you so happy!  After breakfast we explored.  There are staircases all over the place to keep you fit.  What an excellent workout for legs and bottom!!!

Talking about walking, it is a 20 minute walk to "downtown" Playa de Santiago with it's dark pebbly beach.  There is a cute promenade along the beach with some cafes and restaurants.

We always head for Restaurante La Marea for fabulous fish.  You can sit inside or out but you need to book as it is very popular. (Actually only remembered to take a photo once I had started to eat it - couldn't wait!).

And right on the beach at the far end from the port is La Chalana. Don't be fooled by its shabby appearance.  This is a great place for an informal lunch on the beach.

  Another favourite of ours is Tasca Enyesque.  Amazing food.  Don't be offput by the size nor that the outside seating is on the pavement - the food is well worth it - tuna was amazing. 

Restaurante Kuss is located at the western end of Playa Santiago promenade, with views over the beach and harbour with some tables on the elevated terrace, particularly nice if you can book one.  Food is an interesting mix of local cuisine and Asian influences, with an emphasis on seafood.  Wines are good and sensibly priced.

Next door is Don Tomate.  Great as long as you stick to what they are good at.  Pizzas at lunchtime.  The location is perfect for a sunny day overlooking the beach.  Can get extremely busy at night.

The only Michelin stars you'll find  here will be on the bus tyres.  Don't be afraid to go into the most uninviting-looking bar because you will be welcomed and well fed.

On the little square, the locals sip coffee and have a chat, just next to a very small supermarket.  And that's all there is of Playa Santiago.  It's 6 euros for a taxi drive home.

Back at El Balcon the dinners in the restaurant were pretty good too.  Make sure you reserve your table in advance by the website.  Can recommend the Paella in the Shearwater by the pool.

 I  really enjoyed the stretching classes with Agneski  in the garden overlooking the sea and also her  aqua-aerobics.

And after all that exercise Elizabetta's one hour massage was excellent.

Time for the ferry to Valle Gran Rey.  The Benchi Express is a very modern boat which also belongs to Fred Olsen.  It departs at 11.20 a.m. from the harbour and leaves Valle Gran Rey for the return at 4 pm.  (Don't be late).   It's perfect for a day trip.  We sat outside and observed bizarre rocks on the journey.  If you visit the local tourist office at Valle Gran Rey they'll tell you it was named after the Big King who once lived in this valley - but we know better.  We reckon it was named after the local Stingrays.  We first heard about the rays from one of our friends who told us huge rays lived in the harbour.  The rays seem to like to be near the beach in the port.  As soon as we arrived in Valle Gran Rey (noon) we went looking for them and sure enough we could see the huge diamond shapes swimming under the dinghies alongside the wall.  We looked again at 3.30 p.m. but they had gone.

Whilst in Valle Gran Rey we had a delightful fish meal at El Puerto.  As the name implies it is right by the port and fish features strongly on the menu.  Lots of outdoor seating which we availed ourselves of.  Service was excellent as was the fish.  

We asked Valentin, the DJ, for a bespoke tour, requesting a must-have stop for lunch which he incorporated.  He then added some amazing visits en route to places you would never find yourself.

La Gomera is more or less circular, it is also extremely mountainous so expect vertiginous drops and fabulous views, with deserted valleys such as Erque and Erquito.  Our first stop with Valentin.  So glad he was driving. Erquito is a small abandoned settlement, accessible via a small paved road between Igualero and Chipude, along one of the island's deepest and most impressive gorges.  This area, inhabited as early as the 18th century, was isolated from the rest of the island, and the population was forced to take care of themselves.  Meanwhile, however, the valley is largely abandoned, individual houses are being renovated again and inhabited in the summer as a holiday home.

The very well-kept Ermita is located at the entrance.

The next stop was for coffee at Chipude.  What a lovely spot, this charming old, family run cafe/restaurant sits in, looking across the valley in a world that time forgot.  Good coffee too.

A handicraft museum was the next stop, Centro de Interpretacion - Las Loceras.  Learning about the history behind the handmade pottery from La Gomera was absolutely fascinating - and the fact that they do it without the use of a spinning pottery wheel makes it that much more incredible.  It is completely worth a trip here.  You won't  be disappointed.

