En route to Manoir du Hilguy in Brittany we "pushed the boat out" and decided to travel in a Commodore cabin on the new Brittany ferry - St.Malo - from Portsmouth on our outbound journey to Saint Malo.
The boarding procedure was extremely simple and straightforward - it was just a matter of handing over our passports to be given a cabin key card and hanging up a number to be displayed on the car's mirror. We then drove through passport control - the only thing we had to do was wind down our windows and remove our sunglasses. After being directed into the correct lane and parking bay it was simply a case of switching off the engine, grabbing the bags we wanted and heading inside to find our cabin.
What appealed to us about sailing on the St. Malo was that we would be starting our French adventure in the region of Brittany, it made sense to cross the channel overnight and wake up refreshed at our destination. There was also the added excitement of sleeping on board a ship. Our cabin was very stylish with high quality bedding, a large porthole window and Phytomer toiletries and soft towels in the en-suite. We enjoyed a very comfortable nights sleep and woke up to the dulcet tones of classical music. Breakfast was complimentary in the 8 Tresors lounge so we were ready to explore Saint-Malo early.
Saint-Malo was originally built as a walled citadel guarding the mouth of the Rance river and was for centuries home to feared pirates. They've all gone to Davy Jones' Locker though and now it's Brittany's most visited city. One of the things you must do is to take a walk on the ramparts, the walls that surround the old town with magnificent sea views. Arriving early we were able to park in front of the old town gate.
We then set off for our destination, HPB's Manoir du Hilguy nestling in the crook of a small Breton valley, near the village of Plogastel St. Germain. We found the roads in Brittany to be well-maintained and not overly busy. Many of the highways are two-lanes, making our road trip relatively stress-free. It was an easy drive on roads in excellent condition (no potholes and no litter!) and we enjoyed the scenic views especially with our GPS guiding us. It took us four and a half hours but we stopped for a leisurely lunch (2 hours) at L'Auberge de Guerledan in Caurel just off the N164 near Gouarec and enjoyed the Plat du Jour 17.50 euros with wine. Best to book 02 96 26 35 16.
"Violence returned to the area with the Second World War. The Resistance developed early in Brittany. The first Free French emissary landed in December 1940, and thereafter acts of sabotage, and executions, multiplied. One agent with the British SAS, was Jacques Pinte, husband of the future owner of Hilguy. He was eventually captured and spent the final months of the war in a concentration camp. Madame Yannic, widow of M. le Coq's maitre d'hotel, remembered the Germans arriving at Hilguy by motor-cycle in 1940, and how for four years frequently changing detachments of about 10 officers were billeted there. They were generally respectful to the local population, and bartered bread for the eggs produced by Mme Yannic's chickens. Things became less amicable in August 1944 when the Germans were ordered to abandon the position. The last of their baggage was put in a barn guarded by a single soldier, who not surprisingly disappeared. Troops sent to investigate found a freshly dug patch of ground on the estate, but when the farmer was made to dig it up again, he exhumed only the corpse of a calf. The Germans rampaged about the property, threatening to burn the Manoir if they found the body. To emphasise the threat they fired into the empty building, where a mirror, in what is now the apartment Corneille, shows the bullet holes (pictured above). Their fears for their man were well founded. He had been shot by the Resistance, and the body buried nearby at Le Hinguer, where luckily it was not discovered."
We enjoyed Aperitifs with Sabine one evening followed by a game of Petanque in front of Le Manoir and Saturday night has happy hour where we met some lovely guests. Also do not miss the DZ Eire Concert - Celtic music.
I used the indoor swimming pool every day and even did Aqua gym in French with the local ladies from the village who were very friendly. Also enjoyed Aqua aerobics with David.
And so to explore Brittany. Less than half an hour to the north is the fishing port of Douarnenez, once the premier sardine port of France. We arrived at 10 a.m., easy to park right in front of the Port-Musee. The Museum is divided into two parts: one inside, the other outside on several boats. Gave us an appreciation of what life was like on a working boat.
The Port-Rhu is a delightful area to wander.
We were lucky enough to be able to access Tristan Island on foot at low tide. It is only accessible for a couple of hours a day when the tide is out and you can see the causeway. interesting to watch how the tides work around Ile Tristan.
For lunch we stopped at L'Amuse-Louche on Quai du Port Rhu by the museum. The service was very friendly and the food was excellent.
We were blessed with perfect weather, and the skies were a shade of blue that I now like to refer to as "Brittany blue". While there are those who say the weather is horrible in Brittany, I beg to differ. There is nothing quite like that bright blue Brittany sky.
