On our way to the Coo Palace we stopped overnight at Ivy House in Braithwaite. Dating back to the 18th century, this lovely dark green building spent its previous life as both a school building and a vicarage.
We stayed in 6 - Dock. A small double room, with a view towards fells, but perfectly adequate for our one night stay.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner and breakfast in the dining room which is lovely and the staff were friendly and helpful.
A beautiful sunny day so after breakfast we decided to go for a walk. We needed to look no further than Barrow Fell starting in Braithwaite.
Directions:- With the bridge behind you take the lane down the side of the village shop signposted Newlands, Buttermere. Very soon turn right up a bridleway over a cattle grid. Follow the path to the right of Braithwaite Lodge. Go ahead through a gate signposted Newlands up to a bench with a fine view towards Skiddaw. Go through a small gate, turn left and very shortly take a path on your right signposted Barrow to start the ascent proper.
The fell itself is quite steep in places but we kept stopping to turn round and admire the ever expanding views behind. As you climb the views on your left open over Newlands Valley and to Catbells. We carried on up a series of false summits!!!
As you reach the cairn marking the summit a magnificent 360 degree panorama comes into view over Bassenthwaite Lake, Whinlatter Forest, Grisedale Pike, Causey Pike, the Newlands Valley, the Helvellyn range, Derwentwater, Keswick and the Skiddaw range. Similar to Catbells with a lot less people. When Phil arrived at the summit he had it to himself. Jaw dropping views.
And so we set off for The Coo Palace, a drive of approximately 100 miles, roughly two hours.
About Coo Palace. Originally named Corseyard Farm and know now as the Coo Palace, this architecturally unusual building was built between 1911 and 1914. Erected for the Manchester businessman James Brown, it was designed in the Gothic Revival style to resemble a fortified castle. Its purpose was a Cattle Shed and it housed a herd of 12 cows. Rearing high above the whole steading is its grandest feature, the water tower with battlemented corner turrets and a smaller round tower on top. However upon completion the tower was found to be useless as a means of supplying water. It eventually fell into a state of disrepair and lay derelict until it was bought by HPB and converted into accommodation. Work was carried out on the site between 2018 and 2020, and it opened to receive guests at the start of 2020.
Within five minutes of walking in we understood why it's expensive on points, it reflects the development cost and EVERYTHING is top quality. Its just WOW, isn't it?
Dinner time! It's Thursday and the Bondholder Dinner. A "pop up" restaurant in the Club House with local hosts James and Marion Logan.
Marion is a wine expert, while James is a top chef. The emphasis is on putting the fun in fine-dining, and fine wines - with plenty of jokes along the way. Anyone heading to Coo Palace be sure to book for a convivial evening and a dinner to savour.
The next day, we went for a swim before breakfast. It's a small pool but we used it every day and mostly had it to ourselves. There is a jet so you can get a good 'long' swim without moving. It's lovely.
A trip up the tower was very interesting. Paul, one of the site guys, gave us a guided tour. Ask at reception for this.
After lunch we wandered down to the "secret beach", a comfortable walk from site and offering fabulous views out over the shore to Ardwall Island. Here you'll also find the ruins of James Brown's impressive bathing hut.
There are a wide variety of shells including the unusual "Pelican Foot" shells.
By an old slipway, which was for James Brown's personal fishing boat, and hidden to the right is a small cave with a natural chimney reputed to have been used for smuggling contraband.
Apparently much of the contraband was stored on the Isle of Man - which was independent during the 18th century - and brought in fast moving smuggling fleets to the Scottish mainland. Poet Robert Burns was amongst those trying to halt the free traders in the area after being appointed an excise man at Dumfries in 1791. At one point, the cost of tea was made up of 70% fee for the Exchequer.
Friday evening the Fish and Chip Van arrives. Fish and chips are scrummy anywhere but much better at the seaside. The fish was so fresh. We treated ourselves to fish, chips and mushy peas and sat eating them overlooking the sea.
If you fancy a lovely potter the walk from Kippford to Rockcliffe is one of the most scenic in the area with great views. We parked at Kippford Village Hall. There is a collection box for donations by the door of the hall. After walking for a few minutes you'll come across a local artist's house and garden. Strategically placed eyes make otherwise normal stones and bits of driftwood into magical beasts peeping out at you along the path.
We rounded off the walk with a lunch at The Ark, Kippford. Lovely little gem of a place. Staff super friendly and the views over the estuary perfect.
There are a series of five sculptures created by artist Matt Baker in collaboration with poet Mary Smith. These sculptures are integrated into the landscape and aim to reflect the processes that shape the area, particularly the granite formation.
Sculpture Ocean with poem. Turned inside out, upside down, ocean's floor rose into light seabed became mountain peak, rocky crags where peregrines fly and ravens cry.
Gatehouse of Fleet is a pretty little mill town, well worth spending an afternoon in. It's set on the banks of the River Fleet and surrounded by rolling hills. It's instantly recognisable in photographs with its iconic clock tower that stands tall at the end of the main road. The town used to be a hive of industry, with mills, a brewery and its own port. These days, it's quiet and peaceful. It's the kind of place you can stroll round at your own pace.
The Mill on the Fleet is the big deal in Gatehouse. As its name suggests, it's a former working cotton mill, built in 1788. It was restored by the local council in the 1980s and is now converted into a visitor centre, a great second-hand bookshop, a cafe and a pop up art shop.
You can find the original gatehouse of Gatehouse of Fleet (!) by the Murray Arms at the end of the main road. There's a plaque on the wall so you can't miss it.