On a previous tour with Valentin he had taken us to the Prisma Restaurant on the remote seafront at Playa Alojera.  The outdoor seating is along the steps leading to and from the beach and seafront, really picturesque.  It's an amazing, hidden gem.  Fresh seafood, the Bocinegro fish was excellent.  Really good, authentic food and laid back atmosphere at really affordable prices.  Absolutely the hidden gem of La Gomera.

Another museum after lunch, Casa de la Miel de Palma.  A small, intimate and educational museum on the history of palm honey production on La Gomera.  It is a beautiful place where you learn all about the palm trees on the island.  It's amazing how a single plant can have so many uses.

 An amazing day out, Valentin is so knowledgeable and friendly. ( VSV Tours.  Tel +34 616 768 322   vsvtours@gmail.com   www.vsvtours.com).

The staff are wonderful at El Balcon, good humour is always prevalent with a genuine willingness to go the extra mile.  Thank you for looking after us so well.  See you next year.

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas.......

A Scary Birthday

 Chloe's birthday is during half term, close to Halloween, so we visited Flip Out in Poole. 

 Jamie and Chloe had great fun.

Roller skating, trikes, football, bumper cars and laser tag were their favourite activities.

The next day we visited Exbury Gardens and, once again, the gardens were filled with the screams of unsuspecting victims aboard the infamous Ghost Train.

We met some interesting characters on the fantastic Gruesome Garden trail featuring a spooky spider's lair, witches' den and haunted graveyard.

And it just wouldn't be Halloween without a spooky pumpkin.

Happy 13th Birthday Chloe.  You are now officially a teenager.

Behind you all your memories

Before you all your dreams

Around you all who love you.

Within you all the need.

Making the world a better place since 2011.

Under the Portuguese sun

Mykonos may be alluring, Ibiza tantalizing and St. Tropez may have the ultimate swagger but Portugal has been my port of call this year.  And the light: at sunrise, it's luminescent with shades of cotton candy and at sunset, it dissolves listlessly into a canvas of tangerine.

I may not be a creature of habit but this year I spent August in the Algarve, September on the Douro and  October back to the Algarve.  It's a mere two and half hours from London, summer perfection is guaranteed and it truly has the most spectacular beaches in Europe.  A canvas of whitewashed towns and villages, scented orange groves, rugged, russet coastline and biscuit-coloured sands.  Rocha Brava is our sunny perch for this holiday.

The Algarve has 200 km of drop dead gorgeous beaches, coves and cliffs.  It's the Atlantic here so the sea is bracing.  We wake early on our first morning and wander over to the closest beach at Centianes, a picture-perfect spot when the tide is low.  I settle down and gaze out to sea and a movement in the water catches my eye.  We were treated to the sight of a large pod of  dolphins, jumping out of the water, just metres from the shore. It was a truly amazing sight.

We had booked a table for our Sunday lunch at 'O Stop'.  Delicious.

Unfortunately, the next day it was raining and the BBQ at the Clubhouse was cancelled.  Even Mary had her flight cancelled because of the rain.  Did you know Rocha  Brava keep falcons.  They're incredible allies, helping to keep the resort calm and harmonious by chasing away persistent seagulls.  A natural and fascinating way to preserve our slice of paradise.

So we decided to have a day out and headed to Mt. Foia. Something I love about Portugal is how many storks it has just casually nesting in the most unlikely places.  We drive through Rasmalho (Stork City) at about 10 a.m.  It is on the left side of  the N266 about 2 km after Silves turnoff.  If you reach the village of Rasmalho, you have gone too far.  There is likely to be a few cars pulled over, by a garage, so that folks can snap photos.  There are GINORMOUS stork nests, complete with storks flapping about.  The storks you see in the Algarve are White Storks and they are absolutely huge, hence the whopping nests.  If you've never seen a stork in real life, be prepared for the sky to darken as they fly over you like a small aircraft.  Their wingspan is up to 215cm (thanks, Wikipedia).  And they make a very distinct clattering noise, which sounds like machinery starting up.  Something has to power that wingspan I suppose.

The drive up to Mt. Foia from Monchique is not for the faint hearted but it is worth it when you get to the top.  Takes about 15 mins from Monchique.  Breathtaking views despite the obligatory radio masts.  There is a 7km walk if you are feeling energetic.  This is the highest point of the Algarve at nearly 3000ft above sea level.  Although the weather was overcast it was possible to see from the bay of Portimao to the Sagres peninsula.  Spectacular!