The following day we drove south on La Route du Vent Solaire. (map at reception). Named after the work of Pierre Jakez Helias, a writer from the Pays Bigouden. We drove past his house in Pouldreuzic on our way to Penhors. The Vent Solaire route is like the wind: it often changes direction.
Penhors is a lovely place to visit and take a stroll. Easy parking and spectacular scenery.
Our next stop was in Plovan at the ruins of the Chapelle du Languidon. It's out of the way but this old ruin retains a wonderful sense of peace and tranquility. The rose window is still intact.
We continued to La Torche. Don't miss the intricately carved calvary at Tronoen Chapel, the oldest of the seven great calvaries of Brittany.
La Pointe de la Torche is an immense stretch of sand, a true paradise for surfers. It was even a strong contender against Tahiti to host the surfing events for the Paris 2024 Olympics.
Lunch was at Le Rayon Vert Cafe. I loved this restaurant. Sitting outside in the sun eating golden sun mussels and drinking cider.
After lunch we drove to the lighthouse at Penmarch, Phare D'Eckmyhl. Built in 1890 and still functioning, the lighthouse dwarfs its adjacent, inferior, predecessor. You can climb it if you like: 307 steps - we didn't!!! We did however visit the lifeboat museum.
It was then on to Guilvinec where we visited Haliotika. There is a free outdoor terrace offering a breathtaking view of the arrival of boats and the unloading of the fish at 3.30 p.m. I enjoyed watching this spectacle. Wriggling prawns, monk fish, scarlet rock fish..... An absolute must see!
We enjoyed crepes from Creperie Ty Clech Audierne, overlooking the marina. Phil enjoyed a crepe with scallops whilst I had smoked salmon. We didn't know that French crepes originated in Brittany. It seems the crusaders brought buckwheat to Brittany in the 13th century. The local story goes that a local woman accidentally dropped some buckwheat dough on a hot pot and voila!. Now, how many different crepes can there be? As many as you can imagine! Salty or sweet, for breakfast, lunch or dinner there is a crepe for everyone.
You'll find Breton cider or apple juice is the perfect accompaniment to a crepe, but don't be surprised if your cider comes in a traditional pottery bowl or bol.
Is Pont-l'Abbe worth a visit? We wanted to visit the museum which showcases the traditional Bigouden costumes but unfortunately it was closed but the Les Halles market was interesting offering a wide variety of fresh produce, seafood, baked goods and Breton specialities. The Notre-Dame des Carmes Church features stunning stained glass windows.
A short drive away is the little port of Sainte Marine. The view from this little port is absolutely magnificent. You must go for lunch. You'll see the constant movement of boats and you can also make out Benodet across the water. After lunch we crossed over the iconic Cornouaille Bridge that spans the River Odet at 70 metres, (there is also a water taxi known as Le P'tit Bac that will take you to Benodet for 2 euros each) to enjoy an ice cream on the wide esplanade framed by statuesque pine trees overlooking the beach. Benodet has a chic, south-of-France feel about it.
The Closed City of Concarneau was our next port of call the following day. Concarneau is a historic walled island town with ramparts dating back to the Middle Ages. The town, fortified in the 14th century and later modified by architect Vauban, is situated on a small island connected by a stone footbridge. We strolled along the ramparts, taking in the panoramic views of the bay, fishing and yachting ports. The city's cobbled streets are lined with half-timbered houses and there are numerous shops to explore.
For lunch we drove via Neves to Port Manec'h and lunched at La Chataigneraie restaurant. An idyllic setting, wonderful service and delicious cuisine. The pretty cove with its bathing huts is like a picture postcard.
After lunch we drove to Pont-Aven, well known as a haven for artists. We called in at the tourist office and we were given a map recommending a gentle stroll along the riverside. It's not surprising that Pont-Aven was the inspiration for so many works of art; the town is a delightful collection of thatched cottages, watermills and has over 20 waterfalls roaring along the River Aven.
The next day we decided to return to Dournenez on a high tide. (We also enjoyed another meal at L'Amuse-Louche). There are two harbours available in Dournenez, and they are called Treboul Harbour and the Port-Rhu basin. Treboul Harbour is accessible at all tide levels. The Port-Rhu basin is accessible two hours before and after high tide. We were lucky enough to watch the pedestrian bridge being raised to allow a boat to pass through. Amazing to watch the spectacle of tides here.