This marks the spot where, back in the 18th century, the local lairds decided to make some money out of passing travellers. Rather than opening a gift shop like most people, they built a stone gait-house. 'Gait' was the old Norse word for 'road'. They built it near the bridge, where they set up a toll booth for people to cough up money for crossing the river, and a coaching inn. People travelling on the route from Dumfries to Stranraer, which is now the A75 road (no toll booths anymore!) used it as a good stopping point. This was especially handy for staying overnight to avoid travelling in the dark, when all the local bandits and highwaymen came out.
Since those days, much has changed. There are no bandits (as far as I know...) and the building is now expanded. It's now the Murray Arms pub/hotel. This is where that famous poet with good taste in pretty Scottish towns, Robert Burns, stayed when he called in at Gatehouse of Fleet in 1793. He wrote the first draft of one of his well-known poems here (Scots Wha Hae).
We decided to have Sunday lunch at the Murray Arms restaurant. The roasts we ordered, lamb and beef, were absolutely delicious. Top notch! It has been beautifully renovated and the staff were warm, friendly and efficient, inviting us to have a pre lunch drink in the wee Robert Burns lounge.
Whilst out and about in the local area you absolutely have to spot some Belted Galloway cows. Keep your eyes peeled and scan every field you pass for a glimpse of these bad boys. It is mandatory to pull over for a photo when you see some.
The Belted Galloways, or 'Belties' as they're known are the local breed of cow. I call them the "Oreo" cookie cows. They're roughly ten times prettier than your Friesian cow and although they don't have the appealing hairdo of a Highland cow, I actually prefer them. They look like they're wearing a chic white waist-belt with an otherwise all-black outfit. And that's the kind of sleek monochrome outfit any trend-setting bovine should be in.
They're also much fluffier than most cows and because they are not really seen much around the rest of the UK, it's a real treat when you find a herd of them all munching away and looking cute. You'll spot lots of Beltie memorabilia in gift shops.
On Sunday afternoon the 'wee Kirk' at Kirkandrews, where James Brown is buried, is open. A beautiful arts and crafts folly, run as a community centre by local residents. It's used for church services, lectures, wine tastings, weddings, etc., and had a display of locally produced jams and preserves and turned wood products for sale, with proceeds going towards the upkeep. Dates from 1905 or thereabouts, with original woodwork panelled walls and a wee bell. Well worth a look.
Delightful evening of music on Sunday at HPB with Heather, the flautist. Very talented.
Kirkcudbright is a wonderful wee town with beautiful pastel-coloured houses, fresh seafood, a plethora of local art and an actual castle. Like many wonderful Scottish words, it's not pronounced as it's written. It's ker-coo-bree. It is also known as the artists' town. Kirkcudbright has been home to many famous artists over the years, including the 'Glasgow boys' .
We visited the Harbour Cottage Gallery. Unsurprisingly, it's in a cottage and this cottage has the best location in town: right on the harbour. The gallery is free.
It's not often there's a castle bang in the middle of a high street. But Kirkcudbright has this photogenic chap towering over the town, complete with authentic medieval scaffolding.
Got to include a bit of National Trust action. Broughton House is the former home of 'Glasgow boy' artist E.A. Hornel. It's an amazing peachy-pink house with one of the best domestic gardens.
Inside Broughton House, you'll find some of E A's many Japanese-inspired paintings and his rooms done out as they were when he lived there. You can go down into his studio. And he had the world's largest collection of works by Robert Burns, so there's quite a bit of interesting stuff.
We then visited the Tolbooth Art Centre. The Tolbooth is the former town jail, dating back to 1629. Today, it's where you can browse yet more local art.
The Stewartry Museum is a small but very full two-floor museum in the centre of Kirkcudbright. It's full of local history and all kinds of objects.
My favourite thing about Kirkcudbright is peeping down the many little alleyways off the main streets. They always look like they'll offer nothing and just lead to some bins (and alright, some do) but if you head down them there's often a fairytale scene to be found, tucked away from most passers-by.
Kirkcudbright is full of photogenic, pastel-coloured terraced houses.
On a roll with beautiful things to feast your eyes on in Kirkcudbright, here's Jessie M King's gorgeous and colourful house. She was a famous illustrator who settled in Kirkcudbright and set up an artists' community. Her art is on display locally in the Kirkcudbright Galleries. Unfortunately, it was closed to rearrange the exhibits the day we visited.
The Selkirk Arms is bang in the centre of Kirkcudbright, so really handy for lunch.
We also enjoyed an evening meal at The Auld Alliance. It's a proper restaurant but like everywhere in the area, it's very relaxed and not dressy and has a friendly atmosphere. It does a very Scottish-themed menu, so it's perfect for anyone wanting to try the local seafood.
Carrick Shore is perfect for taking photos. The Shore is mostly sand, with a bit of shingle and some 10/10 rockpools. The small beach here is reached down the end of a track road and has a very much unspoilt feel to it. It offers excellent panoramic views of the surrounding wild and mountainous headlands and coastline especially from the Knockbrex Hill Viewpoint accessible from the beach. An easy stroll with a short climb up. I've been told there is a fictional book called 'On Carrick Shore' by Alex J. Wright. She uses Carrick Shore as a backdrop for her story set in 1781. I will have to read it.
National Trust Threave Garden and Nature Reserve. Lovely gardens well worth a visit. The estate has a couple of sites with the gardens south of the A75 and the estate with ruined castle and bird hides north. Saw three ospreys and one peregrine falcon. The gardens are wonderful with walled areas, formal sites and plenty of walking around. Decent cafe - the sandwiches are large!!!
Our visit to Coo Palace was wonderful. We met so many lovely people during our stay and they added to the magic. Its a quiet, unspoiled and ridiculously beautiful part of the UK.
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