Our bellies grumbled so on our way down we stopped for lunch at A Rampo.  Service from the South African lady was excellent.  A rustic restaurant, very basic, but with fantastic views, and excellent piri piri chicken.  She also recommended Alfarroba for a dessert.  I'm a chocolate lover.  I'm also a fig lover and I've now discovered that chocolate and fig had a love child, and its name is Alfarroba. For those of you unfamiliar with carob (alfarroba), it's the dark and mysterious-looking seed pod that comes from the alfarrobeira (caroba tree).  This restaurant is a hidden gem.

We return home via Alferce and the Dam (Barragem de Odelouca).  The scenery was beautiful with eucalyptus, cork and pine trees covering the hills.

Nothing to watch on the TV that evening so we popped in to the cafe at Rocha Brava for the odd drink (or three!).  Fantastic live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.  Great atmosphere.

Another beach day.  Drove to  Praia Grande near Ferragudo, just a ten minute drive from Rocha Brava.  A sheltered rather hidden treasure for either a quiet walk in winter or sunning yourself in the summer. A lovely very large sandy riverside beach, without seaweed, and the water seems to be generally calm.  No waves like the more ocean oriented beaches so it's more family and child friendly here.  Views of Portimao Marina.  The Praia Grande Panoramic Restaurant is a wonderful place to have lunch.  We always reserve to get a table with a front line view.  Enjoyed watching the high performance hydrofoiling kiteracing.

That evening we visit the Sky Bar at the Tivoli, Carvoeiro.  The magical sunset view from the rooftop of the Tivoli Hotel is not to be missed.  You don't need a reservation and can rock up at any time during the afternoon or evening, but it's best to get there a little earlier so you can get one of the sofa seats with the best views.  From the bar, you'll have gorgeous sea views over a cove and the cliffs.  The cocktails are good too.

The next day was a wild rainy day and from the balcony we could hear a thunderous whoosing sound.  We discovered there is a blow hole which can be accessed and seen via the Atlantic gate just down from the cliff top pool at Rocha Brava.  It came alive every 30 seconds with a tremendous roar and thunderous air blowing.  Just seawater pressure.  Amazing.

The remnants of  hurricane Kirk are still hanging about so we decide to head to Faro.  Quite difficult to park but we found a spot by the railway station.  (Decided on our next visit we must take the train to Vila Real de Santo Antonio for lunch and to wave at Spain).  I'm in full tour guide mode here.....

One of the first things to do in Faro when you arrive is to walk the length of the palm-tree-lined marina.  The place is bustling with both tourists and locals, and there are plenty of places to stop for a drink or lunch.

While you're walking around Faro's marina, it's worth calling in at the Maritime Museum.  It's up on the first floor in the Port Authority building and isn't that obvious from the outside.  The museum goes through all the marine species in the area, such as sardine, tuna and squid.  There are also some model ships and fishing equipment.  It's only small but it gives you an idea of how life in the Algarve revolved around the fishing industry, shipbuilding and navigation before it became a tourist destination.  And it's free to get in, so definitely worth a mooch round; it should only take 15 minutes maximum.

We tried to find Faro's answer to Copenhagen's Little Mermaid statue but without success.  She apparently had a shell for a head so I think this must be all that is left of her.

Who doesn't love posing with some giant letters spelling out the name of the city or town they're in?  You'll find Faro's sign in the marina, complete with a small queue of tourists waiting their turn.

Faro's old town is encircled by thick stone walls.  For many years, most of the inhabitants lived within the walls to protect them from sea raiders.  Sadly the entrance is being renovated at the moment.

The small Paco Episcopal de Faro (Bishop's Palace) is behind the orange trees in the old town's main square.  You would assume it was offices or something from the outside.  There's no big sign or anything to beckon tourists in.  There is a small charge to get in.  The palace dates back to 1585, although it's been destroyed and rebuilt since.  It was used as a training centre for priests.  I know, I know, this sounds painful.  Even if you're into your bishops through the ages, there are only two rooms inside and it'd probably take ten minutes maximum to complete.  But you should 100% go in to see the breathtaking azulejo tiles going up the staircase.  These are worth the entrance fee alone. 