After lunch we drove the short distance to Locronan. I had long wanted to visit Locronan, a town that dates back 2,000 years, and is rich in Celtic history and lore. Whenever I saw photos of Locronan, I was drawn to its old, grey granite buildings. I knew I would love it once I finally got there. However, as we entered the town, we came upon a Medieval Fayre. It was so busy. At first we were disappointed, but then realised it simply meant that we would have to come back and visit another time and in the meanwhile enjoy the festivities.
Seventeen kms to the east of Hilguy lies Quimper. The 75m high twin towers of the Cathedral of St. Corentin with their delicate stonework dominate the centre of town and are surrounded by beautiful medieval half-timbered houses so the whole is very harmonious. Inside the Cathedral has a peculiarity: the nave is....crooked! One account says that the bend to the left was so as to avoid disturbing the older chapel which contained the tomb of Alain Canhiart, another says that it was due to avoiding marshy land. The most imaginative says that the bend is to emulate Christ lying on the crucifix with his head on one side. Take your pick!
This little patisserie seemed to have been taken out of a storybook...
We returned a couple of days later to the Renaissance Gem of Locronan. It feels like stepping through a portal to another era. The village's impeccably preserved granite buildings form what many consider France's most authentic medieval square. Unlike many historic sites that have been heavily restored, Locronan's architecture remains genuinely intact - so authentic that filmakers flock here, with Roman Polanski's "Tess" among the most famous productions shot in it's time-frozen streets.
The church stands as testament to the immense wealth this small community once possessed through its sailcloth industry, which supplied material for ships in the French Royal Navy.
It is perfection for those who love taking long strolls and dozens of photographs.
I'm very happy to have visited these delightful places in la Bretagne. Whether you plan to visit Brittany in the future or prefer to be a mental traveller, I do hope that you enjoyed the above posts.
Beyond Brittany: We decided to drive home via Mont Saint-Michel. A three hour drive via the N176. It's also about one hour from St. Malo for our return ferry journey home.
When visiting Brittany, one simply must travel to nearby Normandy for a visit to Mont St. Michel. Sitting just 1 km from the mainland, it is one of France's most beloved islands.
Rising like a fairytale fortress from the sea, Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy is one of France's most breathtaking sights. Built over 1,000 years ago, this medieval abbey sits atop a rocky island, surrounded by dramatic tides. Did you know the bay experiences some of the strongest tidal shifts in the world?
The approach in itself is truly unforgettable - the town can be seen from miles away, looming out of the otherwise unbroken horizon. Visitors can reach the site itself on foot or by shuttle bus. As to what time of day to book - we left Hilguy at 8.30 a.m. and we booked the Abbey entrance for anytime between 1pm and 3pm. A pedestrian bridge with a regular bus service connects the island to the rest of the world. We walked to the island and every step offered a new perspective on the gorgeous abbey.
We stayed overnight at The Mecure Hotel, very close to the Fortress. After booking they send a code for the car parking. It all worked out really well and the room was very comfortable. We left at 8.30 am for the 10.30 am ferry departing St. Malo.
Once you get to the island, you are greeted by a tiny, winding street that leads up to the abbey. It is a good idea to get a map from the Tourist Office. Be prepared for a steep climb, by stairs or winding path. Good walking shoes are a must for these beautiful but slightly challenging cobbled streets. There are plenty of restaurants and shops to stop in for a rest along the way. The island is simply a must-see for those who enjoy architecture, history and photography. There is something breathtakingly beautiful around every corner.
For example, walking along the 15th century fortifications for incredible views of the Bay.
You only pay to enter the Abbey - it costs 13 Euros. And for 5 Euros you can do the tour with a tablet guide. This guide is excellent. It allowed us to step back in time and discover the abbey as it was in the Middle Ages. The tablets are in English and are accompanied by headphones. (An identity card is required to collect the tablet and it is recommended you book a tablet in advance. )
After entering the Abbey, more stairs await you (you are climbing a small mountain, after all!). Its grandeur is evident from the beginning, with a wide, white stone staircase leading up to the west terrace near the entrance to the Abbey. To build a grand cathedral balanced on top of the rocks required the highest skills in architecture.
The journey home from St. Malo to Portsmouth takes just over 8 hours. We didn't book a cabin this time as it was a day time sailing. We did, however, pay for access to the CClub Lounge on deck 8 which offers panoramic sea views in a stylish and comfortable space. This included complimentary hot and cold drinks, a variety of snacks and different selections of hot and cold foods provided throughout the day. It was excellent and very quiet and smooth for our crossing.
In my opinion April and May are the most perfect months to come to Brittany. The flowers cascade from the windows, the tourist season has not yet kicked in and the weather was simply divine.
More Photos to follow