The Cathedral of Santa Maria is in the heart of the old town, set in a large, orange-tree-lined square (sadly turned into a carpark, which ruins the prettiness).  Small charge to enter.

Santa Maria has a stone bell tower you can haul yourself up, involving not very many stairs at all TBH, considering the reward at the end is an excellent view over Faro and out to the lagoon.  Watch out if you're up there on the hour, though, because the bell is LOUD.

If you've been anywhere in Portugal, you'll be familiar with its tiled streets.  I love them (other than when it's raining and they become slippery and mildly lethal).  Faro has some exceptional ones, but you should also look up....Overhead, the main shopping streets in Faro have big white canopies hung like the sails of a ship, creating some very welcome shade in the summer heat.

We walk to see the bone chapel at the beautiful Igreja do Carmo (check times of opening).  Although there are a few places around Europe where you can see chapels made of bones like this, it's still an unusual experience and not to be missed while you're in Faro, even if you find it a bit macabre and creepy.  The bone chapel is a small building around the back of the Igreja do Carmo, the main church, which dates back to 1719.  This is known for being one of the most picturesque churches in the Algarve: a Baroque-style building with an impressively tiled square leading up to it.  Its interior is full of lovely golden gilded altars and ornate woodwork.  The church was badly damaged in Faro's 1755 earthquake and had to be reconstructed.  Apparently, the repair works took over 100 years!

Anyway, to get to the bone chapel, you have to walk through a colourful little garden, accessed via a door at the side of the altar.  There may be a small queue of people waiting to duck inside.  I'd recommend waiting until it's empty if you have time, so you can appreciate the full extent of the bones and skulls of over 1,200 monks without people in the way.  The bones are all displayed in geometric patterns covering the walls and ceiling.  The idea is to remind people of how short life is.  I prefer wallpaper for interior decor, personally, but it's very striking.

 

It's Saturday, the maids are coming - we need to vacate the apartment - and the weather is still a little unsettled so we decide to visit Praia da Rocha in Portimao.  From the beach at Praia da Grande we had watched people walk out to the Lighthouse.  It's easy to park at the Marina.  We strolled along the long wooden boardwalk following the beach for a nice, easy walk next to the beach.  There are several nice restaurants on the boardwalk where you can get something to eat or drink if it starts to rain.  Located above the beach's western end is the Tres Castelos Viewpoint (viewpoint of the Three Castles).  The name of this beach comes from the three large rocks in the water that represent three castles.

At the eastern end we walked to the lighthouse along the well constructed harbour wall and then looked at the expensive boats in the Marina.

Enjoyed delicious Sardines for lunch at Atlantico Restaurant.  Then walked back along the boardwalk to another restaurant for dessert and coffee.  Brigadeiro Cake - very good.

 And so lovely to return to a beautifully clean apartment.  The maids do work hard.

The boardwalk in Carvoeiro is spectacular, the views and rock formations are amazing.  There is parking near Algar Seco.  And a really wonderful spot to watch the sunset, with a cocktail of course, is the Bonica Bar.

We also like to walk the boardwalk to Carvoeiro for lunch at Restaurante O Barco.  A great fish restaurant with a sea view.  Perfect position next to the beach and very reasonably priced.

Another day, another adventure.  We set off to the wild west coast and the town of Aljezur, with its castle, and then followed the road signs to Praia de Odeceixe.  Voted one of the "7 Wonders - Beaches of Portugal".  What a stunning setting.  Dramatic waves crashing to shore around a horseshoe bay.  A surf school braving the waves was fun to watch.

We then retraced our steps to Aljezur and took the turning to Praia Monte do Clerigo for lunch at O Sargo.  The setting is amazing.  The beach is breathtaking and the location of the restaurant terrace allows you to take it all in - while being sheltered behind plexiglass window barriers.  Place is always busy so best to book.

Our last day.  We have to visit the beach at Benagil to watch the chaos of all the boats visiting the famous cave.  Great entertainment.

Well, with our limbs browned, my hair a shade lighter and our lungs filled with sea air, it's sadly time to pack.  Just time for one last meal at the Pashmina Restaurant.  I had to wear my Pashmina!  Excellent tandoori.

We have had another wonderful holiday in Portugal.  Ate logo e forca Portugal.